For my first edged tool that i make, id like to have a go at making a chisel, i like using them with wood, and think they are really good for fine craft.
have any of you made your own?
have any of you made your own?
do you use chisels?
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Have a google for Dave Budd, he does that sort of thing and I think I remember some pics on his website.
Hi,
There is a guy in the 'States called Barr Quarton (you can find him via a Google search). He makes some superb edged tools including framing chisels and a tool called a slick which is a long meaty chisel, worked by hand only and is much beloved of timber framers and boat builders.
If you are seeking inspiration then look no further.
Tack
There is a guy in the 'States called Barr Quarton (you can find him via a Google search). He makes some superb edged tools including framing chisels and a tool called a slick which is a long meaty chisel, worked by hand only and is much beloved of timber framers and boat builders.
If you are seeking inspiration then look no further.
Tack
A chisel (and a punch) is/are one of the first cutting tools they used to teach kids how to make in the old high school shop classes. Start with a short section of tool steel round rod, heat the end up with a torch, and hammer the end into the shape you need. Then heat treat it and test it.
I've made many chisels and punches for my blacksmithing work. You make the tool you need at the time. But I've also made a number of wood working tools. A few years ago, I replicated some Viking era woodworking tools for a friend - a draw knife, a scorp, several gimlets, and several spoon drill bits. And I've made a number of bowl adzes - including two I made today. Of course, I've also made a number of axe heads - including an all wrought iron head today, a replica of a late 1600's French trade axe.
The hardest part is getting the heat-treat right. Hard enough to hold an edge well, but not too brittle.
A lot of people make very small chisels out of large "cement" nails. These look like the old hand forged nails, but are modern machine made. They have a high carbon content, and come already heat-treated hard - so that you can pound them into cement when attaching your wood wall. If you grind the end carefully, and cool it often, you can make a small chisel without any forging or heat treating.
There's a couple good tutorials on the http://www.iforge.com/ web site. Lots of step by step blacksmithing projects. Also check out www.anvilfire.com They've got some good info and links for forging and heat treating.
Good luck on your project. But, as I always warn people ...
Blacksmithing IS ADDICTIVE!
Just my humble thoughts to share. Take them as such.
Mike - out in the Hinterlands
I've made many chisels and punches for my blacksmithing work. You make the tool you need at the time. But I've also made a number of wood working tools. A few years ago, I replicated some Viking era woodworking tools for a friend - a draw knife, a scorp, several gimlets, and several spoon drill bits. And I've made a number of bowl adzes - including two I made today. Of course, I've also made a number of axe heads - including an all wrought iron head today, a replica of a late 1600's French trade axe.
The hardest part is getting the heat-treat right. Hard enough to hold an edge well, but not too brittle.
A lot of people make very small chisels out of large "cement" nails. These look like the old hand forged nails, but are modern machine made. They have a high carbon content, and come already heat-treated hard - so that you can pound them into cement when attaching your wood wall. If you grind the end carefully, and cool it often, you can make a small chisel without any forging or heat treating.
There's a couple good tutorials on the http://www.iforge.com/ web site. Lots of step by step blacksmithing projects. Also check out www.anvilfire.com They've got some good info and links for forging and heat treating.
Good luck on your project. But, as I always warn people ...
Blacksmithing IS ADDICTIVE!
Just my humble thoughts to share. Take them as such.
Mike - out in the Hinterlands
Hello 
yep I make chisels (and any other edged tool that I'm asked for ) But unlike those that Mike mentions I make them with socketed handles, like in the picture. Sockets are more tricky to make, but the result is a stronger tool and one that is easier to re handle The angle of the socket can be made as per the users' wishes
yep I make chisels (and any other edged tool that I'm asked for
) But unlike those that Mike mentions I make them with socketed handles, like in the picture. Sockets are more tricky to make, but the result is a stronger tool and one that is easier to re handle The angle of the socket can be made as per the users' wishes
This will be my first project, Im presuming i need the tang to go right the way through the handle, so it has strength when struck?
Im still a long way off starting yet, as i like to plan things first.
Thankyou for your posts guys, they were very interesting..
Im still a long way off starting yet, as i like to plan things first.
Thankyou for your posts guys, they were very interesting..
nope, most chisels only have a tang of 2" tops. Even the large 3" wide slicks that timber framers use! (though they do tend to break out and they get me to draw teh tangs out and make them new handles 
)
Make sure you have a washer or thicker piece of metal to act as a bolster. It fits at teh shoulder of the tang/blade to stop the handle form splitting. Also it's a good idea to put a ferrule at either end of the handle if you plan to do a lot of beating on it
)Make sure you have a washer or thicker piece of metal to act as a bolster. It fits at teh shoulder of the tang/blade to stop the handle form splitting. Also it's a good idea to put a ferrule at either end of the handle if you plan to do a lot of beating on it
wouldent say beating, just for light woodcraft (splitting wood and such), would you recomend 1 edge or have a 3 edged tool (2 up the sides)
Currently the best and most usefull chisels I own (I am a carpenter so own a fair few chisels) are two of the Axeminster all steel chisels that rather unsurprisingly enough are just made from steel.
I don't have to worry about really beating them with my metal hammer, I can lever things with them and as I have two the same I have one kept sharp and another that I don't bother as much with so its not the end of the world if it hits a nail sometimes.
Great for big timbers and I reckon they would be simpler to make.
Honestly, buy one and you will be surprised at how much use you get out of them
I have not tried any Japanese chisels yet and for second fix work I might yet get some but those all steel ones are king for firstfix and traditional roof timbers.
They really can take some abuse.
I cannot abide chisels that need to be used with a mallet as I have never even seen a carpenter that has a mallet in his toolbox, its usually an Estwing or nowt.
Just about everyone who has used one of them asks where they can buy one.
I don't have to worry about really beating them with my metal hammer, I can lever things with them and as I have two the same I have one kept sharp and another that I don't bother as much with so its not the end of the world if it hits a nail sometimes.
Great for big timbers and I reckon they would be simpler to make.
Honestly, buy one and you will be surprised at how much use you get out of them
I have not tried any Japanese chisels yet and for second fix work I might yet get some but those all steel ones are king for firstfix and traditional roof timbers.
They really can take some abuse.
I cannot abide chisels that need to be used with a mallet as I have never even seen a carpenter that has a mallet in his toolbox, its usually an Estwing or nowt.
Just about everyone who has used one of them asks where they can buy one.
If you have a ring on the back end or you don't mind replacing the odd handle, then you can normally use a hammer witha good hardwood handle anyway. As Demographic says, most professionals don't follow 'best practice' rules, I sure don't!
As for the edges up the sides or not. The bevels are not sharp, only the front end is sharp. The bevels are to allow more clearance when carving, but the flat sided firmer chisels are easier to make and until pretty recently was the standard chisel pattern.
I don't do a lot of work with chisels (though this is going to change come the autumn), but I own a few. My favourites are all my own work (but that's mostly coz the others are cheap and nasty, so have plastic handles that shatter adn steel that won't hold an edge). I have a tanged firmer chisel of 3/8" wide with a hickory handle, 1" socketed firmer chisel with a bit of hazel stick shoved int eh end (needed a 1" chisel quick, so took blade that was made for stock and shoved stick on the end rather than spending 10 mins to make a proper one). Then I have a 1 1/4" beveld chisel (socketed) with yew handle, this is my least favourite chisel so far.
I think it depends what you use it for and how well you can use it, not being a chippy I can't really comment too far on that! with teh hammer vs mallet debate I tend to use a mallet (wood or rawhide, whatever is nearest) with the nicer handled ones and the rest of the time anything that comes to hand of teh right weight for the job. So for carving letters in a sign i just made, I used a 2lb rawhide mallet (with the stick handeled chisel). Seemed to work for me at the time, but I'm sure it's not the 'proper' way to do it
As for the edges up the sides or not. The bevels are not sharp, only the front end is sharp. The bevels are to allow more clearance when carving, but the flat sided firmer chisels are easier to make and until pretty recently was the standard chisel pattern.
I don't do a lot of work with chisels (though this is going to change come the autumn), but I own a few. My favourites are all my own work (but that's mostly coz the others are cheap and nasty, so have plastic handles that shatter adn steel that won't hold an edge). I have a tanged firmer chisel of 3/8" wide with a hickory handle, 1" socketed firmer chisel with a bit of hazel stick shoved int eh end (needed a 1" chisel quick, so took blade that was made for stock and shoved stick on the end rather than spending 10 mins to make a proper one). Then I have a 1 1/4" beveld chisel (socketed) with yew handle, this is my least favourite chisel so far.
I think it depends what you use it for and how well you can use it, not being a chippy I can't really comment too far on that! with teh hammer vs mallet debate I tend to use a mallet (wood or rawhide, whatever is nearest) with the nicer handled ones and the rest of the time anything that comes to hand of teh right weight for the job. So for carving letters in a sign i just made, I used a 2lb rawhide mallet (with the stick handeled chisel). Seemed to work for me at the time, but I'm sure it's not the 'proper' way to do it
Not being a carpenter either, as I understand it, it really depends on the type of carpentry you are doing. As demographic says, if you are on a building site, knocking out general joinery then an all steel chisel and a big hammer are fine. At the other end of the spectrum, cabinet makers avoid using anything at all and rely entirely on the sharpness of the chisel. I recall seeing advice that you shouldn't hit the ones with side bevels with anything, though I don't really understand how you could break one (but I guess you must be able to else the advice wouldn't be there...)
Yep as others have mentioned it really does depend on what you intend on doing with the chisels.
I have a set of Marples bevelled edge chisels for second fix work (chopping hinges into casings/doors and locks and so on ad infinitum) and as long as I keep them sharp the fact that they only have acrylic handles (the still get hit with a claw hammer though) has not been a problem yet but theres some made by Stanley called the contractor range with a striker button on the end.
If I were to buy new chisels I would go for the stanley ones as the striker button is a good solution to the problem of chisel handles breaking.
Were it not for the fact that Japanese chisels being dodgy sizes/widths I would be more tempted by them but many lock face plates are made in at 3/4" and 1" widths, fine if you have English or US chisels that come in those sizes but needing more chisel cuts if you have slightly narrower Japanese chisels, time is money so they don't get used.
That's a shame because I feel that they have got round the problem of needing a mallet for wooden handled chisels by using a steel hoop to stop the handle splitting.
If only they came in inch sizes
On a side note, firmer chisels and registered mortice chisels are very good and without doubt strong but if you plan on using them for cutting dovetails you need something with a bevelled edge.
If I were a cabinet maker I am sure this would be a different story though and sometimes just looking through the Dick GmbH catalogue gives me serious chisel envy but when the catalogue starts waffling on about chisels whose inner life is greater than the sum of their parts I switch the bull**** detector off cos I don't want to overload it, really nice chisels but please don't guild the lilly too much.
If anyone wonders why no site carpenter I know uses a mallet you might want to try and hang a mallet off your hammer loop on your tool belt...
Its just not happening.
Bench joiners and cabinet makers are a different story though as they often just have their tools on/under their bench and don't need to carry them about all the time so they do use mallets.
I have a set of Marples bevelled edge chisels for second fix work (chopping hinges into casings/doors and locks and so on ad infinitum) and as long as I keep them sharp the fact that they only have acrylic handles (the still get hit with a claw hammer though) has not been a problem yet but theres some made by Stanley called the contractor range with a striker button on the end.
If I were to buy new chisels I would go for the stanley ones as the striker button is a good solution to the problem of chisel handles breaking.
Were it not for the fact that Japanese chisels being dodgy sizes/widths I would be more tempted by them but many lock face plates are made in at 3/4" and 1" widths, fine if you have English or US chisels that come in those sizes but needing more chisel cuts if you have slightly narrower Japanese chisels, time is money so they don't get used.
That's a shame because I feel that they have got round the problem of needing a mallet for wooden handled chisels by using a steel hoop to stop the handle splitting.
If only they came in inch sizes
On a side note, firmer chisels and registered mortice chisels are very good and without doubt strong but if you plan on using them for cutting dovetails you need something with a bevelled edge.
If I were a cabinet maker I am sure this would be a different story though and sometimes just looking through the Dick GmbH catalogue gives me serious chisel envy but when the catalogue starts waffling on about chisels whose inner life is greater than the sum of their parts
I switch the bull**** detector off cos I don't want to overload it, really nice chisels but please don't guild the lilly too much.If anyone wonders why no site carpenter I know uses a mallet you might want to try and hang a mallet off your hammer loop on your tool belt...
Its just not happening.
Bench joiners and cabinet makers are a different story though as they often just have their tools on/under their bench and don't need to carry them about all the time so they do use mallets.
If I were to buy a chisel for wood craft and carving etc... I'd buy one of Budd's chisels.
The pictoure of the chisel sais it. You could probably contact him and tell him excactly what you'd want and he'd make it. For a few extra dollars, jee.
You can't buy a name bran chisel that compares to a well made chisel that is made by hand.
I bet you his chisel holds an excellent edge, better than anything you can buy and he'd show you how to sharpen it.
I make chisels but I stick to framing chisels, large timber tools. As the big trees dissappear around here so will our tools I suppose.
A 3" socket fit framing slick handle that has a tang 2" beyond the socket, 4" in all, won't break. In fact we guarantee them for life. Big chisels with a 4/5 or full tang is a log home builder's tool. They can wail on them with a framing hammer, pry with them, basically abuse the heck out of them. The guarantee is adusted for those though .
Bench chisels are nice with full tangs.
Scott
http://www.caribooblades.com
The pictoure of the chisel sais it. You could probably contact him and tell him excactly what you'd want and he'd make it. For a few extra dollars, jee.
You can't buy a name bran chisel that compares to a well made chisel that is made by hand.
I bet you his chisel holds an excellent edge, better than anything you can buy and he'd show you how to sharpen it.
I make chisels but I stick to framing chisels, large timber tools. As the big trees dissappear around here so will our tools I suppose.
A 3" socket fit framing slick handle that has a tang 2" beyond the socket, 4" in all, won't break. In fact we guarantee them for life. Big chisels with a 4/5 or full tang is a log home builder's tool. They can wail on them with a framing hammer, pry with them, basically abuse the heck out of them. The guarantee is adusted for those though .
Bench chisels are nice with full tangs.
Scott
http://www.caribooblades.com
If I were to buy a chisel for wood craft and carving etc... I'd buy one of Budd's chisels.
The pictoure of the chisel sais it. You could probably contact him and tell him excactly what you'd want and he'd make it. For a few extra dollars, jee.
You can't buy a name bran chisel that compares to a well made chisel that is made by hand.
I bet you his chisel holds an excellent edge, better than anything you can buy and he'd show you how to sharpen it.
I make chisels but I stick to framing chisels, large timber tools. As the big trees dissappear around here so will our tools I suppose.
A 3" socket fit framing slick handle that has a tang 2" beyond the socket, 4" in all, won't break. In fact we guarantee them for life. Big chisels with a 4/5 or full tang is a log home builder's tool. They can wail on them with a framing hammer, pry with them, basically abuse the heck out of them. The guarantee is adusted for those though .
Bench chisels are nice with full tangs.
Scott
http://www.caribooblades.com
Hi Scott.
I spotted that slick on your website a while ago (well at least I spotted that you made slicks anyway) and its awfully nice, I notice you say that the guarantee is adjusted for those who use a framing hammer, by my understanding a slick is to be used against the shoulder and not hit with a hammer.
I take it that you say that if you batter it with a hammer then the handle is your (well the owners) problem?
A slick is one of those tools I want to find the excuse to buy but never quite manage to justify.
Regards Scott.
A little confusing aye.
They wouldn't bang on a slick just heavy duty full tang hooped chisels
I try and accomodate log builders by hardening and tempering a slice of dtive shaft socket for the hoop and use staight grain apple or acacia for the handles.
This style is indestructable.
They wouldn't bang on a slick just heavy duty full tang hooped chisels
I try and accomodate log builders by hardening and tempering a slice of dtive shaft socket for the hoop and use staight grain apple or acacia for the handles.
This style is indestructable.
Funnily enough Scott, I've got a 3" slick on the go for a customer at the moment (allong with a large froe and a small drawknife!) It's the socketed variety. I tend to use riven ash for my slick handles and box or yew for the chisels, though any good dense wood works for the smaller tools.
I tend not to keep a great range of tools in tock coz I make most of them to order so if somebody wanted a 13mm chisel rather than a 15mm then it's not a problem as I haven't made the tool yet
(allong with a large froe and a small drawknife!) It's the socketed variety. I tend to use riven ash for my slick handles and box or yew for the chisels, though any good dense wood works for the smaller tools. I tend not to keep a great range of tools in tock coz I make most of them to order
so if somebody wanted a 13mm chisel rather than a 15mm then it's not a problem as I haven't made the tool yet Similar threads
