Etching Metal
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I had a go tonight too! - but my camera dosn't like taking pictures at night! 
(something to do with being past its bed time or low light levels or something!
)
Anyway was supprised how easy it was - the hardest bir was getting the nail varnish off again...... In fact it coats so well I have a nice pink etch! lol
Being a chicken I tried it on a junk knife I have that I use for my fire steel so it now looks quite fetching!
I'll take a piccie tommorow all being well!
(something to do with being past its bed time or low light levels or something! )Anyway was supprised how easy it was - the hardest bir was getting the nail varnish off again...... In fact it coats so well I have a nice pink etch!
lolBeing a chicken I tried it on a junk knife I have that I use for my fire steel so it now looks quite fetching!
I'll take a piccie tommorow all being well!
shadow57 said:At last someone has done one...and it looks good too
L
Lost_Patrol
Guest
I used my wifes nail varnish remover and it came off in seconds. Maybe this was because the varnish didn't seem to set fully. The surface was hard but underneath it was still a little tacky - even after 2 hours. As I'm not a regular varnish user I don't know if this is normal
When I paint on the varnish I hold the blade near the fire to speed up the drying.
Takes only seconds to go brickhard
Takes only seconds to go brickhard
L
Lost_Patrol
Guest
Having had a play with this (Sorry, no pics, got carried awayBig John said:
) I would say yes, but you may find you'll get an undercut as the etching gets deeper
L
Lost_Patrol
Guest
I would agree with Motorbike Man. It just took a couple of minutes to etch mine and it was quite deep. If you etch for a long time, you could probably achieve any depth you need (providing you have enough cotton buds). I used a 12v alarm battery, but I don't know if a higher voltage you give a deeper etch.
It's a brilliant trick! Really easy with houshold materials. Marked my Letherman wave right away!
I agree with Motorbike Man, you will probably get an undercut with this method.
A similar process is used for high precision drilling in really hard materials (like turbine blades) and is called chemical drilling. In order to keep dimensions stable you then use a hollow probe as a conductor in stead of a cotton bud. The probe is coated on the outside so that the etching (drilling) is only realised at the tip. The acid (or salt water) is pumped through the probe and the probe is then slowly lowered through the metal.
It is not easy to do yourself at the kitchen table, but I hope this background info helps to understand the processes.
I agree with Motorbike Man, you will probably get an undercut with this method.
A similar process is used for high precision drilling in really hard materials (like turbine blades) and is called chemical drilling. In order to keep dimensions stable you then use a hollow probe as a conductor in stead of a cotton bud. The probe is coated on the outside so that the etching (drilling) is only realised at the tip. The acid (or salt water) is pumped through the probe and the probe is then slowly lowered through the metal.
It is not easy to do yourself at the kitchen table, but I hope this background info helps to understand the processes.
BobFromHolland said:
So perhaps a small insulated electricians screwdriver, with the tip ground away till it's level with the insulation might work. You'd have to scrape some more insulation away further up as somewhere to attach the other electrode.
I feel a project coming on.....
Ogri the trog
Ogri the trog said:
You could also try to nail-polish the side of a peice of (copper) cable.
I guess you would then need a complete droplet of salt water on your knife. Mind that the corrosion will 'eat' from both the knife and the electrode, so you will need to regularly sand the electrode tip and refresh the salt water. The hard part is to keep a small distance between electrode and knife. If you make contact you'll create a short circuit that is hard on the battery, but doesn't etch.
Best of luck!
Bob
a very neat trick. Have just spent a few hours etching an endless knot onto both sides of my latest attempt at a scandi. Will pop some pictures up in the next couple of days when i've finished the sheath.
:You_Rock_
:You_Rock_
Excellent post Shadow57 and well done to those who have succeeded, very impressive.
I'll try and have a go at this when I find some time, I was toying with the idea of an engraving tool for my Dremmel but this is a good alternative. Never thought about etching
Bootstrap
I'll try and have a go at this when I find some time, I was toying with the idea of an engraving tool for my Dremmel but this is a good alternative. Never thought about etching
Bootstrap
Do you think that this would work with other metals eg Alluminium and Brass?
i.e. could I etch my name on my trangia?
Two days later...
Well yes you can sort of! usintg the method above exactly as it is you end up with a reasonable etch, except it comes out aluminium coloured!
Once you know its there then its reasonably obvious but it doesn't leap out at you like it does on steel. Its reasonably deep but I reckon that I could sand it off in in a few minutes although this would weaken the stove. I would show a picture but its got my name and post code on it!
As part of my job I used to etch printed circuit boards and used indellible ink pens for resist which allowed very delicate track layouts. For my next experiment I am going to try a band of celtic knot pattern by drawing the bits I want left with the pen, leaving the bits to be etched exposed. I will probably use tape to protect the border.
This time I will take a photo unless nothing at all happens in which case I won;t bother
i.e. could I etch my name on my trangia?
Two days later...
Well yes you can sort of! usintg the method above exactly as it is you end up with a reasonable etch, except it comes out aluminium coloured!
Once you know its there then its reasonably obvious but it doesn't leap out at you like it does on steel. Its reasonably deep but I reckon that I could sand it off in in a few minutes although this would weaken the stove. I would show a picture but its got my name and post code on it!
As part of my job I used to etch printed circuit boards and used indellible ink pens for resist which allowed very delicate track layouts. For my next experiment I am going to try a band of celtic knot pattern by drawing the bits I want left with the pen, leaving the bits to be etched exposed. I will probably use tape to protect the border.
This time I will take a photo unless nothing at all happens in which case I won;t bother
I had a go on some stainless steel and it works great, :notworthy but the etching did not blacken. I'm rehandling/modifying a Puma knife and tried on the tang to check the results.
I was surprised how agressive it was - after about 5 minutes the depth of etch was significant (more than could be ground out) so I would advise newbies like me to use a test piece first. I wondered whether this might be the salt concentration that made it react quicker - any thoughts?
I was surprised how agressive it was - after about 5 minutes the depth of etch was significant (more than could be ground out) so I would advise newbies like me to use a test piece first. I wondered whether this might be the salt concentration that made it react quicker - any thoughts?
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