Hi again just checking: If I wrap the spindle the other way, does that not put the spindle on the inside of the cord? I thought that was a no no?
Hello folks - Beginner bow drilling
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Now, I tend to wrap my drill in with the hearth end towards me, BUT, I generally try to have my bow stroke really horizontal, so it doesn't matter much. Doing the wrap this way means that if you drill with bow angled down a bit, so that the end of the bow tends to bump the ground, you close up the wrap and get cord on cord rubbing.
There will be other ways of doing this.
Drill is placed on top of cord and bearing end makes a clockwise circle.
Bow is held on the left end, and when right end is low, cord-cord rubbing happens
Whereas if you wrap the drill in with the hearth away from you, drill underneath the cord, clockwise rotation, then flip to put the hearth end at bottom.
The wrap is more open if the tip of the drill is low.
The aim should be to keep the wrap tight, not a spiral, not crossing, by bow action being parallel to ground, but this is not always easy for everyone to do, or in all circumstances.
There will be other ways of doing this.
Drill is placed on top of cord and bearing end makes a clockwise circle.
Bow is held on the left end, and when right end is low, cord-cord rubbing happens
Whereas if you wrap the drill in with the hearth away from you, drill underneath the cord, clockwise rotation, then flip to put the hearth end at bottom.
The wrap is more open if the tip of the drill is low.
The aim should be to keep the wrap tight, not a spiral, not crossing, by bow action being parallel to ground, but this is not always easy for everyone to do, or in all circumstances.
Other observation.
In this shot, the bow hand fingers do not wrap around the string. Wrapping around the string is a way that allows tension to be increased if the string starts to slip.
In this shot, the bow hand fingers do not wrap around the string. Wrapping around the string is a way that allows tension to be increased if the string starts to slip.
Just in case it wasn't clear with Chris' explanation above, he doesn't mean wrap it so the drill is on the bow side, he means wrap it so the string rises from the wrap nearest your bow hand so that is isn't pulling up on the string away from your bow hand (not sure that makes it any clearer to be honest
).
I cannot be sure whether you are lifting the bow hand and getting an angle, the perspective makes it difficult, but it does look like the cord wrap is always tight or overlapping, and since you say you are getting a lot of cord breaking, this could be a cause.
hopefully the photos make it a little clearer. I suspect there are several ways you could wrap the drill to get the desired configuration of wrap, position relative to bow and cord and having the hearth end on the bottomJust in case it wasn't clear with Chris' explanation above, he doesn't mean wrap it so the drill is on the bow side, he means wrap it so the string rises from the wrap nearest your bow hand so that is isn't pulling up on the string away from your bow hand (not sure that makes it any clearer to be honest
There is a HUGE difference between tensile strength and abrasion resistance.
I’ve sheared a 3/8” steel skyline winch cable that could drag four tonnes just by sliding the 1/4” pull back cable over it at the same point when a twig got caught in a twist at the winch block.
That’s why I asked about the point of failure.
I think you have the advice that you need form others now.
Remember - @Tengu does it with polypropylene! I don’t think that the cord is critical but then I’ve never tried it.
I’ve sheared a 3/8” steel skyline winch cable that could drag four tonnes just by sliding the 1/4” pull back cable over it at the same point when a twig got caught in a twist at the winch block.
That’s why I asked about the point of failure.
I think you have the advice that you need form others now.
Remember - @Tengu does it with polypropylene! I don’t think that the cord is critical but then I’ve never tried it.
Ok chaps I’ve just had three more attempts and you are all 100% correct. I have been rubbing string against string. I haven’t changed the way I wrap because to be totally honest I can’t see how I can without putting the spindle on the inside. (I can be pretty thick at times!) However I did watch the string this time, not the board, and by holding the bow at a point where they weren’t rubbing against each other I suffered zero damage to the cord. (Hallelujah!!!)
I did though try initially to get an extra go on the board as it were by putting an indent in the end of the board rather than the side. That taught me another thing to avoid, because that time the drill simply traveled itself right down and out of the board because of the direction of the grain. I had two more attempts and on both occasions the pile of dust began smoking. In other words I got a minute ember. The trouble was the drill I am using, which has worn down a bit, must have reached a part of itself that is too soft. It just wore away before I could get a proper ember.
I am probably kidding myself, but I reckon another appropriate piece of timber and I will be there.
Also it became apparent that the dent in the mahogany top bearing had drilled down from all the usage and was too deep, which allowed friction to build up between it and the drill.
By eck there ain’t half some variables to consider!!
I will find another drill when time allows and video it again, but as I said, your advice about me putting string on string is the major factor. That’s the first time I haven’t snapped the cord.
Many, many thanks for your patience with me. It’s truly appreciated.
I did though try initially to get an extra go on the board as it were by putting an indent in the end of the board rather than the side. That taught me another thing to avoid, because that time the drill simply traveled itself right down and out of the board because of the direction of the grain. I had two more attempts and on both occasions the pile of dust began smoking. In other words I got a minute ember. The trouble was the drill I am using, which has worn down a bit, must have reached a part of itself that is too soft. It just wore away before I could get a proper ember.
I am probably kidding myself, but I reckon another appropriate piece of timber and I will be there.
Also it became apparent that the dent in the mahogany top bearing had drilled down from all the usage and was too deep, which allowed friction to build up between it and the drill.
By eck there ain’t half some variables to consider!!
I will find another drill when time allows and video it again, but as I said, your advice about me putting string on string is the major factor. That’s the first time I haven’t snapped the cord.
Many, many thanks for your patience with me. It’s truly appreciated.
Just twist The spindle in the other direction.
Hopefully this video works - I’m just cooking dinner but grabbed a bit of wire and dowel.
The first twist is how you do it.
The second is how I do it.
Both the same action but you twist towards yourself but I twist away.
This link will expire in two days - I just did a quick search for somewhere to host it.
Make sense?
Thank you for taking the time to do that. I am very grateful. But in all honesty I still don’t get it. If I twist the spindle in the opposite direction to my video, the drill is upside down. Unless you are left handed?Just twist The spindle in the other direction.
Hopefully this video works - I’m just cooking dinner but grabbed a bit of wire and dowel.
The first twist is how you do it.
The second is how I do it.
Both the same action but you twist towards yourself but I twist away.
This link will expire in two days - I just did a quick search for somewhere to host it.
Make sense?
I’m starting to feel embarrassed about this. Everybody has been so kind to take the time to help, but I cannot get it into my thick head!
I just rewatched my own video and now that it has been mentioned I can see that the cord is definitely rubbing against itself.
And now I can see what you’re saying. If I twist from the other side the line going under is on my left of the spindle, whereas the way I have been doing it the line going under is on the right of the spindle?
And now I can see what you’re saying. If I twist from the other side the line going under is on my left of the spindle, whereas the way I have been doing it the line going under is on the right of the spindle?
Thank you. Blimey, I really am a dimwit at times.
On other threads I’ve been able to post pictures from my Flickr account, but for some reason it won’t let me do it anymore??
I can see how much effort you are putting into making this work. You should be proud of yourself.
I have never previously contemplated a fire bow but this thread is certainly pushing me to add it to my list of projects.
@Stew video is everything that you need.
The following goes against all the learning theory that I know as it is a way of avoiding the underlying principle that Stew is showing you. You need that principle for fire and for tying a bowline!
It occurred to me - you have had the hitch the wrong way up and the notch pointing away from you. Perhaps what you needed to do was leave the equipment as it was and just walk round to the other side!
I’m looking for someone to test one of my creations. In a spare moment at a pottery club I made this cockle shell as a pivot. It is thick pottery and very heavily glazed. I don’t see it as any less authentic than a limpet or a hollow in a knife handle (but maybe others do).
If you think that it might help you then you can have it.
I have never previously contemplated a fire bow but this thread is certainly pushing me to add it to my list of projects.
@Stew video is everything that you need.
The following goes against all the learning theory that I know as it is a way of avoiding the underlying principle that Stew is showing you. You need that principle for fire and for tying a bowline!
It occurred to me - you have had the hitch the wrong way up and the notch pointing away from you. Perhaps what you needed to do was leave the equipment as it was and just walk round to the other side!
I’m looking for someone to test one of my creations. In a spare moment at a pottery club I made this cockle shell as a pivot. It is thick pottery and very heavily glazed. I don’t see it as any less authentic than a limpet or a hollow in a knife handle (but maybe others do).
If you think that it might help you then you can have it.
And bosh! Just like that! A new spindle collected this morning, first go, an ember that had me contemplating calling the fire brigade!
I am literally over the moon! Cannot thanks you folks enough!
I am literally over the moon! Cannot thanks you folks enough!
Thank you. I’m chuffed to bits!
That’s really kind of you, but without meaning to sound ungrateful my ultimate mission is to go into the woods in summer and start a fire with nothing but my knife.
I’m sure your piece of fired clay, which as you say is a natural product, will work perfectly.
