Confused with leather boot care?

[FlashPan]

Hi all,

I've been attempting to do some reading up on boot care as I'd like to get a proper regime setup. Well more in the line of preserving and waterproofing the leather/boot.

I always thought that dubbing was a good way to go and some of the internet posts I've googled support that as well. Then some other thoughts are that dubbing is fine for leather but not so good for the stiches and glue on the soles. (something the pro camp don't mention).

Then I hear about lanolin which is good for softening (or keeping) the leather.

Then I read about peoples thoughts on certain brands etc like nikwax.

So as usual my weekend has been that of some confusion

When ever I like to treat my boots I like to get in all the nooks and crannys (especially the edge between the leather and sole), which I think dubbing is not such a good idea now?

Does an all in 1 product exist? Something to preserve and waterproof? Or a 2 or 3 stage process advised? eg preserve/soften then waterproof? (1 or more product).

Should I also be looking at treating the inside leather parts as well? Would lanolin suffice for that?

Cheers and thanks

 

[GGTBod]

I use Leder Gris Original Wax (can be bought all over the place i just linked ebay as it was in my save list and easiest to do) it is an all in one solution, you brush it on with a firm shoe brush and then brush it in with a softer one, keeps them supple and waterproof and prevents cracking for boots that are constantly getting wet

 

[Macaroon]

Altberg ledergris every time for me; some time ago one of the bootmakers at Altberg told me that Dubbin was very good for leather which had been tanned in the old way that most boot leather used to be, but now the tanning process is different and they developed the Ledergris as a mix of oils and wax to suit the modern leathers. He told me to only use one brush to both apply and buff, explaining that you drive the oil into the leather and the wax stays on the surface and polishes up to provide protection at the surface.

I've used it on all my boots for the past few years and those without the GTX membrane keep me as dry, and a lot cooler, than any I've had with the GTX. You need to spend twenty minutes or so on each boot to achieve the best results, but as they say, look after your kit and it'll look after you.

 

[Nomad64]

Another (recent) convert to Leder Gris here - just be careful when comparing prices and ordering - the tins come in two sizes and the 80g ones are only a pound and a few pence more than the 40g tins!

 

[GGTBod]

I never realised you could use just one brush, like you I also spend about 20-30 minutes per boot after each outing after cleaning them before putting them away in my boot storage area awaiting my next adventuring

 

[Ogri the trog]

I believe that dubbin got a bad name for rotting stitches from a time when boots were sewn with natural thread - (attracting dirt & grit which had an adverse effect on the cotton, leading to its premature demise) and about the same time, actual polish was not a popular thing. However, with synthetic stitching I've never had an issue.

From my experience, any dubbin or wax that is somewhat "natural" should be fine to keep boots water-resistant, supple etc. The one thing that I have learnt to avoid is highly polishing boots too often - the drying action of the polish tends to dry the leather and leads to cracks which are difficult to seal up. So dubbin, Nikwax, Ledergris, whatever and the occasional polish will be fine.

ATB

Ogri the trog

 

[Hibrion]

Sno seal is great.

 

[Klenchblaize]

 

[Martti]

The Finnish Defence Forces, Bundeswehr and I use Floral shoe polish by Gregor Chemie GmbH. It contains natural and synthetic waxes and lanoline, among other things.

 

[John Fenna]

I will use just about any of the commercial waxes with occasional polishing as well.
However I will also use my home made dubbin - a mix of bees wax, lard, neetsfoot oil and turpentine.
The idea of proofings is to fill up the minute holes in the structure of leather to stop them filling with water but also to allow some holes to remain so the leather can breath - without making the leather dry and prone to splitting. I like to use natural products and "Animal on Animal" as it seems to make some sort of sense to me....
My dubbin makes a pretty good hand creme as well!

 

[Tonyuk]

Leder gris for me too.

 

[superc0ntra]

I use mink fat for leather boots/shoes. Never had any problems or wet feet.
Apply and then place somewhere warm (not hot) overnight, allowing fat to really sink in. Buff them and you're ready to go.

 

[Janne]

I have a pair of Redwing boots, which I bought 1979 after I destroyed my Lundhags during the first exercise ( in the Army). I am now on the third Vibram soles now ( as I do not trek much these days the current sole should last my life out).
After heavy use I remove the leather laces, thproughly wash the outside with hand soap and water, taking care to remove all dirt and mud. I let them dry out for about a week, then impregnate all stitching, leather joins and join between sole and leather with Mink Oil.
Let soak in for a day or two, then apply Mink fat/ ctream on both the leather and all joins. The laces i treat the sane. Store the boots without the laces.
Store them with newspaper inside.

 

[jcr71]

i use neatsfoot oil. slightly darkens the colour but keeps the leather in good condition.

 

[Herbalist1]

I always used to use ordinary boot polish, with a good thorough dubbing once a year. Didn't use the dubbing move than this as I'd heard over use could rot the stitching, which may not be a problem these days if synthetic thread is used.
Whenever I got a new pair of boots, I'd always give them a good dubbing and then maintain them over the year with ordinary polish until hey were due their yearly dubbing. Never had a problem.
But sounds like there are better products available these days.

 

[walker]

never had any problems with normal dubbing wipe on and rub it in my lowa boots are 12 years old and need resoleing but the leather is in great condition

 

[sharpangle]

Renapur is a great product for boot care. It has a similar consistency to dubbin and worked in to the boots will protect and preserve. J&E Sedgewick produce a range of excellent leather care products. They are a leather tanners and should have a fair idea what is good for the hide. Their brand Leathercare cream is great for feeding leather products and is easy to work with. It absorbs quickly and fully into the item treated leaving no discolouration or residue. Ideal for inside of footwear if required.