Clean fine abrasive for hardwood.

[greencloud]

Fellow craftypersons, please tell me about your methods and media for finely polishing wooden items (particular to UK). I find that its tricky to source anything finer than 400 grit without resorting to silicon carbide 'wet n dry' but that stuff leaves deposit stains. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?

Do you use anything between 400grit and steel wool?

Cheers.

 

[C_Claycomb]

600 grit.
https://www.axminster.co.uk/hermes-...-aluminium-oxide-100mm-x-1m-x-600-grit-800487

Indasa Rhynowet Redline. Hard to find, but the best, hands down. Wet or dry, aluminium oxide, holds up very well. For example:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof-sandpaper-sheet-Rhynowet-Indasa/dp/B0097QUUIA

Micromesh
https://www.axminster.co.uk/micro-mesh-mixed-pack-of-abrasives-211365

I tend not to go beyond 400 to 600 grit unless I am applying a finish that fully fills the grain.

A lot of people will sand as far as they can, then buff the rest on a wheel with compound. Sorry, not something I have, so I don't can't recommend compounds that don't leave residue.

 

[Gooner]

+ 1 for micromesh

 

[Dave Budd]

Rather depends on what the item is. Like chris said, unless going finer the woid normally needs filling/sealing/coating and anything but a display piece or fine furniture (think frencn polished tables) is overkill and a waste of time.

400grit abranet or 600grit yellow ali oxide paper (think i got the last lot from abtec abrasives). Or i use fine scotchbright non-woven abrasives, pinky brown is akin to 400 but white is more like 800 and cleans out the grain.

 

[Janne]

Would a wood scraper be suitable?

 

[greencloud]

Thanks guys. I should have specified, its for both knife handle scales and a block/display in the same cherry.

I have some micromesh, but as noted its a bit too far for regular use items. Both the 600grit roll from axminster (I recently got their little 'selection box' of the same stuff in 150-400, its very good for hand finishing) and the scotchbrite (never played with it - yet!) look just the ticket and both available fairly locally to me.

Before I go shopping, any thoughts on wire wool? I have some and have seen it used but fear it could have similar staining problems as the silicon carbide.

 

[Robson Valley]

Reads like you just made some wood carvings in cherry and you want to finish them.
Many carvers and furniture makers go no further than 320 grit.
If you have a lot of flat surfaces, a cabinet scraper actually planes the surface.
Does not shred the surface like sandpapers always do. Microscopic curly shavings!

First finish might raise some grain. A common method is to lightly sand between coats.

The very extra coarse wire wool is flat strands, not round. Fact.
A pad of that acts like a million chisels to cut off raised grain.
At the same time, it skates over your finish without taking much off.
No, it doesn't break up much at all. Don't rub hard with it, cut with it instead.
No, it doesn't perpetually rust (myth).
It does a really nice job on curved surfaces, your fingertips will tell you when you are done.

I wish you well, projects in cherry have an elegance.

 

[Janne]

Cherry is a beautiful wood!

You can source stainless steel course wool.
Worth the extra money, it can be rinced off if you dirty it up!

I find the best result if very gentle pressure is applied.

Brian, it is thank to your advice I started using steel wool!

 

[Dave Budd]

yep, totally agree with the last two posts about wire wool I forgot to mention it, but it works great without leaving dirty marks in the wood (unless you rub hard and the wires snap off in the grain, but then mostly with very pale wood or oak).

I've never tried stainless wire wool but I imagine it works fine. I've never needed to clean wire wool out, it normally disintegrates before it clogs I find. The standard stuff doesn't rust unless it is left in a puddle or near acid fumes (like next to a jar of vinegar), even in my damp workshop. You do, however, need to keep it in a cupboard or box well away from any sparks or it WILL catch fire; guess how I know?

 

[greencloud]

Thanks again guys. I'm sure I have a pack of steel wool in a drawer. So will give it a go.
Current plan is to sand to 400, steel wool, boiled linseed, steel wool again if needed, then finish with some beeswax furniture polish stuff.

I will of course post pics when complete!

 

[Janne]

If you want a high gloss surface on the stand that can take a bit of humidity try Tru-Oil in a couple of layers.
Brings out the true beauty in the wood. It is used on gun stocks.


I find that furniture polish is a short term thing, and I hate having to reapply it.

Knife handle - if a 'user' do not make it to shiny. Slippery. My son ( his right hand) can tell you about what can happen.
There I would just apply the BLO.
Beretta uses Tru Oil in several layers on the very fancy walnut stocks on their DT 10 and DT 11, it makes the grain really 'pop out' but a bit slippery when you are nervous....

Other Beretta models do not have that surface.

 

[Robson Valley]

Wire wool or steel wool comes in several different grades.
DON'T use the fine stuff. Just don't. I use it for high temperature insulation only.

Use the very most coarse that you can buy. The strands are flat. That's the secret to success.

 

[Janne]

You are the expert here, RV.
I use grade 1 or 2. I get it from boat companies, beg to get a piece or two. Nothing coarser available here in the S/s material in the building stores, all three of them on Island.
Seems to work fine though.
What grade do you use?

 

[Robson Valley]

Home Hardware, here in the village, stocks Bulldog Brand. I use what they call "Extra Coarse." Of maybe 3 grades?
Anyway, I can see that the individual strands are flat. I don't pay much attention any more since my methods are planned.
Helps to give my carvings a water-wet glossy finish. I have several uses for the fine stuff. Not wood and not here.

The whole concept was explained to me by a professional interior house painter. I actually got to help do a little of it.
Pretty neat the way it slices off the raised grain fuzzies. Follows every curve and contour and does not scrape off the high ridges, either.
That's the part, for carvings, that I really like.

I've never finished a gunstock or a knife, matte or glossy. Don't know any of the popular techniques.
Have one gunstock that really does need to be finished, maybe do it in the next decade.
3/16" less cast off and 5/16" lower comb, +.75" LOP. I'll get to it.

 

[greencloud]

Just reporting back with the end result. The planned method worked very nicely, silky smooth with a nice soft sheen.

There are countless flaws to annoy me, but hopefully all minor enough to be covered under 'rustic handmade charm'!

Now to extract a suitably 'rustic' block/stand from my little log heap....

 

[Robson Valley]

Wow! Can you plan a block that shows off the entire knife somehow? magnetic, maybe?

 

[dwardo]

Lovely work.

 

[Janne]

PM me your email and I will send you a pic of a stand I did for my son's Jap kitchen knives.
Took me forever to design it, had to hold the knives incredibly well, airy, but still show them off well from all sides.

Those knifes deserve to be seen! Great work!

 

[greencloud]

Wow! Can you plan a block that shows off the entire knife somehow? magnetic, maybe?

I thought about that, but the blades are in O1, so won't be pretty while a patina develops. I don't have a table saw to cut 3mm slots though, so they may end up flat mounted with magnets recessed into the back of the board...

 

[greencloud]

Gave those an edge today, and a test run, and a new home....