Coping saw advice

Androo

Nomad
Dec 8, 2010
300
0
NW UK
I'm fashioning a knife handle, and it's most likely to be made from either Mahogony or Yew.

Looking on eBay, I see many different kinds - Bahco, Eclipse, and really cheap (99p) ones. What kind of size, style would I be looking for when sawing the handle? Is there any kind of coping saw that I should steer away from? What are reputed to be best quality?

I know they're generally less than £10, but with money so tight, I would like to make the right choice for the knife handle and be able to use it for future projects. If anyone has a decent quality one to sell (with blades), feel free to get in touch.

Cheers
 

sasquatch

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jun 15, 2008
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There are two ways to look at it;

Just buy one and think of the money you'll save by making your own knife. It'll soon pay for itself.

If times are that tough don't buy one. Use that rasp and file to get to where you need, it just takes a bit longer and more elbow grease. You don't need a coping saw but they do make life easier.

I bought mine from B&Q years back(Eclipse) and have since bought cheap blades for it. The cheap blades are fine...
 

Mesquite

It is what it is.
Mar 5, 2008
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~Hemel Hempstead~
All coping saws rely on the frame tensioning the blade so if you find you need more tension you can widen the frame slightly so it doesn't really matter if it costs lots or is a cheaper brand as you're just paying for a name and perhaps a slightly fancier handle

So buy a handle at the price you're comfortable with paying as you won't get much extra features with a more expensive model and you'll get just as good a result
 
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JAG009

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 20, 2010
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Under your floor
Dont buy a cheap one ,,you will not get good tension on the blade and that is whats needed for good cutting


Jason
 

JAG009

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 20, 2010
2,407
2
Under your floor
All coping saws rely on the frame tensioning the blade so if you find you need more tension you can widen the frame slightly so it doesn't really matter if it costs lots or is a cheaper brand as you're just paying for a name and perhaps a slightly fancier handle

So buy a handle at the price you're comfortable with paying as you won't get much extra features with a more expensive model and you'll get just as good a result

This widening the frame will not work it will just bend back to were it was and you loose all you tension ..good coping saws have sprung steel frames and will always keep the tension


Jason
 
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Androo

Nomad
Dec 8, 2010
300
0
NW UK
There are two ways to look at it;

Just buy one and think of the money you'll save by making your own knife. It'll soon pay for itself.

If times are that tough don't buy one. Use that rasp and file to get to where you need, it just takes a bit longer and more elbow grease. You don't need a coping saw but they do make life easier.

I bought mine from B&Q years back(Eclipse) and have since bought cheap blades for it. The cheap blades are fine...

Very true, it's not like I'm thinking of spending £500 on a bushy. 'It's just a coping saw'
What rasp and file? ;) I don't own either...yet, but I do have lots of good quality sandpaper, so thought a coping saw would give me more control than a rasp & file (although they too are on my tool-list for a number of purposes.

The mahogony I have is very dry and from initial experimentations rasping it might well tear wood where I want to shape before sanding... hmmm...

I think a coping saw would be best for my purposes just now. When I have a few more quids I'll get a good rasp & file set.
 

Androo

Nomad
Dec 8, 2010
300
0
NW UK
Some good advice, thank you all.

There are a few second hand 301's on t'bay - gonna try my luck with those before I spend £10 on a new one.
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
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Rossendale, Lancashire
Hit a few carboots or flea markets and pick up a old good quality one for pence or a quid or two tops. 'may need a bit of TLC but they out there, got at least three that way for myself and one for the middle sons tool kit.

(Why three?, two for blades for metal and wood and a adjustable one for using with broken blades. And because they had the potential to be shiny again!)

I can't emphasise how many quality tools are out there begging for new homes, about a hour back I picked up a Footprint 1/4 inch scotch eye auger for a quid on Accrington flea thats now sitting in some boiling water and citric acid powder (cut offs of 25mm plastic tube with a cork hammered in are great for soaking augers in) before I give it a quick wire brushing and if needed touch up the cutting edges. A half inch new ones what 25 quid? I couldnt find a 1/4 for sale and of course the company closed down a few years back so I'm also preserving a bit of history.

I'll get my coat

ATB

Tom
 

Androo

Nomad
Dec 8, 2010
300
0
NW UK
Hit a few carboots or flea markets and pick up a old good quality one for pence or a quid or two tops. 'may need a bit of TLC but they out there, got at least three that way for myself and one for the middle sons tool kit.

(Why three?, two for blades for metal and wood and a adjustable one for using with broken blades. And because they had the potential to be shiny again!)

I can't emphasise how many quality tools are out there begging for new homes, about a hour back I picked up a Footprint 1/4 inch scotch eye auger for a quid on Accrington flea thats now sitting in some boiling water and citric acid powder (cut offs of 25mm plastic tube with a cork hammered in are great for soaking augers in) before I give it a quick wire brushing and if needed touch up the cutting edges. A half inch new ones what 25 quid? I couldnt find a 1/4 for sale and of course the company closed down a few years back so I'm also preserving a bit of history.

I'll get my coat

ATB

Tom

A quid???

Now that's what I'm talking about! There are a few charity/bric-a-brac shops in town and a car-boot this weekend which I will definitely check out. I'm with you on the old tool front, I'd rather a well engineered tool that needs a brush up than a mass-produced overpriced tool that will most likely break with too greasy an elbow.
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
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Rossendale, Lancashire
yup here it was before

augerquarterinch.jpg


And after 20minutes work not including the soaking time.


augerquarterinchfinished.jpg


It was perfectly usable before but i hate rust and it did benefit from cleaning and then rubbing with a oily bit of smooth wet and dry before touching up the two cutting edges with a small diamond file and fetling the screw thread on the end with a good needle file.



I'll cut a piece of wood for the handle when I see a suitable bit although I improvise when i take augers out as a rule.

To realy make you sick i could take a pic of the 1.5 inch huge auger I got from the same market, unused, by another defunct Sheffield company and the 1 inch Footprint ex army job that they were selling off on ebay a few years back, still in the cosmoline! I think I paid 3 for the 1.5 inch dia.

The week before last i got 14 imperial sized UK made fostner bits for a brace that just needed polishing (OK didnt need but looked prettier) for the princely sum of £3.50 and the guy actually apologised for the state of the old cigar box they were stuffed in!

incidentally for the perposes of touching up paint jobs on tools does anyone know a equivilent to Footprint pale blue? I got it from a collector down in Oz that Record blue is the same as Humbrol enamel Insignia Blue. I know its not the baked on stuff the factory used but if I'm doing something up before I use it i like to do as good a job as I can. It also inhibits rust a bit if I want some justification.

ATB

Tom
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
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Rossendale, Lancashire
Best of luck! Another good source is elderly relations and their friends. That way I picked up some pretty much unused Stubbs files last month, just needed derusting and new handles!

Atb

Tom​
 

Biker

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Top tip abut looking at bootfairs.

Eclipse is my preferred weapon of choice when it comes to coping saws, just check that the thread on the handle is sound if you buy at a bootfair and that the little slot the coping saw notch fits into is also unbroken.

The two I have are hand-me-downs from my grandfather which are still going strong, the tension in them is fine too. I buy Eclipse blades because I trust the name and you can get a pack of 10 for under a fiver-ish.

Avoid anything made by Silverline, it may look good and their prices are brillaint, but you get shyte quality and will kick yourself for ever wasting your money.

Be on the lok out for rasps and files at the bootfair too. Rasps are for roughing out and removing a lot of stock or waste, then the files come into play which are finer rasps effectively, then you go to finer toothed files and then on to sandpaper.

Simples!

Edit: Just seen the posting above about Record Blue paint. I used Finnegans smoothrite blue (the same manufacturer who makes Hammerirte) The colour is slightly lighter but not too bad if you're not too fussy. Siffice to say it does the job on inhibiting rust.
 
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Androo

Nomad
Dec 8, 2010
300
0
NW UK
Cheers Biker,

I agree on the silverline crap. I bought a ton of blades to go with my 80's 'industrial' Bosch jig-saw (which is a beaut!) and the blades kept snapping and warping on very soft woods.

I suppose for the £10 I'd spend on a good, new coping saw, I could land a good quality second hand coping saw and a few rasps... you know, I might brave the rain for the carboot this weekend - the rain will put many off and leave more bargains for me - muahahahahhaaa!

Cheers for the tips!
 

demographic

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Apr 15, 2005
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A quid???

Now that's what I'm talking about! There are a few charity/bric-a-brac shops in town and a car-boot this weekend which I will definitely check out. I'm with you on the old tool front, I'd rather a well engineered tool that needs a brush up than a mass-produced overpriced tool that will most likely break with too greasy an elbow.

The local secondhand tool barn bloke sells stuff like coping saws at about a quid as well. I have a few kicking about. Bit of rust but easy to clean up and perfectly serviceable.
There's often scotch eye augers and a good selection of rasps and files (the rasps and files go for two quid) and old handplanes, whatever. Great place and I'm in quite often.
 

Biker

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
The local secondhand tool barn bloke sells stuff like coping saws at about a quid as well. I have a few kicking about. Bit of rust but easy to clean up and perfectly serviceable.
There's often scotch eye augers and a good selection of rasps and files (the rasps and files go for two quid) and old handplanes, whatever. Great place and I'm in quite often.

Group buy? :lmao:
 

Hugo

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Nov 29, 2009
2,588
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Lost in the woods
Nice auger tombear, bit too long for me, I have the footprint 5/8 one a foot long comes in handy when out and about, sold about 20 of them on here to other members.
Boot fairs, can't beat them for old tools.
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
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Rossendale, Lancashire
Yup I'm bound to snap it! What motivated me to get it was a episode of Timeteam I saw them using a long drill, far longer than owt I have, to take the pith out of the centre of a twig to make a whistle or some such and I quite fancy having a go at that!

Atb

Tom
 

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