Carving a Spoon (Novice)

[THOaken]

A bit too late now perhaps, but you can prevent these splits by using two stop cuts next to each other. That is just some extra safety when you are doing axework towards the bowl.

Indeed, I put a stop cut in where the split occured, but I suppose I didn't saw deep enough or I just cut right through it by mistake. I'm really pleased with this attempt and I know that attempt 3 will be it. Well, attempt 2 really... Let's not count the first one

 

[Two Socks]

I started like that, and am now well over 100 spoons further... It gets a bit addictive.

 

[Dave-the-rave]

Hi Dave; here's another funky bit I'm working on. Nature does give us some fab grains.

THOaken, just keep at it- you're doing fine because you are 'doing'.
Some pieces will be ruined, that's life! and your knowledge will grow each time. Some pieces will crack/split -well, that's nature combined usually with a goof!
Sometimes you'll be able to salvage it, other times it will demand a rethink and might end up being something quite different!
I was hand carving an 8" diameter bowl which I was hand carving then it split after 7 days of working on it... aargh4:!!)
A good tip from Mr Wood from this parish set me straight. Each piece you make you will learn- it never stops

If your blade is super sharp, try 'dragging' it down the length of the spoon shaft at about 45 degrees- one way will jam - the other will 'shave' gently.

That's well funky mate.

 

[HHazeldean]

Thoaken thats looking good, I do tend to agree with cameron about the bowl carving, that is, in my view anyway, the hardest part of the job and you'll need the practise. There's nothing more frustrating than fully carving out your spoon blank and then ruining the whole job by messing up the bowl - too many of mine have ended up that way! Keep at it though thats looking great for a second attempt.

 

[THOaken]

Hello. I made my third spoon this afternoon without using Ben's video tutorial, and got to the bowl carving stage. Here it is!

I'm glad that I got there in the end, but unfortunately the handle is a bit twisted, messy and wobbly. It's all sorts of strange. Oh dear. The shadow you can see in the third side view picture is actually the underside of the spoon, however the bottom face is actually twisted to the side. It's hard to explain but it's the result of my novice axe strikes. I was having a problem getting the handle straight and I went into a weird zone where I took far too much wood off and it ended up being rather thin. It's not as aesthetically pleasing as the first spoon, but that first one doesn't have a bowl now does it? For a second proper attempt, I'm happy with it.

Where do I go from here? Let it dry out a bit more, sand it and then coat it with linseed oil?

Thanks everyone.

 

[Goatboy]

Hello. I made my third spoon this afternoon without using Ben's video tutorial, and got to the bowl carving stage. Here it is!

I'm glad that I got there in the end, but unfortunately the handle is a bit twisted, messy and wobbly. It's all sorts of strange. Oh dear. The shadow you can see in the third side view picture is actually the underside of the spoon, however the bottom face is actually twisted to the side. It's hard to explain but it's the result of my novice axe strikes. I was having a problem getting the handle straight and I went into a weird zone where I took far too much wood off and it ended up being rather thin. It's not as aesthetically pleasing as the first spoon, but that first one doesn't have a bowl now does it? For a second proper attempt, I'm happy with it.

Where do I go from here? Let it dry out a bit more, sand it and then coat it with linseed oil?

Thanks everyone.

Afternoon THOaken, just call it your "Mobius strip" spoon

Can't believe how much your coming on in skill, speed and competence, well done. Put me to shame. Keep up the good work.

 

[THOaken]

Afternoon THOaken, just call it your "Mobius strip" spoon

Can't believe how much your coming on in skill, speed and competence, well done. Put me to shame. Keep up the good work.

Clever! Thanks, Goatboy.

 

[Dean]

Hi THOaken, I would like to congratulate you on joining the spoon carving addicts. Your spoon is great, just keep doing what your doing and don't be afraid to experiment.

Below is a link for Carving Swedish Spoons with Peter Follansnbee which has a few usefull cuts that will help you on your way. Looking forward to seeing your next one.

http://video.pbs.org/video/2172740518/

 

[THOaken]

Hi THOaken, I would like to congratulate you on joining the spoon carving addicts. Your spoon is great, just keep doing what your doing and don't be afraid to experiment.

Below is a link for Carving Swedish Spoons with Peter Follansnbee which has a few usefull cuts that will help you on your way. Looking forward to seeing your next one.

http://video.pbs.org/video/2172740518/

Cheers, Dean. How long should I wait before sanding and oiling it? I don't have any of sand paper or linseed oil, so it'll have to be a few days anyway.

Edit: Could I just use olive oil? How long does it need to soak and what are the procedures?

Thanks.

 

[Two Socks]

You can sand it whenever you want but dryer wood sands a bit easier. Clogs up the paper less. In any case sand before oiling.

Olive oil is not a good idea as it goes rancid. Use flax sees oil or walnut oil for instance. These oils harden over time. I just rub it on and let it dry a couple of times but you can also submerge the spoon for a while.

 

[THOaken]

You can sand it whenever you want but dryer wood sands a bit easier. Clogs up the paper less. In any case sand before oiling.

Olive oil is not a good idea as it goes rancid. Use flax sees oil or walnut oil for instance. These oils harden over time. I just rub it on and let it dry a couple of times but you can also submerge the spoon for a while.

Thanks, Two Socks. I was looking into walnut oil. Now what's this I'm hearing about the proccess of finishing wood with oil takes 3-4 months to oxidise? Can I just rub the oil into the spoon or do I need to do several soaks and let it dry?

 

[shaggystu]

...Can I just rub the oil into the spoon or do I need to do several soaks and let it dry?

Yes would be the simple answer to that one It's pretty much a matter of personal preference really, but the oft quoted rule of thumb is "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year for life". Personally I don't bother with oiling spoons, it's always struck me as a bit pointless oiling something that I'm going use washing up liquid on

 

[THOaken]

Yes would be the simple answer to that one It's pretty much a matter of personal preference really, but the oft quoted rule of thumb is "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year for life". Personally I don't bother with oiling spoons, it's always struck me as a bit pointless oiling something that I'm going use washing up liquid on

Well doesn't it give the spoon a more aesthetic, darker colour? I think once the oil dries it forms a protective barrier from inside the wood so that it doesn't rot away. I'm a bit curious though because I heard that a spoon should be left for months so that it dries properly... That doesn't seem right though, that's too long!

 

[bert333]

Thoaken, well done on your work- keep at it- It just gets better each time! (mostly!! cock-ups will continue to occur just to remind you that nature usually wins out)
You can wipe down your finished spoon with Walnut oil the let it rest awhile. I've done this for some time but have now switched to using a mix of beeswax and tung oil to finish my wood carvings- Once buffed, they feel fabulous and somehow 'glow'- I find it brings out the beauty in the grain more too. See previously posted pics.
Both beeswax and tung oil are 'food safe' so you can use your utensils in your kitchen/camp site.

 

[shaggystu]

Well doesn't it give the spoon a more aesthetic, darker colour? I think once the oil dries it forms a protective barrier from inside the wood so that it doesn't rot away. I'm a bit curious though because I heard that a spoon should be left for months so that it dries properly... That doesn't seem right though, that's too long!

OK, darker colour - yes, it can do, if the oil's got a dark colour to it that is......
Protection from rot - yes, it can do, being clean and dry also prevents things from rotting though....
Left for months to dry properly - well the rule of thumb is that green timber dries at a rate of about an inch a year, so if your spoon's about half an inch thick (as a guess) it'll take about a quarter of a year to dry out fully (it dries from both sides, so half an inch takes a quarter year). Putting it somewhere warm will obviously speed up that process, but it could also cause splits in the wood.

 

[Two Socks]

The oil indeed takes quite a while to completely polymerize. I heard that it takes nearly a year for that to happen. But the protective function of oil begins once applied. At that point it also just washes off easily. The longer it cures the better the protective layer holds up.
Oiling the wood does bring out the grain in your carving though. Especially once sanded. It is also worth considering that oiling traps moisture in the wood and that if your spoon is thick this will dry a lot slower. There is a lot of details we can talk about (and that i find interesting) but in the end i do not notice huge differences. Sand, rub on a few coats of a polymerizing oil and that should be just fine.

 

[MertzMan]

Thanks, Two Socks. I was looking into walnut oil. Now what's this I'm hearing about the proccess of finishing wood with oil takes 3-4 months to oxidise? Can I just rub the oil into the spoon or do I need to do several soaks and let it dry?

I went for Walnut Oil for the handle of my first knife. Very pleased with the results and gave it an ever so slightly darker shade when dried. That and it smells better than any other oil I've tried so far, if that matters to you at all. Good luck!

 

[Dean]

Two Socks has it right about the sanding, when I sand my spoons I start off with a 180 grit to a 240 grit then 400 grit and finish off with a 600 grit, while using a damp cloth between each grit to clean off the detritus left behind.

I use Walnut oil at the moment but am going to be replacing it as some people have nut allergies, I'm not sure what I'll move on to but there are plenty to choose from - food-grade mineral oil (contains a minor laxative), Tung oil, hempseed oil, flax oil, raw linseed oil (do not mistake it with boiled linseed oil as this contains heavy metals to speed up curing, boiled linseed oil should never be used for kitchen implements) once you have oiled your spoon give it a very light sanding with your finest grit, I use 600 grit abranet - http://www.axminster.co.uk/mirka-abranet-abrasive-sheets-70-x-125mm - soaked in oil to give a smooth finish.

 

[Stringmaker]

For what it is worth, here is a tip from me

If you want more fine control at the roughing out stage then don't use the axe, switch to your knife instead when you get close to producing the shape you want.

Like you, I use a block and find that controlled cuts with a knife onto the block are safer (in terms of not ruining your work) than using the axe.

You may not think so but it is clear that you have learned loads already; you can tell from the questions you are now asking and even the vocabulary. You didn't know what a stop cut was a couple of weeks ago.

Keep up the good work and well done thus far!

 

[THOaken]

Hm, the sandpaper I have in the house only comes in 150s, 100s and 60s... Does it matter? As a beginner I only want a smooth spoon, not really worried about the technical details or anything.