Just stumbled across this thread and I'm a bit dissapointed about some of the comments here which indicate (a) people haven't been reading the accompanying instructions, and (b) people haven't been watching the youtube videos either LOL!! Thanks to those who have tried to offer positive support to these doubters ;-)
I explain in the instructions that due to the metal being fresh off the laser cutter, the edge of the metal is slightly course where the panels meet. So it feels slightly stiff. However this wears off after a couple of assemblies and so the slotting is much smoother.
Here's a copy of the instructions for those who missed it first time;
Hexagonal set up: Take one side panel and rotate it with the side prongs facing downwards. Slide on another 2 panels either side of this and then place the grills into the slots where you need them. Taking care to ensure the ‘front’ of the grill is on the opposite side of your first panel. Slide on a fourth and fifth panel on alternate sides, and then holding those two panels between your thumb and forefinger, ease the fire door into place. Please note, this will probably be a tight fit the first time you do this, to ensure the whole stove is one solid item. It will ease over time.
Square set up (Trangia): Take one side panel and rotate it with the prongs facing upwards. Slide on two other side panels, place the Trangia burner into the central slot (correct height for maximum efficiency), then slide on the door. Other options include, using two thin tent pegs, or a stiff foil, as a Coke Can burner support.
Sorry, but how can it be any clearer than that? Put 3 pieces together, add the base grill, slide on either side and drop on the door. Place the other grill on the top. ;-)
Come on guys, you're rufty tufty outdoor types who can survive starvation and natural disasters. Surely 7 bits of metal shouldn't be much of a challenge?
Putting the Hive together is an extension of the above. Place the first 5 panels together first, then slot in the base and add the rest. Don't forget to fill the kettle and have something to grill while you sit back and enjoy the view ;-)
All metal will warp when under intense heat. I've been using mine for 2 years now and the side panels and door have never warped. The base and the grill does warp (again its in the instructions) and this doesn't alter performance or the unit slotting together. I just leave it and the amount of warp reduces as it cools.
When testing I've had it full to the brim with BBQ fuel and just kept it going for over an hour glowing red hot, and apart from stuffing myself with several burgers, a trout, roasted sweetcorn and bannock bread, there's been no damage or change in performance.
Finally, airflow. You wouldn't believe how many base grill patterns I went through to adjust the airflow to match the capacity and fuel used. It is a very fine art and I was happy to achieve the balance I did. The reason the holes reduce towards the outside of the base is to allow coals to build up around the outside and maintain the density of the heat and thus help ignite fresh fuel when added to the heart of the fire. In the first design there was much more air passing through, and it burned far too rapidly. Very intense, but very quick.
When I went the opposite way, the fire starved and struggled to produce much heat. So it would linger and not be able to provide a consistent cooking heat. Fresh fuel wouldn't ignite and it was a pig to get going.
What I have noticed is the amount of fuel people use in the images I've seen around the net. If you look at my original videos you'll see the amount of fuel I used to boil a kettle. Literally two handfuls of twigs. Most of the images I see around have the stove rammed full of larger pieces. Of course it'll burn the fuel easily, but in actual fact if you are cooking on it, you don't need such an intense source. Maybe it was for sitting around afterwards.
I've been checking out the science of Wood Gas recently and although the Bush Cooker/Buddy concept is quiet elaborate (again see the video I did sometime ago about airflow) the reason the Honey is so efficient is that it might be using the same principle of reigniting the gas which is released off the charcoal, which mixes with air when is drawn through the upper side slots. I'm doing more work on this and if my calculations are correct another video will be done to explain it in more detail.
All in all guys, I tried to think this through as much as I could, seeking input from Bushcrafters as well as others, balancing needs and wants, with practicality and of course, cost. It is British Designed and I'm proud to say British Made. Its about time somebody stuck their neck out and starting making things in this country again.
I explain in the instructions that due to the metal being fresh off the laser cutter, the edge of the metal is slightly course where the panels meet. So it feels slightly stiff. However this wears off after a couple of assemblies and so the slotting is much smoother.
Here's a copy of the instructions for those who missed it first time;
Hexagonal set up: Take one side panel and rotate it with the side prongs facing downwards. Slide on another 2 panels either side of this and then place the grills into the slots where you need them. Taking care to ensure the ‘front’ of the grill is on the opposite side of your first panel. Slide on a fourth and fifth panel on alternate sides, and then holding those two panels between your thumb and forefinger, ease the fire door into place. Please note, this will probably be a tight fit the first time you do this, to ensure the whole stove is one solid item. It will ease over time.
Square set up (Trangia): Take one side panel and rotate it with the prongs facing upwards. Slide on two other side panels, place the Trangia burner into the central slot (correct height for maximum efficiency), then slide on the door. Other options include, using two thin tent pegs, or a stiff foil, as a Coke Can burner support.
Sorry, but how can it be any clearer than that? Put 3 pieces together, add the base grill, slide on either side and drop on the door. Place the other grill on the top. ;-)
Come on guys, you're rufty tufty outdoor types who can survive starvation and natural disasters. Surely 7 bits of metal shouldn't be much of a challenge?
Putting the Hive together is an extension of the above. Place the first 5 panels together first, then slot in the base and add the rest. Don't forget to fill the kettle and have something to grill while you sit back and enjoy the view ;-)
All metal will warp when under intense heat. I've been using mine for 2 years now and the side panels and door have never warped. The base and the grill does warp (again its in the instructions) and this doesn't alter performance or the unit slotting together. I just leave it and the amount of warp reduces as it cools.
When testing I've had it full to the brim with BBQ fuel and just kept it going for over an hour glowing red hot, and apart from stuffing myself with several burgers, a trout, roasted sweetcorn and bannock bread, there's been no damage or change in performance.
Finally, airflow. You wouldn't believe how many base grill patterns I went through to adjust the airflow to match the capacity and fuel used. It is a very fine art and I was happy to achieve the balance I did. The reason the holes reduce towards the outside of the base is to allow coals to build up around the outside and maintain the density of the heat and thus help ignite fresh fuel when added to the heart of the fire. In the first design there was much more air passing through, and it burned far too rapidly. Very intense, but very quick.
When I went the opposite way, the fire starved and struggled to produce much heat. So it would linger and not be able to provide a consistent cooking heat. Fresh fuel wouldn't ignite and it was a pig to get going.
What I have noticed is the amount of fuel people use in the images I've seen around the net. If you look at my original videos you'll see the amount of fuel I used to boil a kettle. Literally two handfuls of twigs. Most of the images I see around have the stove rammed full of larger pieces. Of course it'll burn the fuel easily, but in actual fact if you are cooking on it, you don't need such an intense source. Maybe it was for sitting around afterwards.
I've been checking out the science of Wood Gas recently and although the Bush Cooker/Buddy concept is quiet elaborate (again see the video I did sometime ago about airflow) the reason the Honey is so efficient is that it might be using the same principle of reigniting the gas which is released off the charcoal, which mixes with air when is drawn through the upper side slots. I'm doing more work on this and if my calculations are correct another video will be done to explain it in more detail.
All in all guys, I tried to think this through as much as I could, seeking input from Bushcrafters as well as others, balancing needs and wants, with practicality and of course, cost. It is British Designed and I'm proud to say British Made. Its about time somebody stuck their neck out and starting making things in this country again.
