Axe advice please

[sparkplug]

I've used a few here and there over the years, but not many and not regularly.

As part of ongoing renovations at Sparkplug Towers we are about to install a wood burning stove - my first!

I'm guessing that buying logs will be cheaper than buying pre-split stuff and have started reading up about axes.

Pretty much everyone raves about the quality of the Gransfors range and I've seen a couple close up which certainly impressed me for the money. I'd be happy with these, but am open to any other suggestions you might have.

I'm working on the assumption that I'm going to want one larger axe for splitting the logs and a smaller hatchet to make kindling?

I'm sure there's a lot of you with plenty of experience out there I'd be really grateful for your guidance.

Thanks

 

[Draven]

If you're just after a kindling splitter mate, I wouldn't bother with a GB - way too much money for the task it's doing!

I believe Axminster sells a bearded axe it calls a "Japanese Hand Axe". I believe Robin Wood has one and said it makes a great kindling splitter. It's about £20 IIRC, which you could still beat by quite a margin, last time we had an open fire and a range I split the wood with a hatchet that looked like it was used for breaking rocks...

How big are the logs? If you're talking about the short logs about 1' long which is what we got, I again used my rubbish little hatchet - you certainly wouldn't need a maul. If you are splitting big logs though, something like this would be a big help.

Alternatively, you can get fibreglass handled hatchets and larger axes pretty cheap these days - not great quality, but as long as you can put a half-decent edge on it it'll do. You could probably get a smaller one and a big one for £20 if you looked around...

You may also want to try a kindling knife. Just a big whopper of a chopper, some people get on with them better than axes when you get down to smaller bits of wood.

Hope this helps!
Pete

 

[SimonM]

Why not buy a proper log splitter? It will save you hours of labour and can be picked up from the likes of Machine Mart.

 

[British Red]

I split my own wood. If you are planning to buy wood "in the round" (12-18" high sections of tree trunk), you will need a good maul, some steel wedges and a smaller axe. Slam the maul into the round to establish the split, if its a big round, withdraw maul, insert wedge, hammer with (hardened) maul poll, when split runs, insert second wedge and knocking in, then alternate whaling on the wedges.

When the round has split I generally find I can reduce the pieces with a maul.

An axe is useful for taking the "chunks" to burning size. For true kindling a kindling knife is very useful.

A maul can be had for c. £35 - look for something in the 6 to 8 pound range.

Wedges are a few quid each

If you want to practice, I have a couple of trees sectioned and ready to go

Real cheapness can be had (if you have the room) by having a logging truck give you whole tree trunks to section yourself - but you will need a saw and all the PPE involved (plus training). This will cost several hundred for the gear so you will need to be serious for it to pay back

Red

 

[HillBill]

I reckon for what you want the Bahco range will be perfect. cheaper than GB but very well regarded none the less. I have one of their mauls and it is good at its job and well made.

Here
http://www.tooled-up.com/ManSubCategory.asp?MID=BAH&CID=3&SCID=7

 

[sparkplug]

I think I'll be looking to buy wood 'in the round' if I can - any bigger and I can't justify it.

I'm having my first ever wood burning stove installed and it's really just a luxury - I'm not relying on it for heating or hot water, it's just for those evenings when you want to be hypnotised by a flame...

Sounds like a maul, some wedges and a hatchet will serve me well.

Thanks for all the ideas - I'll have to mull over the cheaper more practical soulless tool vs the more 'artisanally made' ones which will have more character...

Thanks again

 

[British Red]

I was splitting and sectioning some wood at the weekend so I thought a few photos of what I use might help

Now much of this if you buy "in the round" won't be needed. But not many places actually sell like that (since most of the work is then done). So what do we have - 6.5lb maul, saw bench (with sprung tension safety chain), electric 14" chainsaw (I use a big old Husqy for heavy work but my petrol mac is brilliant for sectioning up limbs), helmet and gloves.

Note that, when taking this, I am wearing steel toecaps and a proper class 1 saw protective bib and braces PPE (Personal Protection equipement). The helmet and boots are a must even for regular splitting IMO

This is the "action shot"

A proper saw bench holds the log firm via the "safety chain" allowing solo working. The joy of the electric saw is that its "passive" when you release the trigger. Many would tell me I should alsoe be wearing a saw jacket at this point but on the basis the saw only ever cuts down and is never raised above waist height (and it was 30 degrees) I relented. Stupid really - kick back still applies!

So to illustrate my stupidity...."should have gone to specsavers"

This stuff really does get you cheap firewood - but the "vogue" for woodburning means without the ability to process your own. If you are going to go the saw route though, be safe, buy PPE and attend a course in handling at your local college

Red

 

[jimford]

I
A maul can be had for c. £35 - look for something in the 6 to 8 pound range.

I got an 8 lb maul from Screwfix for under £20:

http://tinyurl.com/qqsv69

Get one in your hands and you feel invincible!

Wedges are a few quid each

Again from Screwfix, I bought a 'Log Grenade':

http://tinyurl.com/qxh2b6

Jim

 

[demographic]

I have a maul and a wood grenade, to be honest the mauls so good that I don't really need the wood grenade.

Theres very little that gives a good maul serious problems.

Mines just like THIS one, not sure if its actually a Silverline one but I would put money on it being made in the same factory and as far as I can tell its exactly the same as the Stihl ones as well.

Now I can see the point in spending good money on felling axes and good hatchets but that maul isn't at all expensive and the shape is perfect as far as I see it.

Felling axes are nothing like as good at splitting wood as a maul and I even split kindling with it, just hold it right up by the head with one hand and you don't have to move it anything like as fast as a hatchet, it's shape and weight does all the hard work.

I do have a couple of chainsaws as well which can help matters a bit sometimes as well.

 

[sparkplug]

Thanks for the pics and advice British Red - the last pic made me laugh!

I suppose I need to go shopping around for wood suppliers locally and see what's available before spending any of the hard earned on kit I might not need...

 

[jimford]

Mines just like THIS one, not sure if its actually a Silverline one but I would put money on it being made in the same factory and as far as I can tell its exactly the same as the Stihl ones as well.

But it's only 6lb - a boys one!

More seriously, the Screwfix one has a fibreglass handle which while not as 'nice' as a hickory one, is more durable. In my enthusiasm, I've missed a few times and the handle has hit the log. A hickory handle wouldn't stand up to that sort of abuse for long.


Jim

 

[demographic]

But it's only 6lb - a boys one!

More seriously, the Screwfix one has a fibreglass handle which while not as 'nice' as a hickory one, is more durable. In my enthusiasm, I've missed a few times and the handle has hit the log. A hickory handle wouldn't stand up to that sort of abuse for long.


Jim

Dunno, I have used heavier ones which were badly shaped and nothing like as good at its job as the one I have and the hickory handle had only been a slight problem when my brother used the hammer side of it to smash through my brick kitchen wall into the wash house when I was extenting my kitchen and its got scabbled a bit.

The good shape seems to make the biggest difference to how they work as far as I have noticed, a mate has one from Lidl or Aldi and its nothing like as good.

 

[Old Pa]

A few Council Tools axes on the floor of my shed; this old school North Carolina firm was featured last season on History Channel's "Modern Marvels" series on axes:

At the top is their 3.5# Jersey Axe with a 36" curved handle. Below it is their 2.25# Boy's Axe with a 28" curved handle; I find this size axe very handy about the garden. Third is their 1.75" Hudson's Bay Axe with an 18" handle (this axe can be had with a good sheath); this is my particular favorite for out of the vehicle in in the bush. The final implement is Council Tool's Brush Hog. The the top three axes are supplied with blades hardened to Rockwell 45-55, the Brush Hog, intended for roots and grubbing about the ground, is supplied with a much softer blade so as not to chip and chunk out on rocks and such.

I have no idea if Council Tools products are available in your part of the world. If not, then welcome to how I feel about being frustrated in getting some of your fine products.

All these axes show the results of my preliminary efforts to reshape their blades. I suppose that it is common knowledge that in the States axes have always been supplied with their heads unshaped and unsharpened, leaving these choices to the skills and preferences of the final user. Indeed, in North Ameirca until the last fifty years, axe heads were commonly presented "unhung" leaving choice of handle shape and length to the final user, as well as handle fitment.

This is my present sharpening bench for mower blades, axes, and other rough and large blades.

Note the heavy leather gloves and the guard made of heavy split garden hose on the twelve inch mill b*astard (thank you, censor software) file: these are mandatory when sharpening. The file card keeps the file clean and the Quik-Clamps keep the blade secure. I've added plywood plates to the ends of the sawhorse to increase its stability. I plan to add additional bracing to further increase both weight and stability.

Of course, if you prefer an axe already sharp at purchase, there are Gransfors Bruks:

While all Gransfors Bruks axes are desirable, these are my favorite in their line. At top is the GS Scandinavian Forest Axe, below would be a GS Small Forest Axe, and at bottom is a GS Wildlife Hatchet. All are quite lovely and ,perhaps, somewhat of a bargain when you consider supplying the facility and several hours of skilled labor to produce as good a blade shape and edge on a more commonly produced axe.