Fire pistons

[Jeff Wagner]

Yes, amadou as Tone has noted. With regrets, I am not very familiar with the woodland flora of the UK, however experimentation is half the fun. On this side of the pond I have used the piston to iginite the following; True tinder fungus ( Innonotus Obliquus ). False tinder fungus (Fomes Fomentarius ), Milkweed pod, Pith of the Mullein stalk and plain, old rotten wood punk. Punk may require two or three hits to ignite - but what tinder is more plentiful in a woodland environment...

 

[Adi007]

Fomes Fomentarius is quite common over here, as is another type of false tinder fungus called Daldina Concentrica (cramp balls) which I'm sure would do the trick with a fire piston.

 

[Jeff Wagner]

With Fomes, look for a thin, corky layer that occurs beneath the spore tubes. It is unfortunate the aroma of burning Fomes is not nearly as pleasant as Innonotus which has a rather nice incense quality. Small wonder it keeps the biting insects at bay.

 

[Adi007]

With Fomes, look for a thin, corky layer that occurs beneath the spore tubes. It is unfortunate the aroma of burning Fomes is not nearly as pleasant as Innonotus which has a rather nice incense quality. Small wonder it keeps the biting insects at bay.

He he he ... tell me about the smell ): :rolmao: I would imagine that clemetis bark would be a pretty good tinder too.

 

[Paganwolf]

I feel a weekend of tinder testing coming up ta lads

 

[Jeff Wagner]

Just use a pin and transfer the mini coal from your piston to your tinder.

Ed

To light a fire, I simply pluck the coal from the tinder cavity with a fingernail and transfer it to either a fiber nest or wood punk. When suitable bark or other fiber material can not be located, wood punk makes a great alternative. Three or four pieces can be blown up into flame without too much difficulty.

 

[Paganwolf]

I tried amadou today in my fire piston slightly more difficult to light than char cloth but still worked, wood punk next

 

[Tony]

did you tease the amadou a bit? If anything it should be easier that charcloth :?:

 

[Paganwolf]

yeah i fluffed it up nice , ill give it another go when i get home,it seemed to compress into the recess in the end perhaps i need to use more :?: the charcloth went with one slap

 

[Jeff Wagner]

yeah i fluffed it up nice , ill give it another go when i get home,it seemed to compress into the recess in the end perhaps i need to use more :?: the charcloth went with one slap

With a bit of practice, you may find that a sudden compression stroke, ( I call it a "crunch" ) where the piston and cylinder are both pushed from opposite direstions, is more effective than the palm strike method. I think this generates higher piston force and compression. With an unsupported palm strike, the cylinder is free to move and therefore can absorb some of the energy. With uncharred punk please anticipate three attempts prior to ignition. You should see charring after the second.

 

[Paganwolf]

cheers Jeff ill try that

 

[Tony]

With a bit of practice, you may find that a sudden compression stroke, ( I call it a "crunch" ) where the piston and cylinder are both pushed from opposite direstions, is more effective than the palm strike method. I think this generates higher piston force and compression. With an unsupported palm strike, the cylinder is free to move and therefore can absorb some of the energy. With uncharred punk please anticipate three attempts prior to ignition. You should see charring after the second.

Things are so much easier to learn with good advice on hand. Thanks Jeff :You_Rock_

 

[Gary]

Thats a good point Jeff as I have real trouble doing the palm method, maybe I'm a bit of a biff there I dont know but threw trial and error I found the crunch method and it is much more 'natural' - anyway it works for me!

 

[Jeff Wagner]

It's a bit challenging to adequately describe in words alone what I can teach in a few seconds in person, however the various lighting techniques are explained in the instructions that accompany each piston. There is an additional method, suitable for the most stubborn tinders, that I will share. However, please use it caution and restraint as it can be hard on the piston if not careful. Great force can be achieved by resting the cylinder at waist level on a solid, unyielding surface such as a log or table top, etc. and ramming the piston home using the strength of the upper body. The cylinder must be held very firmly to avoid an accidental slip and possible damage. Its is extreme and usually not required, however I have ignited somewhat damp wood punk on the first try with this method.

Jeff

 

[Gary]

They come with instructions? :shock:

 

[Jeff Wagner]

Please send me an Email at jeff@firepistons.com and I will send them to you.

 

[Paganwolf]

i thought it was tinder! :shock: being a tradesman instructions are the things that you put down start building the machine then half hour later you spend 3 hours reading the instructions trying to find out where you went wrong 3 and a half hours ago (am i rambling?) ive got em any hoo ill fetch em with me if i can find em :rolmao:

 

[Jeff Wagner]

I recall several email exchanges with a customer last year who was convinced the fire piston was a hoax and incapable of making a coal - until his good wife read the instructions and produced smoking fungus on her first attempt. :rolmao:

 

[Paganwolf]

i brought mine into work to amaze my pals and they just asked where the batteries went :?: dont know what they ment :?:

 

[Jeff Wagner]

That's precisely why we created the Bushmaster model. Is there a way I can post a photo here?