Im after something without holes, working on woodgas rather than a hobo so a container then a container within but hard to locate suitable items for this
Hobo Stove Gallery (Probably picture heavy)
- Thread starter Wayland
- Start date
Im after something without holes, working on woodgas rather than a hobo so a container then a container within but hard to locate suitable items for this
Mine is a blatant rip off of Waylands and I've got to say they work really well, I now only switch between the hobo and my Swedish army mess kit.
Finally got round to making a hobo stove ! [ well its another shiney stainless varient !!!!]
I picked up afew things from a local store at small cost then got to work with some minor alterations , I drilled afew extra holes and fitted 4 legs keeping it off the ground ,
the billy can is a coffeee tin which came with a lid , all i did was fit a wooden "handle" and drill a small steam hole .
Also fitted stainless wire for handles on both stove and pot .
I picked up afew things from a local store at small cost then got to work with some minor alterations , I drilled afew extra holes and fitted 4 legs keeping it off the ground ,
the billy can is a coffeee tin which came with a lid , all i did was fit a wooden "handle" and drill a small steam hole .
Also fitted stainless wire for handles on both stove and pot .
Awesome thread! total newb here but i am so going to make one of these over xmas!
thanks for the inspiration guys
thanks for the inspiration guys
Thinking of making one from a 50 Cal ammo box. Since I dont own a welder, you reckon fire cement would hold a flue in place and a baffle in the roof?
It depends how robust you want it Siman. I welded my ammo box stove as I carry it in my pack for short distance camps, so it gets a little battered. Why don't you start a separate thread with 'Ammo box construction questions' is something like that as a title? That way you'll probably catch the attention of those on here who have made them in the past. Happy building!
here is mine so far.
very proud of the fray bentos frying pan.
still got some work to do on it, gonna put some wire on it and finishing touches etc, but what do you think so far?
very proud of the fray bentos frying pan.
still got some work to do on it, gonna put some wire on it and finishing touches etc, but what do you think so far?
what are people using to cut the hole in the front, may seem like a simple question but im asking!
Dremmels with a cutting disc or angle grinders with thin cutting blade for the most
i cant be arsed to be honest. hahahahahah. dremmel all the way.... pro builder down the road has more tools than b and q and itll prob take him 60 seconds...
Apart from a pencil box that broke within milliseconds on my finishing it in junior school, I've never actually made anything. Until now:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGeKMdjqsr8
The kit cost me £2. That is two containers from a pound shop and a spare coat hanger. It doesn't look as pretty as Wayland's but it works perfectly. Had a rolling boil in just over four minutes for around 300ml with the lid on.
Forget the Dremel. The stove wall, pot wall and stove base was thin enough to puncture with my Mora Clipper and a hammer to make the air vents, fire hole and bail arm holes. I used a screw that was the same length as the diameter of the stove which I put inside the stove close to where I aimed to puncture to add rigidity when puncturing at the top nearer the rim. The holes around the base of the wall and on the base of the stove itself didn't need any rigidity so I didn't need the screw.
I forced a kitchen knife steel that I've had for years through the metal piercings to create nice round air holes and push the sharp bits of metal inside, but this isn't necessary if you're not bothered about sharp metal sticking out or perfect spheres. Creating openings for the air to get in is the main thing.
For the bail arm I used a coat hanger. If you bend it right it will rub against the side of the pot lid and stay vertical or you can pull it back and out the way.
I used more of the coat hanger to create the two prongs on which the pot is placed. I cut through them with the knife and bent them back and forth till they snapped. I also pierced the lid of the pot to allow a little bit of coat hanger wire to be inserted (with a slight hook at the end) which allows the lid to be removed without burning hands. Although I did manage to burn my hand on a stray coal.
I'm gonna find/make a bag to put it in, and I'm gonna make some more holes on the base to let more of the ash fall free. As you can see I propped the stove on two bits of wood to create more space at the bottom for an updraft to occur. I dunno if this works.
The wood I used was twigs from my garden. Some of the bigger twigs I split with the Mora to create little faggots and these burnt a good'un but the little twigs with the damp bark benefited from a squirt of WD40.
All in, great fun and a sense of achievement for my first bushcraft construction. Tomorrow in my lunch hour I will be building a seal skin canoe. With primitive tools, of course.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGeKMdjqsr8
The kit cost me £2. That is two containers from a pound shop and a spare coat hanger. It doesn't look as pretty as Wayland's but it works perfectly. Had a rolling boil in just over four minutes for around 300ml with the lid on.
Forget the Dremel. The stove wall, pot wall and stove base was thin enough to puncture with my Mora Clipper and a hammer to make the air vents, fire hole and bail arm holes. I used a screw that was the same length as the diameter of the stove which I put inside the stove close to where I aimed to puncture to add rigidity when puncturing at the top nearer the rim. The holes around the base of the wall and on the base of the stove itself didn't need any rigidity so I didn't need the screw.
I forced a kitchen knife steel that I've had for years through the metal piercings to create nice round air holes and push the sharp bits of metal inside, but this isn't necessary if you're not bothered about sharp metal sticking out or perfect spheres. Creating openings for the air to get in is the main thing.
For the bail arm I used a coat hanger. If you bend it right it will rub against the side of the pot lid and stay vertical or you can pull it back and out the way.
I used more of the coat hanger to create the two prongs on which the pot is placed. I cut through them with the knife and bent them back and forth till they snapped. I also pierced the lid of the pot to allow a little bit of coat hanger wire to be inserted (with a slight hook at the end) which allows the lid to be removed without burning hands. Although I did manage to burn my hand on a stray coal.
I'm gonna find/make a bag to put it in, and I'm gonna make some more holes on the base to let more of the ash fall free. As you can see I propped the stove on two bits of wood to create more space at the bottom for an updraft to occur. I dunno if this works.
The wood I used was twigs from my garden. Some of the bigger twigs I split with the Mora to create little faggots and these burnt a good'un but the little twigs with the damp bark benefited from a squirt of WD40.
All in, great fun and a sense of achievement for my first bushcraft construction. Tomorrow in my lunch hour I will be building a seal skin canoe. With primitive tools, of course.
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this is mine.. well what left of it.. liveing on the beach has stuff to metall out side ...RUST
Some great ideas in this thread, of which I've borrowed quite heavily. So in the spirit of fairness, I thought I'd show you mine, and maybe add some new thoughts.
It all stowed.
Unpacked.
Rather than use pegs, I used some of the metal that I cut off to fashion the pot stand. These bend and slot into cuts on the side of the Tesco strainer.
As you can see the pot sits quite happily on top.
I cut off the top of the strainer, and forced it onto the bottom, to raise the fire plate up, to allow air in through the bottom.
Some holes have been drilled in to allow me to peg the stove into the ground for stability. I also had a mate weld the two pieces together, and as you can see, the weld ate some of the steel away, but as the purpose of the top on the bottom was to allow air in, it's not a problem.
The base has enough space to store my alcohol stove and some hexi tabs in a plastic tub I had to hand. It'll also serve as storage for cleaning sponge to stop things rattling.
I made an insulated pot out of an old sponge pudding tin and plastic lid you get off ghee tins, so that you can rehydrate food without wasting fuel.
This fits snuggly into the top pot...
...and the main pot. Again no rattles
As you can see, it's not Guuchi, and in this form hasn't been out on trial yet, but it has been used in anger previously. I'm hoping that these few mods will improve on it's last outing.
Cheers for looking.
It all stowed.
Unpacked.
Rather than use pegs, I used some of the metal that I cut off to fashion the pot stand. These bend and slot into cuts on the side of the Tesco strainer.
As you can see the pot sits quite happily on top.
I cut off the top of the strainer, and forced it onto the bottom, to raise the fire plate up, to allow air in through the bottom.
Some holes have been drilled in to allow me to peg the stove into the ground for stability. I also had a mate weld the two pieces together, and as you can see, the weld ate some of the steel away, but as the purpose of the top on the bottom was to allow air in, it's not a problem.
The base has enough space to store my alcohol stove and some hexi tabs in a plastic tub I had to hand. It'll also serve as storage for cleaning sponge to stop things rattling.
I made an insulated pot out of an old sponge pudding tin and plastic lid you get off ghee tins, so that you can rehydrate food without wasting fuel.
This fits snuggly into the top pot...
...and the main pot. Again no rattles
As you can see, it's not Guuchi, and in this form hasn't been out on trial yet, but it has been used in anger previously. I'm hoping that these few mods will improve on it's last outing.
Cheers for looking.
I found this thread when I joined here, and boy did I get hooked!
Got an Ikea utensil holder off Ebay (nearest Ikea is 120 miles away)
and got the Dremmel out. This is the result
I added four bolts to the underside as feet and also as support for the grill
The grill came from a guy at work and I think he got it from a model shop. Anyway, the holes on the bottom are now off the ground and there is a nice air gap below the fire.
A couple of rods scavenged from the workshop at work as pot holders and away we go.
I'm still looking for the perfect billy can to drop inside, but I snaffled this stainless coffee pot from a car boot sale. Coffee is an essential for me so hang the weight, it's coming too.
Once I get the billy sorted I'll stick up some pictures of that too. The problem is, it's now too shiny to set fire too!
Cheers.
Got an Ikea utensil holder off Ebay (nearest Ikea is 120 miles away)
and got the Dremmel out. This is the result
I added four bolts to the underside as feet and also as support for the grill
The grill came from a guy at work and I think he got it from a model shop. Anyway, the holes on the bottom are now off the ground and there is a nice air gap below the fire.
A couple of rods scavenged from the workshop at work as pot holders and away we go.
I'm still looking for the perfect billy can to drop inside, but I snaffled this stainless coffee pot from a car boot sale. Coffee is an essential for me so hang the weight, it's coming too.
Once I get the billy sorted I'll stick up some pictures of that too. The problem is, it's now too shiny to set fire too!
Cheers.
Thanks.
It's just awesome what you can pick up at car boot sales for very little money.
The smell of real coffee and woodsmoke have always been part of the experience for me.
It's just awesome what you can pick up at car boot sales for very little money.
The smell of real coffee and woodsmoke have always been part of the experience for me.
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