I am posting this to assist Eric who's running a course soon and despite the fact that I am no expert in these matters (or any thing else for that matter!) I thought that every one else may be interested.
There are members out there who are also better or have more experiance then me at this and if there is any thing they think is wrong or can add, then please do - we are all here to drain each others brains, so to speak.
1 2
1, after peeling bark off a length of the branch/stave is chosen that is most free of knots (curves and twist can either be avoided or used for extra character or to increase final strength). Next the dimensions and shape of bow are drawn on (flat bow in this case).
I do this by first drawing centre line down length of bow, then finding the centre/middle and draw in the handle dimensions followed by sides and finally nocks.
Now the cutting starts on the sides first. If there is alot of wood to be removed I use an axe (gransfors camp or sportmans axe should do).
Note at this stage you are just roughing out to the shape of the bow and not cutting down as far as the dimension lines - any hasty misstakes at this stage and especially at the next stages with heavy handiness with the axe could ruin or force you to change the bow you are making. Also it is a good idea to get into the habit of cutting from the centre towards each nock and not end to end -this helps to keep each side of the bow shape identical and the final tillering easier.
2, Once the roughing out has finished, I have used a drawknife on a shaving horse to showing start cutting down to the dimension lines (a cleaving brake or a lenght of cord tied into a prusik knot around the stave with your foot in the loop, could also be used) - the picture shows the process of cutting out the handle. Normally I start on one side and gradually work down to the lines as far as half way along the handle - then switch sides and do the other end, carrying on doing this until I have got down to just above the lines.
Once you have finished this second cut, the bow should have a rectangular or squarish profile, depending on the thickness of the branch/stave
3 4
3, This is the stage when you start cutting away on the belly side of the bow (facing the archer) producing a more pyramid profile and finally cutting down onto the dimension lines (some may not want to go any where near these lines until near the end of the tillering stage and that fine)
4, This photo shows the gradual process of cutting down to the pyamid profile. On a shaving horse you are able to work on both sides of the bow, better ensuring a equal amount of wood is taken off both sides as you work your way down to the nocks.
This stage takes time - you may have to cut down each side about a dozen times to get to the pyamind profile, but this is your bow and you want it to be a good one and try not to use an axe or power tool to speed it along. I have ruined a many good bows that way!
Once it gets to the state shown in the photo you need to cut the sharp ridges to then form a D profile ensuring that the depth between the back (that side facing a target) and the belly is not below 1/2 inch - IF you can just bend the bow, as shown in photo 5, then stop cutting.
5
The strenght of a bow is more important then how it looks at this stage. I could just bend it this far (so its probably only about 5lbs - only joking!). Don't bend it too far - too much stress on the wood could damage it at this stage
The next stage is floor tillering - this is when you only cut on areas along the bow where it does not bend - and again take your time and don't take huge amounts off - from here onwards you are only cutting away waffer slices of wood. may not sound much, but its surprising how fast your bows poundage can drop - remember you can always remove wood but you cannot put it back on. After any amounts of wood are taken off the bow, bend it slowly a dozen times when the full effect of the wood removal should be evident.
Once both sides of the bow seem to bend evenly (does'nt have to be exact) then temporary nocks are cut into each end at equal distances from the centre and a tillering string is placed on the bow ( a good strong string that is longer then the bow) and the proper tillering starts which I will cover in another post.
Hope this helps Eric, apologise if I went on but seeing as it a public thread, thought I should include all. Will post thread on Ash Board comparison tomorrow/soon.
Troy
There are members out there who are also better or have more experiance then me at this and if there is any thing they think is wrong or can add, then please do - we are all here to drain each others brains, so to speak.
1 2
1, after peeling bark off a length of the branch/stave is chosen that is most free of knots (curves and twist can either be avoided or used for extra character or to increase final strength). Next the dimensions and shape of bow are drawn on (flat bow in this case).
I do this by first drawing centre line down length of bow, then finding the centre/middle and draw in the handle dimensions followed by sides and finally nocks.
Now the cutting starts on the sides first. If there is alot of wood to be removed I use an axe (gransfors camp or sportmans axe should do).
Note at this stage you are just roughing out to the shape of the bow and not cutting down as far as the dimension lines - any hasty misstakes at this stage and especially at the next stages with heavy handiness with the axe could ruin or force you to change the bow you are making. Also it is a good idea to get into the habit of cutting from the centre towards each nock and not end to end -this helps to keep each side of the bow shape identical and the final tillering easier.
2, Once the roughing out has finished, I have used a drawknife on a shaving horse to showing start cutting down to the dimension lines (a cleaving brake or a lenght of cord tied into a prusik knot around the stave with your foot in the loop, could also be used) - the picture shows the process of cutting out the handle. Normally I start on one side and gradually work down to the lines as far as half way along the handle - then switch sides and do the other end, carrying on doing this until I have got down to just above the lines.
Once you have finished this second cut, the bow should have a rectangular or squarish profile, depending on the thickness of the branch/stave
3 4
3, This is the stage when you start cutting away on the belly side of the bow (facing the archer) producing a more pyramid profile and finally cutting down onto the dimension lines (some may not want to go any where near these lines until near the end of the tillering stage and that fine)
4, This photo shows the gradual process of cutting down to the pyamid profile. On a shaving horse you are able to work on both sides of the bow, better ensuring a equal amount of wood is taken off both sides as you work your way down to the nocks.
This stage takes time - you may have to cut down each side about a dozen times to get to the pyamind profile, but this is your bow and you want it to be a good one and try not to use an axe or power tool to speed it along. I have ruined a many good bows that way!
Once it gets to the state shown in the photo you need to cut the sharp ridges to then form a D profile ensuring that the depth between the back (that side facing a target) and the belly is not below 1/2 inch - IF you can just bend the bow, as shown in photo 5, then stop cutting.
5
The strenght of a bow is more important then how it looks at this stage. I could just bend it this far (so its probably only about 5lbs - only joking!). Don't bend it too far - too much stress on the wood could damage it at this stage
The next stage is floor tillering - this is when you only cut on areas along the bow where it does not bend - and again take your time and don't take huge amounts off - from here onwards you are only cutting away waffer slices of wood. may not sound much, but its surprising how fast your bows poundage can drop - remember you can always remove wood but you cannot put it back on. After any amounts of wood are taken off the bow, bend it slowly a dozen times when the full effect of the wood removal should be evident.
Once both sides of the bow seem to bend evenly (does'nt have to be exact) then temporary nocks are cut into each end at equal distances from the centre and a tillering string is placed on the bow ( a good strong string that is longer then the bow) and the proper tillering starts which I will cover in another post.
Hope this helps Eric, apologise if I went on but seeing as it a public thread, thought I should include all. Will post thread on Ash Board comparison tomorrow/soon.
Troy