Falkniven F1 vs Woodlore Clone
- Thread starter jonnie drake
- Start date
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jonnie, all of the knives will do all of the tasks.
+1
in the end pick the one you like working with more
All mine are in 3mm (ish) and in the 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 " length. I have had 4mm and even 5mm convex in a 7" blade. Its useful as a "beater" at that length - but I pair with a "biter" (field scalpel).
I have come to like a 3mm 4" belt knife in a highish scandy grind. It works for me
Red
I have come to like a 3mm 4" belt knife in a highish scandy grind. It works for me
Red
cheers BR I prefer a scandi, I guess 3mm would be more useful- but I like the robustness of 4mm...
I prefer a scandi, I guess 3mm would be more useful- but I like the robustness of 4mm...
I've cut 30' of wet, gritty carpet off an 8' flail cutter with that puukko, slammed it through a 4" log and then planed down a sticking barn door with it Jonnie.
That'll do for me. Its some sort of fancy steel (cpm30v?). But whatever Ash does with it it holds a demon edge.
Red
That'll do for me. Its some sort of fancy steel (cpm30v?). But whatever Ash does with it it holds a demon edge.
Red
If it's in 3V, no wonder it keeps an edge....
And steel is CPM 3V
A question for Red
How have you found resharpening it, assuming of course that you have used it enough (without touching up) to have taken the working edge off it?
Kind regards
Mick
I was scabbing your photos of prototypes in a hurry Mate - thought it looked odd. I can't access my own flickr account from work weirdly so I have to hunt on here
Its not that pretty now either
Its not that pretty now either
A lot of people prefer scandi grinds, I have a number of them. I have the Mora knife (classic original) which is a good simple little knife, I have a Canadian belt knife (Cold Steel) that I am trialling out as I liked the Grohmann, but I also use Falkniven's. They are bomb proof and I do prefer them over a woodlore type clone.
Falkniven's (I have a number of them including the F1) give good quality steel, they hold an edge very well. If you handle the thing yourself then there are no whinges about the handle design (bearing in mind that the handle is designed for use in arctic temperatures wearing thick / heavy gloves). Yes they are designed for survival, but there are still plenty of things that you do in survival that you do in a bushcraft enviroment.
The bevels can be easily maintained on a Falkniven using a Hoodoo Hone (a thin cheap mouse mat with wet 'n dry stuck to it) so there is no difference from that and Mors's idea of mounting wet 'n dry on a piece of board or wood. No need for expensive sharpening systems. They are also easier to strop on a belt especially if it has compound on it.
Personal opinion, buy a blade blank, make the handle and sheath yourself. If you don't know how to make a sheath then there are tutorials out there or you can ask me how to make a sheath without power tools, I'll do you a tutorial and if you want a pattern for the sheath drop me a line and I'll send you a pattern of my design.
Falkniven's (I have a number of them including the F1) give good quality steel, they hold an edge very well. If you handle the thing yourself then there are no whinges about the handle design (bearing in mind that the handle is designed for use in arctic temperatures wearing thick / heavy gloves). Yes they are designed for survival, but there are still plenty of things that you do in survival that you do in a bushcraft enviroment.
The bevels can be easily maintained on a Falkniven using a Hoodoo Hone (a thin cheap mouse mat with wet 'n dry stuck to it) so there is no difference from that and Mors's idea of mounting wet 'n dry on a piece of board or wood. No need for expensive sharpening systems. They are also easier to strop on a belt especially if it has compound on it.
Personal opinion, buy a blade blank, make the handle and sheath yourself. If you don't know how to make a sheath then there are tutorials out there or you can ask me how to make a sheath without power tools, I'll do you a tutorial and if you want a pattern for the sheath drop me a line and I'll send you a pattern of my design.
If it's in 3V, no wonder it keeps an edge
A question for Red
How have you found resharpening it, assuming of course that you have used it enough (without touching up) to have taken the working edge off it?
Kind regards
Mick
It is a little more time consuming to sharpen, but it is as tough as old boots with great edge retention. Wheter thats the steel, the heat treat of the "Shinken magic" I know not.
I treat that puukko really, really badly. Thats the puppy I planed the barn door down with and sliced off wet gritty carpet that was wrapped around a flail cutter. Its become my "carry knife" for tough jobs around the small holding because it just shrugs off abuse. Anyone who thinks stick tangs are weak or that scandy grind is fragile need to spend some time digging out fencing staples with that knife - its a brute.
Red
Yup it is just a shame it is harder to get hold of in manageable sizes is a lot more expensive and is harder to heat treat.
I have one more billet of 3mm left.
Red i am Glad it is holding up well to abuse, my one of the same design is the same but a little big and thick for me, so i think i will keep that design for those that like larger knives and i am going to make another design that is smaller and more accurate and craft like. It is good to have feedback held things develop.
G'day Red
3V is certainly one of the toughest steels I have used
My question to you is: are you confusing the toughness of the 3V steel with the toughness of a zero ground scandi edge?
Because in my experience, zero ground scandi edges aren't that tough
Kind regards
Mick
3V is certainly one of the toughest steels I have used
My question to you is: are you confusing the toughness of the 3V steel with the toughness of a zero ground scandi edge?
Because in my experience, zero ground scandi edges aren't that tough
Kind regards
Mick
Depends entirely on the angle of grind I find. The puukko isn't zero ground though - it has a small secondary
Hey jonnie! (fancy seeing you here!)
I have a lovely custom F1 and a Bushy you are welcome to have a look at and have a play with among others, PM me either here or the other place and you can pop by if you like?
Cheers!
Marc
I have a lovely custom F1 and a Bushy you are welcome to have a look at and have a play with among others, PM me either here or the other place and you can pop by if you like?
Cheers!
Marc
You have a very broad definition of bushcraft. It is similar to the one I use.
If you want a good carving knife, then I would agree with Red and get a puukko. The design is much better for carving tasks, and neither the F1 not the Woodlore come close. The blades are just too thick and broad.
If on the other hand you want a knife that is good for battoning, carving, skinning, etc, I would say either knife is good. They provide you with a thicker and wider blade for those heavier tasks, and certainly make better skinners.
You might also consider getting a knife that is a bit larger. If you are going to do a lot more than just carving spoons, something like the S1 might be better. A 4 in blade makes a good carver when it is thin and narrow, but a 4 in thick blade is not as good of a splitter as a 5 in one. Just something to think about. A lot of the 4 in measurements come from the puukko design, but do not make much sense when you move to a blade that is a quarter of an inch thick.
If you want a good carving knife, then I would agree with Red and get a puukko. The design is much better for carving tasks, and neither the F1 not the Woodlore come close. The blades are just too thick and broad.
If on the other hand you want a knife that is good for battoning, carving, skinning, etc, I would say either knife is good. They provide you with a thicker and wider blade for those heavier tasks, and certainly make better skinners.
You might also consider getting a knife that is a bit larger. If you are going to do a lot more than just carving spoons, something like the S1 might be better. A 4 in blade makes a good carver when it is thin and narrow, but a 4 in thick blade is not as good of a splitter as a 5 in one. Just something to think about. A lot of the 4 in measurements come from the puukko design, but do not make much sense when you move to a blade that is a quarter of an inch thick.
If you feel the need for thicker than 3mm buy a prybar and a decent knife
I wish this was my own
I wish this was my own
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