Best sharpening stone ...
- Thread starter Adi007
- Start date
-
Come along to the amazing Summer Moot (21st July - 2nd August), a festival of bushcrafting and camping in a beautiful woodland PLEASE CLICK HERE for more information.
Stones?
I strop all my knives and Axes on 400 grit waterproof sandpaper, saturated with brasso metal polish and attached on some cardboard and wood. Will do for both flat and convex edges. I only use this when the blade is getting blunt. The metal polish coating makes the sandpaper a bit less aggressive.
The other side of the wooden board has only cardboard, again saturated with brasso metal polish. This is normally used for maintaining the edge.
This makes for a light and cheap package that will give you a razor edge in no time.
I experimented with waterstones and ceramic stones in the past, but find them too clumsy, heavy and too expensive in the field. You sacrifice a lot of sharpening area to keep the weight down.
-Emile
I strop all my knives and Axes on 400 grit waterproof sandpaper, saturated with brasso metal polish and attached on some cardboard and wood. Will do for both flat and convex edges. I only use this when the blade is getting blunt. The metal polish coating makes the sandpaper a bit less aggressive.
The other side of the wooden board has only cardboard, again saturated with brasso metal polish. This is normally used for maintaining the edge.
This makes for a light and cheap package that will give you a razor edge in no time.
I experimented with waterstones and ceramic stones in the past, but find them too clumsy, heavy and too expensive in the field. You sacrifice a lot of sharpening area to keep the weight down.
-Emile
i suppose that the answer to this question is the same as the question "which is the best knife?", the answer being the one you have with you when you need it.
its all well and good having a proedge 2million and 1, complete with an attacment for sharpening a house brick, but if you don't have it tucked away in your ruck sack when you need to sharpen you knife, its not a lot of good to you is it?
answer to this i think is, have more than one stone/sharpening device, and know how best to use them all, that way, when you need to sharpen something you can, no matter what.
my that was a long reply :shock:
its all well and good having a proedge 2million and 1, complete with an attacment for sharpening a house brick, but if you don't have it tucked away in your ruck sack when you need to sharpen you knife, its not a lot of good to you is it?
answer to this i think is, have more than one stone/sharpening device, and know how best to use them all, that way, when you need to sharpen something you can, no matter what.
my that was a long reply :shock:
but an honest one. i just use the lansky system and my old oilstone. even to sharpen my kukri! sometimes i even use the finest wet and dry paper an a plywood board[ u move the knife not the board]
but they all get a good strop with a leather belt.most importantly!!!
but they all get a good strop with a leather belt.most importantly!!!
as the inner curve of the kuk blade is thicker im not after perfection. although i does need to be sharp. im a carpenter by trade[1 of 2] and have sharpened all sorts of edges.if you use the lansky stones by hand you can achieve a pretty sharp edge but its all about angles and consistency,also the wet and dry on a dowell does very well too.
a kukri needs only to be sharp enough to cut a piece of ordinary printer paper..any finer and you just weaken the edge.
saying that though i like a razor edge on the last inch of it. :-D
a kukri needs only to be sharp enough to cut a piece of ordinary printer paper..any finer and you just weaken the edge.
saying that though i like a razor edge on the last inch of it. :-D
Jake Rollnick said:
Well, depends on how unprecise ... here's a trick though to get you going - put the tip of your index finger over the spine of the blade and use that as a rough guide and you won't go far wrong!
Two other tips:
- Don't push the blade edge first into the leather
- Keep the angle less than 30 - 45 if you can otherwise you'll take the burr off too quick.
Hope this helps!
