Crook Knives & Spyderco Sharpmaker..?

[HeltorChasca]

I’ve wracked my brains and tried my best to find a way by myself before bothering you lot; but I give up and I’m going for broke by dipping into the font of knowledge available here on BKUK.

I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker which I find incredibly useful and I get “bald left” arm results on all my knives every time.

I also have a Frosts Mora double edged crook knife (162) and a shallow crook knife (163) which I am very happy with.

I would like to get a symbiotic relationship going between the crook knives and my Spyderco Sharpmaker. Trouble is I’m finding any method pretty difficult (short of dulling them). Does anyone have experience or the know-how to sharpen their crook knives with their Spyderco?

It would be very useful to me without splashing out on a whetstone.

Many thanks……hc

 

[JonathanD]

I use the rods freehand for touching up. Not ideal though. You could use the rods mounted flat in the underside of the base and use that like a whetstone.

 

[FGYT]

just use a bit of wood batton 1" wide and wrap wet and dry on it and use like a file take it up to 40 - 600 gt then usea piece of leather with polish on it

ho DO NOT try it on your arm you will take skin off if doen right

ATB

Duncan

 

[HeltorChasca]

just use a bit of wood batton 1" wide and wrap wet and dry on it and use like a file take it up to 40 - 600 gt then usea piece of leather with polish on it

ho DO NOT try it on your arm you will take skin off if doen right

ATB

Duncan

Cheers Duncan. When you say "batton" do you mean a square, 1"x2" piece of timber? (Sorry - It's my trade) or a piece of rounded "green batton" from a tree? And would you use it on the outside bevel of the crook knife?

Thanks for the help in advance...hc

 

[FGYT]

Cheers Duncan. When you say "batton" do you mean a square, 1"x2" piece of timber? (Sorry - It's my trade) or a piece of rounded "green batton" from a tree? And would you use it on the outside bevel of the crook knife?

Thanks for the help in advance...hc

basically you want a wood file yo ucan use as a flat to hold the wet n dry on
i use a bit of 1" x 1/4" x 4 " parkey flooring
one side ive rounded to match the inside curves for my spoon and crook blades. its easier if you can clamp or hold the spoon knife but mainly for shaping the bevel (when i make new blades) etc once done its an easy touch up

lot of pople take teh secondary bevel off the frosts to get em to cut better

ATB

Duncan

 

[HeltorChasca]

Thanks Jonathan - Like it, but I just can't get good results.

It's like the ancient saying goes: It's not the lengthe: It's the widthe that seems to counte!

(Pertaining to whetstones of course!)

 

[HeltorChasca]

Gulp...

...So if the bevel of the blade is on the outside - I sharpen from the inside (which is totally flat) if using a curved bit of wood/wet n dry?

Sorry - It's been a long week......hc

 

[FGYT]

Gulp...

...So if the bevel of the blade is on the outside - I sharpen from the inside (which is totally flat) if using a curved bit of wood/wet n dry?

Sorry - It's been a long week......hc

you sharpen the outside bevel with the flat of the wood

you only need to use fine 600gt on the inside to take the burr off if it gets bad and use the curved side keeping it flat on the metal and very lightly

ATB

Duncan

 

[HeltorChasca]

...Many thanks Duncan. Wow - I've just seen a few of your crook knives. Lovely work....hc