Coping saw advice
- Thread starter Androo
- Start date
Hmmm, tempting, but I already have too many projects on the go!
Gonna give the bootfair a quick hello tomorrow morning and see what I can manifest first.
My wants for tomorrow include coping saw, rasps and some unused epoxy. I only have a tenner to spend...fingers crossed it's still on as we've had enough rain to warrant the booty being cancelled.
Well, the boot fair was cancelled/rained off so I squelched over to t'bay and found a coping saw listed by a gentleman that had reached a point in his life where he couldn't use hand tools any more (how sad is that 
) It's an Eclipse 7CP about 20 years old, the patina on the handle is gorgeous and he threw in a few spare blades too. It went for just 99p, but the best thing is that I landed a bargain priced good quality tool, that has been well looked after and probably has many more decades use left in it.
Thanks for the advice all
) It's an Eclipse 7CP about 20 years old, the patina on the handle is gorgeous and he threw in a few spare blades too. It went for just 99p, but the best thing is that I landed a bargain priced good quality tool, that has been well looked after and probably has many more decades use left in it.Thanks for the advice all
Biker
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Great news that!
Remember: Let the saw do the work, you're there to guide it and provide the back and forth action, NOT to lean hard down on it and go through the blades like there's no tomorrow. There are some schools of thought that suggest the blade could be fitted backwards with the cutting action working on the pull stroke, personally I get along better using a coping saw the conventional way. So long as the frame is tight, it makes no real difference
Looking forward to seeing the result of this addition to your arsenal.
Yeah, tis sad to hear of a tradesman unable to use his hands any longer, gotta be galling that. Least he didn't just bin 'em that would be the crying shame.
Remember: Let the saw do the work, you're there to guide it and provide the back and forth action, NOT to lean hard down on it and go through the blades like there's no tomorrow. There are some schools of thought that suggest the blade could be fitted backwards with the cutting action working on the pull stroke, personally I get along better using a coping saw the conventional way. So long as the frame is tight, it makes no real difference
Looking forward to seeing the result of this addition to your arsenal.
Yeah, tis sad to hear of a tradesman unable to use his hands any longer, gotta be galling that. Least he didn't just bin 'em that would be the crying shame.
I rarely ever use a coping saw for cutting handles out. If I'm not in the workshop where I have a bandsaw and belt grinder, then I use GOOD rasps and often a drawknife. Ask any of the dozens of people that I've taught to make knives with my primitive forges, none of them has ever been given a coping saw and they've all succeeded in shaping some weird and wonderful handles
Shinto saw rasps are the mutts nuts when it comes to flat and convex curves (infact with parctice you can rough out concave shapes too),have a coarse and smooth side (smooth goes straihgt to 120 grit paper) cost about £12 and last for a very very long time.
You have to go over to rasps after a saw and since coping saws require consumable blades that snap for a past time, I just don't bother pratting about with them.
Shinto saw rasps are the mutts nuts when it comes to flat and convex curves (infact with parctice you can rough out concave shapes too),have a coarse and smooth side (smooth goes straihgt to 120 grit paper) cost about £12 and last for a very very long time.
You have to go over to rasps after a saw and since coping saws require consumable blades that snap for a past time, I just don't bother pratting about with them.
I have to agree with Dave about those Shinto rasp thingies!
I used one on one of his axe courses and was very impressed with it.
I must get one...must resist....must get one....must resist......
Simon
I used one on one of his axe courses and was very impressed with it.
I must get one...must resist....must get one....must resist......
Simon
Yeah, me too. The breakout goes to the side away from the pencil mark and its better to see the pencil mark as well.
Seem to remember that some come with the teeth facing the rear (the wrong way in my opinion) when you buy them and I guess some people just keep on thinking that's how it should be.
total agree on the teeth facing the wrong way. teeth facing toward the handle is for fret saw work a completely different bag of jelly beans. deeper frame. thinner blade. working from the underside in a downward pull motion. coping saws are used as normal saws
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