CNC Router

[Grebby]

OK a rather random request....

I'm going to make a new workbench for the garage in the new house and my current design means that I need a bunch of 20mm holes laid out in a grid. This grid NEEDs to be very accurate.

So does anyone have access to or know someone who has access to a CNC router?

Midlands area would be best but will consider elsewhere.

If so could you contact me please.

Cheers

Grebby

 

[mace242]

My dad is a CNC specialist and has worked all over. I can't promise anything but I'll ask and pm you any details I get.

 

[Grebby]

That would be great

Cheers

Grebby

 

[ebt.]

might be easier to get someone to print the grid on a plotter then paste it onto the worktop as a drill guide.

 

[abominable_scouse_monster]

Find a local maker space, they will be more than willing to help.

 

[Deaner666]

Two companies I know of / use - The Grain (http://www.thegrain.co.uk/sandblasted-wooden-signs/) and Abko ltd (01579 363360). Both based near me in Liskeard in Cornwall but both deal with companies / people all over the country. Would just have to factor in the cost of ferrying the stuff around.

 

[Grebby]

Thanks for the responses.

I think that I'm sorted now.

A nice bloke on the air rifle forums that I am on is sorting it out for me.

Cheers

Grebby

 

[Grebby]

might be easier to get someone to print the grid on a plotter then paste it onto the worktop as a drill guide.

The reason for the CNC is that the holes need to be very accurate position wise and perfectly perpendicular to the surface.

 

[Bushwhacker]

A manual vertical mill would be just as good and cost less.
Programming and set up times for a one-off job on a CNC are costly.

 

[ebt.]

Fair enough, I've done similar stuff at home using templates and a router. Depends on your definition of accurate, i guess

Looking forward to seeing pictures of the finished item...

 

[Grebby]

Pics will be a while, I have to move house first and top of the list after that is to build a stand for my new (to me) lathe.

Milling machine would need to be big as workbench top is 2400mm x 700mm. Accuracy is needed as the holes will hold dogs which will be used for making 90deg cuts(+ other functions).

It's being sorted for me by a nice bloke who is doing it for the cost of the materials

Cheers

Grebby

 

[demographic]

Can you not just use a 3/4 spiral bit for a plunge router clamped to the bench then finish the holes off with a auger bit. That should keep it at 90 degrees.
Maybe clamp something on the backside to stop it from splintering when the bit comes through.

Not sure why you need the CNC router for it, also most round bench dogs I've seen are 3/4" NOT 20mm.

Fairly sure the only one's I've heard of were made by Qwas.

 

[Grebby]

I've got a lathe for the dogs, it will be a nice simple starter project. Intelligent designs do 20mm dogs and the festool stuff works on 20mm.

Clamping the router in the middle of the work may be awkward.

The rows and columns of holes need to be at a precise 90deg to each other and perfectly straight.
It could be done with very careful marking out and plunging with a router as you say but doing 168 holes that way would be a PITA.

As some kind person has offered to do the lot for the cost of materials for me, it makes no sense to buy more router bits etc and then have to spend ages aligning everything and still ending up with an inferior product.

Cheers

Grebby

 

[demographic]

OK, can't fault your reasoning on the deal your getting for someone else doing it.
Would still stick with the 3/4" holes though cos thats a far more common size for the bench dogs.
Veritas does a great range of dogs, holdfasts, surface clamps and all sorts, all in 3/4" and yeah maybe Festool does 20mm but the Yanks/Canadians have a far better range of that kind of kit and they don't really do metric.

Personally my bench top has rectangular dog holes but that's how it came and I made my own dogs out of teak and oak offcuts. Fire em through a thicknesser Cost nowt but I would like round instead as they are more versatile.

Making the holes with a router isn't that hard as you just need to knock up a plywood jig, dead easy to do.

How thick is the top you're using? What vices are you fitting to it? Interested now.

 

[Grebby]

Surface is going to be 2 18mm thick ply pieces laminated.

It's not really a woodwork type bench. More for sheet goods and knocking together stuff if you get my drift. I'll put whatever vices(metalwork) etc. onto another piece of board that will then be clamped to the bench.

I'm quite looking forward to playing on the lathe making various dogs etc. and I work in metric (along with my micrometer) so that is another reason why I've gone for 20mm holes.

I'll try to get some pics as I build it but I'm terrible at remembering to as I only have a bit of play time and usually want to just get on with it!

Cheers

Grebby

 

[Nomad]

If you prefer to think metric, use a metric size that will work with 3/4", namely 19mm. 3/4" is 19.05mm to be exact, and I don't think a 50 micron difference in diameter (or a 25 micron offset from centre) is really going to matter with woodwork or sheet materials.

In other words, get the holes cut to 3/4", and make your dogs 19mm. That way, you'd have the option of using the wider range of existing 3/4" stuff as well.

 

[demographic]

Surface is going to be 2 18mm thick ply pieces laminated.

It's not really a woodwork type bench. More for sheet goods and knocking together stuff if you get my drift. I'll put whatever vices(metalwork) etc. onto another piece of board that will then be clamped to the bench.

I'm quite looking forward to playing on the lathe making various dogs etc. and I work in metric (along with my micrometer) so that is another reason why I've gone for 20mm holes.

I'll try to get some pics as I build it but I'm terrible at remembering to as I only have a bit of play time and usually want to just get on with it!

Cheers

Grebby

If you attach a woodwork vice to the bench then any metalworking vice you want on it can be attached to a section of ply thats got a wooden cleat on its underside for the woodwork vice to grip. You can also put a raised edge round that metalwork vice rectangle so when you use a hacksaw it catches the metal swarf/chippings and doesn't knacker the bench top.
Metalwork vices are usually nicer to have higher up than woodwork vice's anyway.
Also you can have rectangles with cleats under them and raised edges for things like sharpening stations, bench grinder, whatever.

 

[Grebby]

Makes sense, but as I mentioned it's not for proper woodwork, mainly for knocking together cabinets, shelves etc. I just don't think I need/would use a woodwork vice so I'll save the pennies. I'll make something with similar functionality to the festool fixed clamps/Walko Quick clamps.

It's sort of based on half of the Ron Paulk ultimate workbench. For edge work I'll just clamp the boards to the sides to work on them.

I will sort some way of protecting the worktop from metal filing etc. but that's for later.

Cheers

Grebby

 

[demographic]

It's sort of based on half of the Ron Paulk ultimate workbench. For edge work I'll just clamp the boards to the sides to work on them.

Ahhhh, that makes a bit more sense now. I understand you not being too bothered about fitting a proper woodworking vice to it now. I saw that design a year or more ago and like it a lot. Be aware that on this video by the man he says that his dog holes are 3/4" to fit the same Fastool clamps that you plan on using. [video=youtube;sJoGTf6KL8s]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJoGTf6KL8s[/video]

Its a good design, if used on site you can fit it into a decent sized van between sites and its big enough to hold 20 painters cups, fifteen flasks, two sets of electricians plans and three plumbers tool bags.
Get used to everyone on site putting their crap on it as they do with any flat surface I make, hell they even put their stuff on top of my toolbox.
At least its light enough so you can lift the top and drop all that junk they put there off it in a heap.