That makes sense. Thank you.In a billy can is the way I go....
If you’re still looking in: I can easily collect king Alfred cakes in my local woodland, and I’ve lit them and seen the way they hold an ember.
Without wanting to come over all 'bushcraft police', many people aren't aware King Alfred's cakes are often inhabited by pupating invertebrates trying to live out their lifecycle. In the south and east of England the scarce Platyrhinus resinosus relies on them for food. I know somebody who studies these and she loathes 'bushcraft', having seen a local wood all but stripped by somebody collecting several lifetimes' supply at once, or possibly to sell online.
There are plenty of web articles extolling the virtues of King Arthur's cakes for firelighting, but they never seem to mention good foraging practices, take the minimum you need, never strip an area etc etc. I'll readily admit I've occasionally gathered them but only very occasionally.
No, if you read my post you'll learn that I have used them myself on occasion, and didn't suggest their use was avoided altogether.Are you suggesting that no one here should use this fungus? All the big names in bushcraft have done so.
Hi and thank you that’s a very kind offer, and it’s very much appreciated, but I have a few billy cans myself that don’t get any use now. I will use one of those.View attachment 92603
One of these any use?
The enamel is dinged inside and out on both the cup and the jugs.
(I’m reliably informed that they are still food safe but I don’t use them anyway.). Would one work for you?
If you’d like one I’ll send it.
I take your point however you need have no fear on my part. I took three from a fallen tree with about twenty others on it, in a woods where there are countless other trees laden with them and I’ll probably never collect them again.Without wanting to come over all 'bushcraft police', many people aren't aware King Alfred's cakes are often inhabited by pupating invertebrates trying to live out their lifecycle. In the south and east of England the scarce Platyrhinus resinosus relies on them for food. I know somebody who studies these and she loathes 'bushcraft', having seen a local wood all but stripped by somebody collecting several lifetimes' supply at once, or possibly to sell online.
There are plenty of web articles extolling the virtues of King Arthur's cakes for firelighting, but they never seem to mention good foraging practices, take the minimum you need, never strip an area etc etc. I'll readily admit I've occasionally gathered them but only very occasionally.
Congratulations @CPH! Job done.
……. And don’t concern yourself about a few fungi just get on with it.
It’s not something I would do regularly, if ever again, outside of a survival situation. (The carrying fire that is.)
Heres,few tips the wood polishing and squeaking on the bearing block is a good thing u can achieve that from lots light drilling and squidging in greenery goosegrass is good for this.The hearthboard polishing is bad though a pinch off dry sand in the hole remedies this 2limpit shells stacked together make a decent bearing block aswell.Hi everybody, I’m new to the forums, so thanks for accepting me.
I’m an outdoor person and enjoy a multitude of outdoor activities. I have joined these forums to try and extend my very limited knowledge of bushcraft, and in particular friction fire making.
It’s something I’ve had a hankering to do for many years but just never gotten around to it. Throughout the Xmas period -when at home-I’ve done little else (Other than eating and drinking too much.) but watch YouTube videos about bushcraft and wild camping.
I’ve had lots of long hikes to gather various bits and pieces to hopefully make decent bow drill equipment from.
I’m looking forward to browsing all your experienced threads, and hopefully eventually to posting a few topics myself.
Happy new year to one and all.
Regards Chris
Thank you. I am a friction fire lighting novice, but I’ve spent most of my 61 years being involved with nature, and enjoying outdoor stuff. I like to think I’m fairly switched on to conservation and preservation. I like to photograph or film everything from our largest mammals to wildflowers. I’m also a big fan of our birds, and a member of the BTO.As long as you know what you're doing that's fine. But, most people, including some big names, do not understand the ecology of these things. Ignorance is no excuse. We should start our studies at the ecology end, then learn how to make sensible use of all the materials nature offers us. That's how indigenous peoples do it - but we're in too much of a rush in our world
I got into wilderness skills because I wanted to understand and be closer to nature and enjoy being part of that environment, not because I wanted to cut trees with axes and light big fires.
BTW, none of this is meant as a criticism of @CPH, by all accounts he has taken a sensible and measured approach to this learning process.
Yes and I’m afraid I just crashed and burned in that regard. I’ve just got back from a long hike and I stopped half way round to try my luck with the bow drill again. I spent a frustrating couple of hours trying to get an ember but snapped four different cords, one of them being paracord!Good for you, learning the skills, practicing the skills while treading as lightly as possible. This thread is a reminder I haven't lit a bow drill fire in a while, it's a great time to try out the damp timber method discussed here while everything is damp and freezing!
Thank you. I appreciate the tips.Heres,few tips the wood polishing and squeaking on the bearing block is a good thing u can achieve that from lots light drilling and squidging in greenery goosegrass is good for this.The hearthboard polishing is bad though a pinch off dry sand in the hole remedies this 2limpit shells stacked together make a decent bearing block aswell.
Sorry, I disagree with this. I find a straight stick much superior to a bent one for this.In addition to what Chris has said, your bow is not bow shaped. You will find it easier if there is good separation between your bow and the drill at the centre. To achieve that you need a bow stick that is slightly curved (like a strung bow!). That will do two things a) stop the string rubbing on the bow, and b) allow springy tension on the string.