Odd question.
From the Fallkniven website...
http://www.fallkniven.com/misc/eng-sharp.htm
The diamond/ceramic whetstones DC3 and DC4.
We're happy to present something everyone has been waiting for - a combination diamond/ceramic whetstone that will handle all your sharpening needs. The newly-developed DC3 and DC4 whetstones consist of a fine diamond stone (25 micron) and a very special ceramic stone, made of synthetic sapphires. The advantage of these materials, although they get worn, will still keep their flat shape this is important when you sharpen your knife. And, since these materials are the hardest we know of, they will sharpen any steel, even these extremely hard powder steels. You don't need any lubrication for these stone but now and then you should consider cleaning them with warm water and liquid soap. The stones might feel coarse from the start but will become smoother/better after some use. A leather pouch is included.
Anyway...
I am sure you have noticed that the diamond grit is coarser than the ceramic. 25 micron is a little finer than P600 grit and is equivalent to the US grit 600. This is the same as the red DMT hones. Ceramic stones are harder to judge, but common wisdom suggests that the DC4 is around 1000grit equivalent. Call it 1000-1200. This is similar to most of the "Fine" ceramics out there.
If you want a bench stone in ceramic, even a cursory search of google shows you have a number to choose from. The main ones being Spyderco, who do two grades, and Shapton do a whole range of their glass backed sharpeners. See:
http://www.dick.biz/dick/product/711602/detail.jsf;jsessionid=4F5DC44D971D27AAFAA74EB570DF2AFC
I am surprised though that you are limiting yourself to ceramic, and that you find that your waterstones do not perform. I use waterstones even on S30V and though diamond does work faster, the synthetic water stones still put a sharp edge on it, and they work fantastically well on O-1 and similar steels. Hardness of the steel isn't a problem.
The only reason that I don't like wet and dry paper for bench work is that it wears down and is a pain to keep flatish. Ceramic DOES stay flat and makes little mess, but otherwise waterstones, ceramics or diamond are all about the same for most tools. I have found that when sufficiently practiced, most things will work equally well for putting an edge on a given blade, assuming equivalent grit size. The difference is in speed, mess and how fast they wear down in the process, all of which are objective characteristics and independent of who is using them. The only time its worth being picky is when you need to sharpen a lot of high alloy steels.
My 2p.
and neither are the big cooking knives, and there's no wear to be seen on the bakestone 
