What sort of info are you after exactly? Safety info or how-tos, etc?
All in all I treat Antler largely how I treat wood - I would recommend a dust mask, not least because the dust reeks. For the same reason it's best to do work outside or in a workshop/garage out of the house, though I imagine a grinder with a shop vac would be ok. I don't personally wear a mask due to the irony of taking off a dust mask to take a puff of a cigarette, but that's just me.
It works a bit more like plastic than wood, gets soft when heated in water (or brittle when heated dry) and takes a good polish. It can be split lengthways, as wood, though without the clearly visible grain of wood it's a bit harder to predict and control. In the same vein, in my experience, it tends to split all of a sudden rather than gradually, so there's no time to correct the split. To make pendants I split pieces off rather than saw them, which works fine for short sections. And use a finer-toothed saw like a hacksaw.
For finishing, superglue works good to fill the core and will prevent it softening with moisture or trapping in bacteria and smelling. No treatment is strictly required for the surface, though if there's any texture I find a very light rub-over with linseed oil helps to remove any loose dust left from sanding. I do the same for buffalo horn.
For stick tang knife handles, the antler can be put in boiling water to soften the core, then the tang can be pushed into it. In the past I've found this acceptable as the sole form of adhesion, as it grips pretty tight when done, but you could also use it as a pilot hole for further drilling, or rivet the end of the tang as well (use a bolster and pommel though or you might split the antler) to get a stronger fit. Whatever way you do it, the core "should" be sealed when dry.
Personally, I don't scrub/bleach antler if I'm going to be leaving the surface texture on. I like to polish the raised spots and leave the rest as-is.
Hope that helps,
Pete
