The jobs I’ve done I used mostly two but once three sections of wood 2.4m long… and that was about the limit. The pole is getting heavy, it isn’t super rigid and the finesse to get the blade in the cut is getting tricky. Extra reach was obtained using a step ladder
In terms of saw I used my Bahco XT7 secured using four #75 rubber bands using the wrap and tuck method. It’s very similar to the Laplander, it’s a gardener’s saw for ‘general purpose’ namely hardwoods, fruit trees and vineyards.
Remember to wear eye protection, it will be snowing fine sawdust and you’ll be looking up.
I felt the Bahco was like a light sabre. This very sharp saw was able to cut through thick tree limbs with very little pressure. The biggest cut about 14 or 15 cm Beech.
I have a Samurai GC-330-LH and it’s a big step up. The Samurai will cut resiny trees like Cherry (I rate Cherry as the most challenging stickiest wood to cut) and storm damaged Pine. The Samurai will easily drop branches heavier than I want to pick up. With this saw, the ergonomics are absolutely lovely. Normally I have mouth foaming hatred of finger grooves, but this saw really got the ergonomics right. You can brush the branches away as if remove house dust with a painting brush. Such little force or pressure is needed and the saw keeps cutting deeper and deeper.
I’ve never owned or tried a Silky… I’m a little put off by the price, or rather the price for a complete package to match a Samurai. Plus the blades seem to snap or shatter more easily. I don’t feel I have a role for a Silky.
If I did jobs again, I’d use the Bahco because it smaller, lighter, older and has more wear on it. If I needed a replacement (a general purpose folding saw for use and ‘misuse’), I’d look at Samurai. I’ve put Opinel knives on a pole for removing litter and other tidying up. I don’t see the return from a specialist saw blade.
@TeeDee
Q1. Outside the box: Any thoughts on throwing a line over and using a double sided pocket chain saw?