If you live in Britain
In my opinion a cotton jacket and woolly pully is best.
A windproof, slightly water resistant, breathable top layer with all your insulation worn underneath in layers. Probably wool.
Army surplus is usually pretty good, a lot of people tend to think camouflage but you can find a lot of smart civvie looking gear.
Many military jackets are a tight weave cotton with removable liners and treated with DWR.
May even be able to find ventile fabrics.
Old army surplus is the way to go for wool field jackets and greatcoats too.
My particular favourite woolly pully is the swiss army pull over, nice neutral grey colour, very thick, nice quality wool, had one for years, wear it all the time.
Alternatively german and british army "commando" style jumpers can be picked up in like new condition for about 5 quid.
Full set of army surplus waterproofs in new nick of good quality goretex can be found for cheap. British army stuff is good tough stuff.
I don't usually wear waterproofs unless I really have to though, I dont bother with them for day to day wear, a cotton jacket and woolly pully is good enough for all but the worst weather but if im in the outdoors for a long time then a poncho or some lightweight waterproofs will be in the bag. You dont wanna sweat out in plastics. It's minging, even in the "breathable" stuff.
I think buying surplus may be the best way to go,ethnically and ecologically sound as youre basically recycling and not contributing to the manufacture of a new garment and they're mostly of natural fabrics (better than any polyester or nylon in my opinion, in terms of comfort and environment), very good prices for the gear you get.
I saw somewhere on the forum that at one point lk35 backpacks were more than 500 deutsche mark minimum when they first came out, in todays money converted to british pounds thats about £230 (of course may not be wholly accurate convertion not having the old exchange rates) but they can now be picked up for £15 in grade 2. £30 in as new condition.
Theres really good quality and sometimes very unique stuff to be found on surplus shelves.
The cheap price means you can also get away with DIY projects if you want to, for example i waxed an old czech m85 winter parka, It worked well but i got the wax a bit uneven in some places then decided I didnt like the end result lol rustled too much and got sweaty. Cost me 7 quid, new condition. Still got the jacket now, wear it to work when the weathers really cold and wet but wouldve been unhappy if id ruined an expensive jacket.
Also an alternative to wool mid layers you can pick up cheap quilted cotton or poly cotton flannel workshirts for a few quid, was getting all the clothes out the washing machine and hanging up all the soaking wet stuff but picked mine up and put it straight on as it felt dry, you could almost wring out the t-shirts but this was only very slightly damp, but due to its loftiness and thin material, warmed up and dried out in no time at all.
No brand workshirt picked up in a outdoor shop for about a tenner. Good winter layer. Loft fills up my gorka coat and between the loft and the windproof design of the gorka you got a 10/10 cold weather combo. Space underneath for wool baselayer and thin fleece pyjama jumper too.
Wow sorry for the essay guys honestly didnt realise how much I was rambling
Image is the swiss pullover
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