French Canadian Tuque

[pierre girard]

For many years I've used a French Canadian Tuque while canoeing and in the woods. They are easy to pack, good for extra warmth when needed, and make a good "night cap" when sleeping out.

I make them in the 18th century style, four pieces of cone shaped cloth, sewn together with French seams. To make one, here is what you do:

Measure the circumference of your head. Divide by four. Add 3/4 to one inch to each measurement. Make your pattern of newspaper, starting at the fold. Your pattern should be two times, or two and a half times as tall as it is wide. Make sure the tip of the pattern looks similar to half of an American football:

Place the pattern on a piece of cotton (summer) or light wool (winter) cloth. Make an outline of the pattern with a felt tip pen:

Cut around the outline on the cloth and sew the pieces together, edge to edge. Turn the tuque inside out and sew another seam to cover the first (French seam). I have a photo of this, and the finished product, but have not been able to upload them yet. I will add them later in the thread.

To finish the hem on the head band of the tuque - just fold the bottom edge of the tuque two times (about 3/8 inch each time) and sew.

PG

 

[Toddy]

Very neat P-G Funny enough I came across a pattern for a knitted one last week. It's called a Voyagers cap and it has a very long provenance.
It used to be known as a Phrygian cap and Mithras is usually represented as wearing it. The white god was the soldier's god of the Romans, among other peoples, and if the Roman Emperor hadn't become Christian then it is believed by many academics that Mithraism would have prevailed instead.
After all that waffle (sorry) the cap style is at least 2,000 years old, and might well be nearer to 4,000

Cheers,
Toddy

 

[pierre girard]

Very neat P-G Funny enough I came across a pattern for a knitted one last week. It's called a Voyagers cap and it has a very long provenance.
It used to be known as a Phrygian cap and Mithras is usually represented as wearing it. The white god was the soldier's god of the Romans, among other peoples, and if the Roman Emperor hadn't become Christian then it is believed by many academics that Mithraism would have prevailed instead.
After all that waffle (sorry) the cap style is at least 2,000 years old, and might well be nearer to 4,000

Cheers,
Toddy

Well, you have the better of me, historically. I know they are at least medieval in origin.

In more recent history, Canadian French regime tuques were made as described above. Once the English conquered Canada - the knit caps became "the thing." English "night caps" were imported for use by the engages or voyageurs.

Here are a few more photos of construction:

Four pieces cut and ready to sew:

Sewing the pieces together, edge to edge:

Sewing the inside seam (French seam):

Finished product:

PG

 

[bilko]

That looks realy nice actually, especially with that extra stitch. I wonder why people used to leave the empty flap at the end? material would be expensive so the empty scoop at the end of the cap must have a good use. Does it collect heat?
Also wondering if this design is somehow connected with the exagerated hood of the arab Gallaba.
Can i be realy thich and ask why you need 4 bits of material when it appears you have only sewn two together to form the cap? Or did you double them up?

 

[Abbe Osram]

Hi!
Thank´s for a great design! Just what we´ve been looking for. bilko, the two pieces sewn together is an example, you just continue and sew piece three and four the same way. Otherwise you won´t be able to wear it.

Pierre, I´m unsure about the French seam. Is the first seam on the right side of the cap?
Abbe´s seamstress

 

[JonnyP]

Hi PG...............Sorry to go off title, but I am a bit concerned about one of the storys in your news paper. "Indians shut out twins". I did not know that you still had Indians running about out there, are they still causing a problem to the settlers. Are the twins OK.
Also what title did those badgers win ? Was is the best looking black and white creature award ?.....................Jon

 

[Abbe Osram]

Hi PG...............Sorry to go off title, but I am a bit concerned about one of the storys in your news paper. "Indians shut out twins". I did not know that you still had Indians running about out there, are they still causing a problem to the settlers. Are the twins OK.
Also what title did those badgers win ? Was is the best looking black and white creature award ?.....................Jon

// Abbe

 

[swyn]

Great looking hat PG. Interesting provenance from Toddy and yourself. Amazing what history a simple thing can provide. Swyn

 

[pierre girard]

Hi!
Thank´s for a great design! Just what we´ve been looking for. bilko, the two pieces sewn together is an example, you just continue and sew piece three and four the same way. Otherwise you won´t be able to wear it.

Gerard, I´m unsure about the French seam. Is the first seam on the right side of the cap?
Abbe´s seamstress

First seam is sewn, edge to edge, on what will become the outside of the hat. Hat is then turned inside out (after all the "first" seams are sewn) and the "French" seam is sewn. Anymore sewing questions - be sure to ask and I will attempt to explain.

The only reason for four pieces - that is how the original hat was sewn in the 18th century (and probably earlier). You are more than welcome to try doing it with two pieces.

I'm not sure why they are so tall. You can make them shorter if you like, but I like the looks of the tall ones. Winter caps were made in a similar manner, though short so they didn't flop over, with a fur trim around the hatband area.

As to "Indians" and "Twins" - they are baseball teams - and the real Indians (Native Americans) are getting quite put out at being used to designate sports teams. "Badgers" is the name of the Wisconsin college team, as well as the state animal of Wisconsin. I've no idea what it is they've won.

I'm not very sports minded. I spent my youth in the woods, instead of playing team sports, so - that was the part of the newspaper I thought I would miss the least.

PG

 

[pierre girard]

That looks realy nice actually, especially with that extra stitch. I wonder why people used to leave the empty flap at the end? material would be expensive so the empty scoop at the end of the cap must have a good use. Does it collect heat?
Also wondering if this design is somehow connected with the exagerated hood of the arab Gallaba.
Can i be realy thich and ask why you need 4 bits of material when it appears you have only sewn two together to form the cap? Or did you double them up?

It only appears to have two pieces sewn together. You have to keep the other two pieces tucked under and out of the way of your sewing. There are four pieces, each 1/4 of the circumference of your head (plus a bit - you don't want the hat to be too tight).

PG

 

[Abbe Osram]

First seam is sewn, edge to edge, on what will become the outside of the hat. Hat is then turned inside out (after all the "first" seams are sewn) and the "French" seam is sewn. Anymore sewing questions - be sure to ask and I will attempt to explain.

The only reason for four pieces - that is how the original hat was sewn in the 18th century (and probably earlier). You are more than welcome to try doing it with two pieces.

I'm not sure why they are so tall. You can make them shorter if you like, but I like the looks of the tall ones. Winter caps were made in a similar manner, though short so they didn't flop over, with a fur trim around the hatband area.

PG

Thanks. I understand the French seam now. What comes to four pieces instead of just two, I believe that it is easier to make the cap fit neatly by using four pieces as supposed to two. My guess is that the cap is tall for two reasons: 1. design 2. for better ventilation.
/Tuula (Abbe´s seamstress)

 

[JonnyP]

As to "Indians" and "Twins" - they are baseball teams - and the real Indians (Native Americans) are getting quite put out at being used to designate sports teams. "Badgers" is the name of the Wisconsin college team, as well as the state animal of Wisconsin. I've no idea what it is they've won.

I'm not very sports minded. I spent my youth in the woods, instead of playing team sports, so - that was the part of the newspaper I thought I would miss the least.

PG

Sorry PG I do know that really. My parents live in Montana and just up the road from them is a town called Brownsville where the Indians live. I was just having a bit of fun......................Jon