Chainsaw help?

[demographic]

I would say that whichever brand/model you choose, make sure that you have easy access to spares

Very good point, having a dealer who can service or repair your choice of saw makes a huge difference, fortunately there's a dealer close to me that does Stihl, Husqvarna and Jonsereds, plus there's another who sells Makita and Dolmar (yes, I know Makita are the same as Dolmar in many cases) and a couple of independent people who repair saws also.

Good dealer support is just about essential unless you can repair whatever can go wrong on a saw yourself.

 

[swyn]

TBH I don't think there's a lot in the choice of either S or H.
I would go to the other end of the driver and look at your nearest dealer. Buy the saw that one stocks. If it needs a chain or you break the plastic bit...Well at least you haven't got a long journey to make!
As for reliability there's nothing in that either.
Traditionally S were aimed at hardwood cutting.
H were softwood saws. The gap has now closed.
I would look too at electric if it is just for cordwood. It's lovely working with no noise!
Don't skimp on a short guidebar either....You will save on a lot of bending using a 24'' over an 18''.
Hope this helps.

Swyn.

 

[GordonM]

For my personal home saw, I use a Stihl 260 Pro with 20 inch bar. I would recommend that for home use for the reasons Woz888 provided above. (MS 261 Pro current number) I also would support the safety info mentioned above.

I have used many sizes of saw from Stihl 18C, up to and including, the 66 or 660(current number). In over 20 + years of parks maintenance crew work as both a maintenance worker and maintenance supervisor. I have done tree work in normal park operations and cleanup from many hurricanes over that time. I have trained staff, as part of the arborist's training team in all areas from maintenance, limbing, bucking and felling. I can't stress enough the training aspect (Stihl offers regularly here, inquire at your dealership) and the safety. I have witnessed many times safety chaps stopping a saw (petrol, will not stop electric saws) and therfore preventing terrible injury. Something to think about, the most common saw cut injury location is accross the thigh. It is often inflicted when the saw operator takes a brief rest and rest the saw on the thigh. That being said, get trained and enjoy using your new saw. It is satisfying work!

Gordy

 

[demographic]

I have witnessed many times safety chaps stopping a saw (petrol, will not stop electric saws) and therfore preventing terrible injury.

Another very good point, chainsaw trousers work by clogging the drive sprocket of the saw up and causing it to stall, electric chainsaws have very high torque at low revs and don't stall like petrol engines do, consequently chainsaw trousers aren't that good at stopping lecky chainsaws.

 

[SOAR]

The Stihl Husky debate (which ones best) has been going for years and it will never be settled.
I would go for a pro saw if I was you it will last you years, I use Stihls and we have saws that get used every day all day that are 15 years old and still going strong, so if its for occasional use you wont be throwing your money away.
Stihl are updating the saws you can tell the newer models as they are now adding a 1 to the model numbers, i.e ms 440 is now a ms 441, they are most of the way through their range now and the ms 261 is getting good reviews from over the pond and will be out here soon.

 

[demographic]

The Stihl Husky debate (which ones best) has been going for years and it will never be settled.
I would go for a pro saw if I was you it will last you years, I use Stihls and we have saws that get used every day all day that are 15 years old and still going strong, so if its for occasional use you wont be throwing your money away.
Stihl are updating the saws you can tell the newer models as they are now adding a 1 to the model numbers, i.e ms 440 is now a ms 441, they are most of the way through their range now and the ms 261 is getting good reviews from over the pond and will be out here soon.

Those would be the stratified charge saws with less emissions, Husqvarna are making them also, so I assume that Jonsereds will be as they are often Husqvarnas in a different colour.

 

[ian2000]

hi i have worked with chainsaws for mmmmm 25 years but dont tell dont go to B&Q not cos there chainsaws are no good cos they are but you wont to get it from the shop that will fix it for you so try to get it from somewere thats got a workshop

 

[nenook]

hi there is a place here in stafford that sells all things for the aborist, new and also second hand refurbished, for half the price, is there such a place near you perhaps?

nenook

 

[SOAR]

yeh by 50% and uses less fuel too on the 261, pretty impressive saws, the newer Husky climbing saws looks good too.

 

[treelore]

Arrrrr the Husqu Stihl debate...lol, well the Arborists would say Stihl and the foresters husqu. Im a Professional Arborist and Woodsman so IMHO i would buy what ever your local dealers sells or i would recomment the following companys, to look at too.



Honey Brothers

Buxtons

Garden Machines

all three companys price match so play them agaist each other. Garden machines would be the cheapest, but please buy PPE if you are going to get a saw. buy wellys as they are cheap and have greatest protection and the best trousers you can afford. oh and gloves and helmet.

as for what saw either stihl or a husqu as both will last for years if well looked after. I use both makes and have many differant models from small top handle saws for up a tree to big buggers with 4 foot bars to fell large trees. i would look at the new stilh ms261 or the Husque 359 both are good saws and are great for firewooding to coppice and felling small trees.

If you need any other help just PM me

 

[ship]

Hi all,
was thinking about a c/saw myself, basically for cutting logs iv,e already been given and collecting some of my own, for seasoning before they go on the multi-fuel stove,
found this package, what do you think, any thoughts, advice would be much appreciated.

http://www.husqvarnachainsaws.co.uk..._accessory_package_-_special_offer_price.html

regards,
ship

 

[sandbender]

"...I am looking for a chainsaw - nothing professionsal, just something small with a little grunt to get firewood for the house and ozpig..."

I have been using the Stihl MS 192T for the past couple of months, it is small but can make short work of some quite sizable logs. It seems tough enough although I do read that the exhaust will often shake itself slightly loose (which makes a hellish racket), this did indeed happen to my one and was easily tightened, although it wouldn't have been so easily tightened If I hadn't had the correct size of Torx driver handy. The exhaust bolts, unlike the blade adjustment bolts etc. cannot be tightened with the supplied combo spanner/screwdriver.

Nice machine otherwise, I'd recommend it.

 

[demographic]

I have been using the Stihl MS 192T for the past couple of months, it is small but can make short work of some quite sizable logs. It seems tough enough although I do read that the exhaust will often shake itself slightly loose (which makes a hellish racket), this did indeed happen to my one and was easily tightened, although it wouldn't have been so easily tightened If I hadn't had the correct size of Torx driver handy. The exhaust bolts, unlike the blade adjustment bolts etc. cannot be tightened with the supplied combo spanner/screwdriver.

Nice machine otherwise, I'd recommend it.

Personally I would prefer a rear handle saw instead of a top handled climbers saw unless I was an arborist and climbing with it.

Having said that, if anyone offered me a MS192T, 020T or MS200T I'd still have it in a shot.

 

[sandbender]

"...Personally I would prefer a rear handle saw instead of a top handled climbers saw unless I was an arborist and climbing with it..."

Not having a handle allows it to more readily fit in to my rucksack, which admittedly probably isn't so important to the OP and of course a rear handled saw will be significantly safer. There is a version of the 192 that has a rear handle and I presume my criticism of the exhaust will hold true for it.

 

[SOAR]

The big question is have you filled the fuel into the oil yet? lol, those tanks are just too close together compaired to the 200t. Are you climbing on that screw gate?

 

[Mikey P]

The Stihl/Husquvarna thing is the same as the Gerber/Leatherman preference thing. Most people tend to stick with what they originally trained with or used - quality ebbs and flows depending on availability of materials and manufacturing costs so I would imagine that Stihl will pull their fingers out when the feedback from customers hits home.

Regardless, you mentioned that you didn't want to break the bank, so that suggests either a non-pro model or a second-hand pro model. For the non-pro models, one of the major issues seems to be getting hold of spares, especially for the lesser known brands. So, it's best to check out something with reasonable spares availability.

In terms of pro-models, you may be able to pick something up from a tree-surgeon, felling or gardening business upgrading their machinery. Check carefully as sometimes the kit can be absolutely thrashed to bits. Personally, I'm a Husqvarna 346XP man but, having said that, nothing beats a Stihl (MS200) for top-handled saws. I think that someone mentioned top-handled saws above but, frankly, unless you're a climber arborist, avoid these like the plague: they are, without doubt, the most dangerous bit of handheld machinery you could ever use (the accident stats don't lie).

The use of high quality parts in key areas is basically the fundamental difference between the amateur and pro saws - if you feel that this is not something you're bothered about, then go for the non-pro kit but just be aware that it won't take consistent all-day use without significant wear. You get what you pay for.

Probably the best bits of advice given above were ref chainsaw maintenance (chain sharpening especially) and PPE. I'm all for both! Ebay is a good source for gloves, helmets and trousers. A decent pair of chainsaw boots will also double for general outdoor use and can be a good overall buy. Jonesy is a good bet for kit too (http://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/)

Regardless, having met you, I know you're not daft and hope I haven't come across as patronising or condescending!

 

[treelore]

And just to point out too that you are not covered by insurance etc if you use a top handle chainsaw on the deck as it is an Arborist saw and ment to be used up a tree....us are also ment to be "tickets" to use and buy one lmao(as no one checks).
But like Mickey P said they are no to be messed with and if you do`nt now what your doing do`nt buy one !!!