Conservation of wattle and daub, any ideas

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Fraxinus

Settler
Oct 26, 2008
935
31
Canterbury
I have a client whose project has a patch of w&d around 500 yrs old up in the roof that is in danger of falling off.
We would like to stop it doing so and I had the idea of sealing it with a PVA sealing coat sprayed on then covering with chicken wire to support it.
Does any member here have a working knowledge of the task at hand, is my idea feasible?
My google-fu has let me down this afternoon so over to you lovely people.:)

Rob.

edit to add an old pic,

100_0187.JPG
 
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Toddy

Mod
Mod
Jan 21, 2005
38,999
4,652
S. Lanarkshire
Thompson's waterseal ? :dunno: I know that originally they were limewashed, sometimes lime plastered….and that breathes in a way that the water seal son't.

Architectural conservation specialists ?

Why is it falling off though ? has something moved (the W &D is very forgiving usually) or has it rotted (shouldn't if it's been kept dry, I'd have thought)

Best link I can find is this one…..see half way down the page for repairing it.
http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/wattleanddaub/wattleanddaub.htm

atb,
M
 

Fraxinus

Settler
Oct 26, 2008
935
31
Canterbury
Much of the house has been carefully repaired and some of the w&d has been restored properly with more to do plus some areas where we are re-doing whole sections with new lime plaster over lathes.
This section is hanging in there but we feel that to try and repair it will cause it to crumble and fall just by the process of plastering it....so the hope is to conserve it, as is, for future generations.
I hope I am explaining myself properly.
Waterseal was mention but we feel it will not bond sufficiently for the task. Ta though Mary.

Rob.
 

Toddy

Mod
Mod
Jan 21, 2005
38,999
4,652
S. Lanarkshire
The article I linked to mentions that it can be supported and reaffixed, just not to use iron wire, so that does rather rule out chicken wire.
How about some of the plastic mesh ? The stuff meant as windbreaks ? it would at least give you time to consider how to stabilise it thoroughly.

Must admit I'd be tempted just to use wallpaper paste (anti-fungicidal stuff) and thin linen scrim. At least we know that that can be removed easily with just warm water and a little patience. I'm not the one having to justify what I did to 500 year old W&D though :eek:

Best of luck with it, and it'd be interesting to hear what you decided to do and how it worked out :)

M
 

demographic

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Apr 15, 2005
4,697
719
-------------
Any reason why it can't just be re done?

In my experience if its blown (come away from the wall) its just a matter of time before it comes away in sheets.

I would have hated to be a plasterers horse back in those days, must have been freezing for them.
 

birchwood

Nomad
Sep 6, 2011
446
102
Kent
Could you get in touch with the Weald and Downland Museum in Sussex?. They have moved and restored lots of old houses .
 

Teepee

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 15, 2010
4,115
5
Northamptonshire
The only product I know of that will penetrate and sure up is Epoxy resin. It's super-wet so penetrates better than anything. It will darken the colour by permanent wetting, but so will PVA.

Personally, I'd try and stick loose large bits back with epoxy, maybe some thixotropic epoxy if it's not too crumbly , then brush coat the main face in a proprietary binder, preferably a matt finish binder. Stainless mesh fixed over the top(somehow), pre-painted to match the wall. Suring it up is easily going to be more work than replacing it though and the epoxy isn't cheap.

Sounds like a royal PITA bit of work, surveying it would include lots of tooth sucking. :) Lovely to work on buildings this old though.
 

Fraxinus

Settler
Oct 26, 2008
935
31
Canterbury
Thanks for the replies so far :You_Rock_

Looks like I have to do some more research, which is for me part of the fun, coming up with solutions to joinery jobs has been my bread and butter this just overlaps another skillset.
Lyn, that museum sounds like it's worth a visit, perhaps when Suzy is off work next week.
Pete, it's more of a pain in the head as nary a day goes by that I don't duck low enough going through a doorway! I've made three oak staircases for this place, repaired, replaced posts, beams and crucks, built oak screens etc and still we have more to do. It is a joy to go to work each day.

Rob.
 

tombear

On a new journey
Jul 9, 2004
4,494
556
54
Rossendale, Lancashire
Looking at the beams and width of the bricks, is by any chance this place listed? The owners must know. Just some of the people who enforce it are pretty, well firm shall we say on how repairs should be made. On the other hand they will be able to advise how the repairs should be made, unless you are unlucky to get a complete----- dealing with you.

atb

tom
 

xylaria

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
There is building college in Llandeilo that teaches restoration and old skills.

Basically from what I picked up from open days if it has lime render, dont repair with something that doesn't breath, you will kill the building in a few decades. The structure will rot with damp and go to powder.

Tywi centre http://www.tywicentre.org.uk/English/Pages/default.aspx
 
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spandit

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 6, 2011
5,594
308
East Sussex, UK
It's not designed to last forever. As someone mentioned, get it redone with traditional materials. Just because it's old doesn't mean it's worth saving
 

birchwood

Nomad
Sep 6, 2011
446
102
Kent
@Fraxinus, I should think it is a very interesting place to visit.
There was a timbered house in the way of the Channel Tunnel so it was dismantled and rebuilt in Sellindge.
 

Seadog

Tenderfoot
May 5, 2013
66
0
United Kingdom
I would strongly advise against the PVA/Epoxy - this will create a non breathable barrier up against the other parts of the structure which in time may create all sorts of additional problems. Likewise use of chicken wire etc not conservation grade and this too will cause long-term problems. Not being off but advice needed from heritage building specialist. Kent is not my area so not sure about local resources.

suggest you follow this link

http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/wattleanddaub/wattleanddaub.htm
 

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