Hello folks - Beginner bow drilling

[CPH]

In the video it appears the string might not be tight enough around the spindle, so that near the end it looked like the bow was moving, but the spindle wasn't. Meaning that you were dragging the cord around the spindle....lots of friction and heat into the string. The bow might also be a bit short which means your strokes tend to be shorter, more direction changes, which tends to be where one gets cord slipping.

Youtube allows you to play your video back at 1/4 speed. It might be something to do with the sampling rate and the speed of the spindle, but it does look like it stands still at times.

Hi and thank you. It most definitely does slip. I am not sure if that’s because the cord has already begun to deteriorate though?
It is always at the very end of the drilling. The whole thing appears to start binding. I can’t make any difference by adding tension to the bow with my hand either. I’ve tried various boards and spindles now, but the result is the same every time.
I know my action becomes wobbly at the end of the drilling, but that’s because the spindle begins to bind.
Today I couldn’t get an ember at all. I also noticed that the dust I created with the drill was brown rather than black. I’m assuming that might mean the board is too punky and consequentially too soft?

 

[CPH]

In addition to what Chris has said, your bow is not bow shaped. You will find it easier if there is good separation between your bow and the drill at the centre. To achieve that you need a bow stick that is slightly curved (like a strung bow!). That will do two things a) stop the string rubbing on the bow, and b) allow springy tension on the string.

Thank you. I have read and watched an awful lot of articles and videos and there seems to be a fifty fifty split regarding whether the bow should be straight or curved. The bow I used when first getting success is curved, but I chose the one in the video because it had a slight curve at one end. I used that as the end I hold. It worked well enough yesterday until the string broke.

 

[CPH]

Sorry, I disagree with this. I find a straight stick much superior to a bent one for this.

Thanks. I guess both will work to some extent?

 

[Stew]

Thanks. I guess both will work to some extent?

I guess it's one of those things where it just varies from person to person as to what works best for them.

 

[Pattree]

Now I know nothing at all about fire bows but I know a little about knots and cord.
Do you need two hitches on your spindle. I can see how it might help grip but there will be a lot of friction between the two loops. Could this be causing your cord failure?

I’m very happy to be wrong.

pee ess,
Going by the smoke just off shot you were doing fine and your tinder let you down.

 

[CPH]

Now I know nothing at all about fire bows but I know a little about knots and cord.
Do you need two hitches on your spindle. I can see how it might help grip but there will be a lot of friction between the two loops. Could this be causing your cord failure?

I’m very happy to be wrong.

Thanks, but if you mean twice around the spindle or drill? It isn’t. It’s only twisted around the drill the one time, although I have seen a couple of videos where the individual does take two turns around the drill.

 

[Broch]

Sorry, I disagree with this. I find a straight stick much superior to a bent one for this.

Really? Oh well, to each their own. I have never managed to get natural cordage to survive rubbing against the bow. To be clear, I'm not talking about a 'strained' stick as in a true bow; I still apply the tension by squeezing the string against the bow.

What's good enough for John Fenna and Paul Kirtley, is good enough for me

 

[Stew]

Really? Oh well, to each their own. I have never managed to get natural cordage to survive rubbing against the bow. To be clear, I'm not talking about a 'strained' stick as in a true bow; I still apply the tension by squeezing the string against the bow.

What's good enough for John Fenna and Paul Kirtley, is good enough for me

To be fair, I'm not saying for natural cordage - that might make a difference but I can't comment on it.

 

[John Fenna]

Really? Oh well, to each their own. I have never managed to get natural cordage to survive rubbing against the bow. To be clear, I'm not talking about a 'strained' stick as in a true bow; I still apply the tension by squeezing the string against the bow.

What's good enough for John Fenna and Paul Kirtley, is good enough for me

I am no expert! - just a fair bit of experience What works for me and my students need not be the only way!
I see lots of differing methods work OK for other folks: Asian bow drill exponents seem to use a slacker cord and straighter bows ... but this has never worked well for me....