Cutting firewood - some tools and tips - picc heavy

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,888
2,141
Mercia
We have been discussing wood burning stoves for home use and firewood a good deal given the season, so I thought a few pictures of how I render wood might be interesting. I don't plan to show large trunk sectioning or felling techniques here – just some of the tools useful for ground work and how to use them.

First up, I am going to use a chainsaw and other cutting gear. For me that means suiting up with PPE. Chainsaw accidents without protection are the kind of mistakes you only make once, so lets not mess about with this!

I use a “bib and brace” style set of trousers and a chainsaw jacket


1) Chainsaw Suit by British Red, on Flickr

To top this off I’ll wear a helmet with visor and ear protectors, chainsaw gloves and steel toe capped safety boots


2) Other PPE by British Red, on Flickr

Suitably dressed and looking like a fluorescent gimp (but a safe one) we go out and confront the frozen logpile. A lot of this is “green” wood and needs time to season out, but I also have some dry stuff under cover


3) My log stack by British Red, on Flickr

Dry stuff once cut and split goes into the wood shed. Note that the shed is floored out with old pallets – this keeps the split wood off the floor and lets a breeze in underneath. This shed isn’t ideal – it needs less walls to get a breeze through, an I will be building a better one for seasoning as time permits


4) The wood shed by British Red, on Flickr

Tools wise I will be using an electric chainsaw with a 14” bar. I have petrol saws as well and they are invaluable where there is no power. For this sort of processing though, electric saws are lighter and a lot less hassle when you are constantly picking up logs and putting down the saw.

I will also use a bunch of hand tools – A 6lb maul, 6lb sledge hammer, steel wedges, 3lb axe and a pry bar


5) Hand tools by British Red, on Flickr

Getting ready to cut, the first thing I do is to set up my cutting yard making sure I have plenty of room to work, no trip hazards or slip hazards ( a real problem in the snow & ice).


6) The cutting yard by British Red, on Flickr

First I’m going to section up an awkward piece of a medium trunk, I’ll use my large saw horse for this. This horse has some features I particularly like. Multiple supports mean I can work alone and not need to keep moving the log – I can make multiple cuts and the pieces stay supported. Notice also that there is “sacrificial” wood on the horizontal bar. If the saw blade goes too far, it hits wood – not metal!


7) Large saw bench by British Red, on Flickr

I don’t propose to show how to maintain or operate a chainsaw in this article – I believe the best place to learn this is with hands on instructions on a proper course. I will explain why I am making the cuts I am doing though.

Here is our awkward log – these Y shapes can be very tricky


8) Large log by British Red, on Flickr

Thankfully the gripper plates on the large bench mean I can support this piece with one limb upwards. The first thing to do is to remove the smaller limb to give a straightish trunk


9) Limb off by British Red, on Flickr

I can then take rounds off each end leaving just the awkward “V” section


10) Sectioned down by British Red, on Flickr

The rounds can be split into useful stove sized pieces using the maul


11) Maul Work by British Red, on Flickr

Sometimes you encounter a piece too large or with awkward grain and the maul won’t split it. In this circumstance, insert a steel wedge into the cut made with the maul


12) Fitting a wedge by British Red, on Flickr

The wedge is pounded in with the sledge hammer. Eventually a crack will form. If the section is very wide or stubborn, an additional wedge can be inserted further along the crack and the wedges pounded alternately. I have used up to four wedges to split rounds several feet across


13) Driven wedge by British Red, on Flickr

We are now left with the V section. Where large limbs meet like this, splitting is very difficult as the grain runs in multiple directions


14) V Section by British Red, on Flickr

The easiest way to deal with this is to saw through the log at the join of the V


15) Sawn V by British Red, on Flickr

The divided piece can then be split, but start from the side furthest from the join leaving the awkward wiggly grain as a lump.


16) Maul from good side by British Red, on Flickr

There we have it – the awkward Y piece rendered


17) Rendered Wood by British Red, on Flickr

Having rendered some large wood, I have some smaller stuff to cut as well. For this I prefer my smaller portable saw horse


18) Light saw bench by British Red, on Flickr

This bench is equipped with a spring tensioned safety chain – you can probably see a spring, chain and handle at the bottom left of the picture above. Here’s a close up


19) Spring, chain and bar by British Red, on Flickr

The chain is wrapped under the log pulling on the spring. The handle passes through one of the links of the chain


20) Safety chain engaged by British Red, on Flickr

The end of the handle locks into one of several teeth as shown below


21) Safety chain locking bar by British Red, on Flickr

This chain clamps down the log and prevents it toppling off the horse after cuts. This allows more cuts to be made without re-positioning the log


22) Supported log by British Red, on Flickr

These smaller rounds can be burned whole, but are quickly split with a 3lb axe. Splitting them allows them to dry more quickly and stack more easily.


23) Axe splitting by British Red, on Flickr

I hope this might provide some ideas on useful equipment and techniques for processing firewood.

Red
 

treelore

Nomad
Jan 4, 2008
299
0
45
Northamptonshire
good tread and a well thought out process...only thing i would change is i would'nt have paid for a chainsaw protective top, but spend the money on some chainsaw wellys or boots. ;)
 

g4ghb

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 21, 2005
4,323
247
55
Wiltshire
Oooo - A Hugh tutorial! - wouldn't be Christmas without one! ;)

Thanks mate, as always a great demonstration of how to do a job properly!
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,888
2,141
Mercia
good tread and a well thought out process...only thing i would change is i would'nt have paid for a chainsaw protective top, but spend the money on some chainsaw wellys or boots. ;)

I must get some proper chainsaw boots - to save freezing my toes off in those old steel capped wellie if nothing else!
 

treelore

Nomad
Jan 4, 2008
299
0
45
Northamptonshire
buxtons are great ...go for husqu's they are about £41 pounds, also Stanton Hope are pritty good too. you can spent an extra £11 and get metal studs that screww in the boot sole..great for in the snow and ice ;)
 

dave53

On a new journey
Jan 30, 2010
2,993
11
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wales
thanks for the post red you learn somthing new everyday on this forum i loves it i do regards dave
 

Dave Budd

Gold Trader
Staff member
Jan 8, 2006
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www.davebudd.com
something that I've started using that has sped up my log cutting and made the whole chainsawing lark safer is a sawhorse what has the chainsaw mounted on it. NorthernTools has one VERY cheaply and over the last week I've probably cut half a ton of oak, ash and birch with my 16" saw mounted on it. Its quick to set up and very safe to use!

this is the thing
18423E.jpg


it comes with a safety guard and a bar that marks the length of your log, so you can cut to the right size without guessing. Granted I'm lazy and I didn't fit the red guard or the measuring bar, but I can still do away with my chainsaw trousers and can use ear defenders and goggles instead of the helmet ;)
 
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British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,888
2,141
Mercia
So will this wood be seasoned in time for next year red?

The stuff I'm cutting and stacking there is already seasoned (spent two years in a barn). The stuff in the big pile covered in snow I want to get cut and split for next winter. Its mostly ash so will burn green but I'll get better heat out of it seasoned. I do have a moisture meter (very cheap thing) so I can assess any wood I have stacked or might be buying to check if its dry

Johhny,

The dry split stuff is inside the shed stacked on pallets here

5243677315_5c8c029a9d_z.jpg


The unprocessed rest is up off the ground with a tarp over the top (but not the sides).

Current woodshed is about the size of a double garage, but its really not big enough to store three years rotation so I intend to construct something out of a barn that needs a new roof given time

Red
 

filcon

"Neo-eisimeileachd ALBA"
Dec 1, 2005
846
0
64
Strathclyde
You have a great set up there pal, even down to the fire brigade wellies. I,ve got most of your wood cutting equipment, may I recommend you try a grenade.They are great for crashing wheels, wedges are better at trunks. Try toolstation.

cheers phil
 

Osprey

Forager
Nov 21, 2006
211
3
65
Aberdeenshire
Great post B R, thanks for that, I have a similar set-up, but up here in the North of Scotland I can only get softwood logs, which are a lot simpler to processs ! I can second filcon's suggestiion of a grenade.
Cheers,
Doug.
 
Great post, BR :)

I must get a sawing horse - currently using a large log round with a V notch across the top...

Has anyone tried any of the cantilever type of sawing horse, like this or this?

Opinions? The Sawjaw design looks fairly easy to build given access to the timber (which I have) and the steel jaws (which I can make up at work).
 

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