Auger

[Pattree]

Sorry if this is a lame question but:

Following the wooden whistle thread I am now searching for (and have found) a suitable auger. While looking I saw a number of ads for a “Survival Auger” or a “ Bushcraft Auger” with a belt sheath.

What’s it for?

 

[Kadushu]

Making a hole for a tenon, such as in building a fire crane or shelter. It could also make be the start for a container, such as a simple beaker, the bowl of a spoon, or hollowing out a shrink pot... And many more uses!

 

[TLM]

What’s it for?

To build a raft from the logs you cut with the barbed wire saw?

 

[Mesquite]

What’s it for?

Drilling holes in things

 

[Wander]

While looking I saw a number of ads for a “Survival Auger” or a “ Bushcraft Auger” with a belt sheath.

What’s it for?

To fleece you of money.

 

[Pattree]

ah! Thanks. I see. In order to survive I must perforate!

Looking at associated threads that popped up after I’d posted mine the idea of a three legged stool looked interesting. I’ll get my auger out of the boot of my car rather than lug it around on my belt. I shall make a (wooden!!! (finger wag)) stool when I get the need/opportunity.

Total aside:- I only type very slowly and so tend to use the iPhone “thumb skid” method of writing. I may be the only person in the universe that uses it. There are huge discrepancies between what I think I wrote and what appears. My iPhone suggests I use a duvet rather than an auger and writing pooped when I intended popped in association with stools wasn’t helpful.

@Wander - twas ever thus
@Mesquite useful at sea.
@TLM I’ll hold your coat and learn from you.

 

[ManFriday4]

The Bushcraft "Survival" auger /"settler tool" is a scotch Auger with a minor modification to the eye.

Scotch augers (google "Scotch auger") are old world green woodworking tools. It's easier to do woodwork with hand tools on green wood because it's softer & easier to work.

You could use it to make log rocket stoves, but make them green & keep the to dry out, or you could make a 3 legged stool with an axe and auger.

I bought one for £8. The pouch is irrelevant, bin it. It's difficult to use with well seasoned wood but is fine with green wood. You have trouble holding a cut log. Working the log still attached to the auger tree is easier. Cutting across the grain is easier than cutting into it down the center of the log.

The eye modification is that it has been sharpened and the eye size matches the auger diameter so theoretically it can be used to make a tenon. So if you were making a stool you could fox wedge the legs into the holes. (Fox wedge is a hidden wedge). Getting this right takes practice.

Not a bad tool. Try and buy it with a real leather pouch or no pouch.

 

[Pattree]

I took a look and the “Bushcraft Auger” is no different at the working end from other four and five blade auger drills so I bought a set of those and a 6mm hex / half inch square converter for a ratchet wrench .
They seem ok cross grain but rely too much on the centre screw to get any bite working with the grain. I had hoped to hollow narrow branch . They work with power driver or drill but I’d hoped for a hand drilling option.
And then …… My lovely son had heard what I was looking for and bought me the bushcraft version. Oh well!

 

[ManFriday4]

I took a look and the “Bushcraft Auger” is no different at the working end from other four and five blade auger drills so I bought a set of those and a 6mm hex / half inch square converter for a ratchet wrench .
They seem ok cross grain but rely too much on the centre screw to get any bite working with the grain. I had hoped to hollow narrow branch . They work with power driver or drill but I’d hoped for a hand drilling option.
And then …… My lovely son had heard what I was looking for and bought me the bushcraft version. Oh well!

To use a drill based auger, the old ones have a wedge shaped square drive at the end and are designed to fit in a Brace & bit see below

Brace & Bit

https://flic.kr/p/2p1LduX

Square drive auger bits

https://flic.kr/p/2p1JKnU

Survival scotch auger with sharpened ring

https://flic.kr/p/2p1HPWn

1 1/2" scotch auger.

https://flic.kr/p/2p1JSUN

A Brace and bit is made so you can get your weight behind it. But they only really work well with the square drive bits.

If you want decent augers over 1 1/4 in diameter the price just quite dramatically.

The best place in the UK for old world woodworking tools is Bristol Design Tools.

 

[Pattree]

They still rely on that little screw at the end and it can’t pull the blades along the grain at low speed. Fine cross grain.

I think I’m going to have to split and rout the branch to hollow it.

 

[ManFriday4]

They still rely on that little screw at the end and it can’t pull the blades along the grain at low speed. Fine cross grain.

I think I’m going to have to split and rout the branch to hollow it.

The thing is they aren't really designed for going into the end grain and augers are better on green wood than dry wood. For dry wood I use Forstner bits.

Are you using green wood or seasoned (kiln dried)?

For chair bodging, ideally you want to put a dry tenon in a wet mortise.

 

[Kepis]

They still rely on that little screw at the end and it can’t pull the blades along the grain at low speed. Fine cross grain.

My Scotch eyed augers work just fine cutting along the grain, albeit they have a much coarser thread on the lead screw than modern augers, and trust me with arthritis hands, shoulders and elbows, the speed at which they cut is slow is almost sedentary.

Likewise, my spoon auger that i got from Dave Budd of this parish works just fine going along the grain and that doesn't have a lead screw at all

 

[ManFriday4]

My Scotch eyed augers work just fine cutting along the grain, albeit they have a much coarser thread on the lead screw than modern augers, and trust me with arthritis hands, shoulders and elbows, the speed at which they cut is slow is almost sedentary.

Likewise, my spoon auger that i got from Dave Budd of this parish works just fine going along the grain and that doesn't have a lead screw at all

On green wood?

 

[Stew]

They still rely on that little screw at the end and it can’t pull the blades along the grain at low speed. Fine cross grain.

I think I’m going to have to split and rout the branch to hollow it.

You don’t have to drill it in one go.

Predrill around the size of the lead screw. A bit under will be fine and you’ll still get an amount of benefit from the lead screw.

 

[Pattree]

I’m trying to find a “Bushcraft”, Outdoor, Hand tool way of making a flute. I can make them out of most things but thus far if I want to make flute from a branch thus far I need power tools.
I need to get down 225mm from one end and about 60 down the other end leaving a 20mm blockage. This would be a 20mm bore in a 30 - 35mm dia branch.
The 1N traditional way is to split and scrape and I think that’s where I’m headed.

 

[Stew]

Ok

 

[ManFriday4]

I’m trying to find a “Bushcraft”, Outdoor, Hand tool way of making a flute. I can make them out of most things but thus far if I want to make flute from a branch thus far I need power tools.
I need to get down 225mm from one end and about 60 down the other end leaving a 20mm blockage. This would be a 20mm bore in a 30 - 35mm dia branch.
The 1N traditional way is to split and scrape and I think that’s where I’m headed.

Nice, what about elder, it contains pith.

 

[ManFriday4]

@Pattree
Look at this

 

[Pattree]

Thanks for the video.
It’s very like making a flute from bamboo which I have done several times.

I’ve been making flutes for a long time out of all sorts of things.
What I am attempting to produce now is a flute that can be made at a moot or gathering. To this end I need to make what is technically a pipe rather than a flute. This is to be sure that everyone that I teach can make it and play it. The embouchure or lip control needed to play a true flute like the one in the video can be difficult and some folk never manage it. Blowing a pipe (or whistle) is simpler but the instrument is more complicated.
I already run making sessions at festivals and for groups. Participants learn to make and play the flute in a day (occasionally two hours!) but they are made out of plastic conduit. It is vital that everyone can be successful before I offer a workshop.

It doesn’t really matter if I end up not being able to do it. I may be asking too much.

Thus far an auger isn’t the answer.

 

[ManFriday4]

Thanks for the video.
It’s very like making a flute from bamboo which I have done several times.

I’ve been making flutes for a long time out of all sorts of things.
What I am attempting to produce now is a flute that can be made at a moot or gathering. To this end I need to make what is technically a pipe rather than a flute. This is to be sure that everyone that I teach can make it and play it. The embouchure or lip control needed to play a true flute like the one in the video can be difficult and some folk never manage it. Blowing a pipe (or whistle) is simpler but the instrument is more complicated.
I already run making sessions at festivals and for groups. Participants learn to make and play the flute in a day (occasionally two hours!) but they are made out of plastic conduit. It is vital that everyone can be successful before I offer a workshop.

It doesn’t really matter if I end up not being able to do it. I may be asking too much.

Thus far an auger isn’t the answer.

I asked an Uillean bagpipe maker I know about hoe homages his pipe and chanters. But he uses a drill on a lathe.

I like the idea though.