Flexcut Carvin' Jack - Worth Getting?

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Any thoughts on the Flexcut Carvin' Jack? I'm thinking of getting one for general whittling or carving of small things (although I have no idea what at present).

What's the quality like? I gather the blades are made of decent steel, but read a comment somewhere that the lock mechanism could maybe be better (a comment from 2012, I think, so maybe improved since then?). Do the blades lock nice and firm with no slack? Do the locks last well?

How about the ergonomics? Is it fine in the hand, or does discomfort come in after a while?

Is the stropping kit okay?
 
I've had mine now for close to two years now. I don't use it a ton for the hook knife say other than baby spoons it's really a bit small for my taste. Sharpness they hold an edge well strop in between good to go. The lock I've not had any issues with mine. In general I like it for taking out when I ride good for a bit of carving without having to haul a complete kit. Worth it price wise? It's spendy for what it is I'm still up in the air I I'd actually buy one. I received mine as payment for a commissioned piece.
 
Depends on the intended use and location
It's a pen knife and as is the case with this kind of knife, it's a compromise between weight, size and usability
If you intend to use it in the back garden I would suggest you buy a carving kit with 4, 6 or whatever separate blades. you might even save some money!
If it's for when out and about where you might not want to carry the extra weight and bulk the this will work nicely
 
I'd agree, I've had one for a couple of years and it works very well for small crafts such as wood spirits or relief carving. Great for portability (but be aware it's a locking blade). Really though you don't need it for making spoons at home so it does depend on what you want to make.
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Ive had mine for a few years, very happy with it and Id not hesitate to buy another if I had to. the edges of the case are rounded and Ive not felt any soreness after a hour or so of carving. The stropping board that it came with works fine for me, Ive tended to use autosol rather than the crayon that came with it.
 
It's a classic example of a jack of all trades, master of none. It's OK, portable and relatively easy to keep sharp but it's not great to use for prolonged periods. It does depend on what you want to carve with it and where. For carving wood sprites on location, it's good; otherwise, it is a compromise.
 
Thanks all. Just wated some feedback on the quality and usability, and this looks to be worth a try. Mostly for use when out and about, with occasional use at home if needed. I apprdciate that it's a compromise.

I ordered one from Tyzack Tools in London if anyone's interested. Price was £110 with free delivery. (I ordered a lefty because I'm right hand dominant and my brain does't compute pulling sharp things towards my thumb.)
 
(I ordered a lefty because I'm right hand dominant and my brain does't compute pulling sharp things towards my thumb.)
That doesn't quite compute.

You don't pull *towards* your thumb, you pull *past* your thumb.

I suppose by getting a lefty you are intending to work cutting away from yourself. Hmm, you are giving up using your wrist (curling inwards) and bracing with your thumb.
Good luck to you but it isn't how I'd suggest working.
 
I got the "right handed" one as I'm left handed, I had to send the "left -handed" one back when I got mine
 
I like my carving jack had it around 10 years. Its had some hard use. I have a few different carving tools so it doesn't get heavy use these days. It comes into its own when i'm paddling my canoe and i just fancy chilling out on a tow path for a while and whittle a spoon. I have had little old ladies approach and ask to see my carvings not something likely to happen using a large fixed blade. Therefore it will always have a place in my tool chest. If I lost it would I buy another probably.
 
Ive thought about getting one for quite a while but I've never pulled the trigger. I still fancy one but it's a case of if I had that amount of funds spare I doubt it'd top my list- interesting to hear others opinions though :).
 
Why get the opposite hand, Kev?
the knife is designed to be used cutting towards you as is common practice is the US I believe - using the thumb of the strong hand to pull against
I prefer to cut away using the thumb of the weak hand on the back of the blade to push
if that is the case you need the opposite hand as the blade arrangement within the frame is different
 
the knife is designed to be used cutting towards you as is common practice is the US I believe - using the thumb of the strong hand to pull against
I prefer to cut away using the thumb of the weak hand on the back of the blade to push
if that is the case you need the opposite hand as the blade arrangement within the frame is different

Ditto this.

I bought the "correct" "right handed" one and ended up swapping with a left handed chap that had made the same mistake. We are both happier now.

Seems odd but they do things differently over there.

Comments about the lock may be due to the lock being shared across all the blades at each end. This means if one of the folded blades is slightly out of position, the active blade may not lock properly.

It's best to double check by wiggling the blade a bit to make sure it is locked before working with it.
 
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"...I bought the "correct" "right handed" one and ended up swapping with a left handed chap that had made the same mistake. We are both happier now..."

I had exactly the same issue, I bought the wrong 'handed' one as an impulse buy.

I was happy enough with it although I never had the sharpening block as the seller who was going to forward it to me at a later date and never did. It was tricky to sharpen without it but not impossible, fine grit paper around a dowel did the trick.

It is a well made bit of gear but it didn't get much use, I preferred to use a proper crook knife and chisels. However if you are short of space or want to travel light, go for it.
 
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the knife is designed to be used cutting towards you as is common practice is the US I believe - using the thumb of the strong hand to pull against
I prefer to cut away using the thumb of the weak hand on the back of the blade to push
if that is the case you need the opposite hand as the blade arrangement within the frame is different
I do both - depending on the cut to be made. I'm not sure why that means you need the 'wrong' version - is it to do with the placement of the blades on the carving jack?
 

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