Article: What's in a knife
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A usefull write up 
However, I have never heard of a convex grind being called a "Scandinavian" grind before.
From what I understand a "Scandi" is what is illustrated as a "flat Bevel" - often with a secondary "micro bevel" right at the edge.
In my experience a "Flat grind" normally extends from the edge to the back of the blade ...
However, I have never heard of a convex grind being called a "Scandinavian" grind before.
From what I understand a "Scandi" is what is illustrated as a "flat Bevel" - often with a secondary "micro bevel" right at the edge.
In my experience a "Flat grind" normally extends from the edge to the back of the blade ...
A usefull write up
However, I have never heard of a convex grind being called a "Scandinavian" grind before.
From what I understand a "Scandi" is what is illustrated as a "flat Bevel" - often with a secondary "micro bevel" right at the edge.
In my experience a "Flat grind" normally extends from the edge to the back of the blade ...
I have heard that just the other day, but always thought the same as you, apart from it did not have secondary bevel and was flat the the whole depth of the grind,
maybe it's a term only used in northern europe? it certainly isn't common to call a convex a scandi in any place I'm aware of..
Perrari
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
I'm with John Fenna on the scandi not being a convex. Thanks for taking the time an effort in doing this though, will help a lot of peeps in choosing the right tool.
A usefull write up
However, I have never heard of a convex grind being called a "Scandinavian" grind before...
You're dead right John a convex grind is NOT a scandi grind thanks for spotting it and pointing it out ( I'm the author ). What it is meant to read as is ".....often used in Scandinavian knives and being referred to as the Scandinavian grind but this actually refers to a style of flat bevel where the bevel runs part way up the face of the blade". It was meant to clarify confusion not cause it, sorry folks. I have rectified this on my website but cant change it here. Thanks.
I applaud your attempt at tackling not just one, but multiple, topics in one article. I certainly wouldn't have liked to try it.
However, the article is riddled with so many over-simplifications and inaccuracies that it may cause more harm than good to a novice, trying to use this site to increase their knowledge of the subjects covered. Just for example:
"Cold Steel" - No such thing; you should be referring to the cold working of the steel.
"Stainless steel is an alloy of carbon steel and chromium." - There's much more to it than that. E.g. Chromium content of at least 12%, and even that isn't always agreed upon.
Damascus & Laminated listed as 2 different types of metal - Damascus is a laminated steel. I would also disagree with your reasoning behind the use of laminated steel.
It's the same for the remaining sections of the article.
I know this post may come over as unnecessarily harsh. I don't mean it to, but I see no point in perpetuating the errors - something which is done all too often on the internet.
However, the article is riddled with so many over-simplifications and inaccuracies that it may cause more harm than good to a novice, trying to use this site to increase their knowledge of the subjects covered. Just for example:
"Cold Steel" - No such thing; you should be referring to the cold working of the steel.
"Stainless steel is an alloy of carbon steel and chromium." - There's much more to it than that. E.g. Chromium content of at least 12%, and even that isn't always agreed upon.
Damascus & Laminated listed as 2 different types of metal - Damascus is a laminated steel. I would also disagree with your reasoning behind the use of laminated steel.
It's the same for the remaining sections of the article.
I know this post may come over as unnecessarily harsh. I don't mean it to, but I see no point in perpetuating the errors - something which is done all too often on the internet.
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Needs considerable editing
" Carbon steel will rust and pattern over time, it is a softer type of steel"
Nope, generally carbon steel is harder.
"Choose a fixed blade knife as folding knives have an inherent weakness as the blade is not one piece and at some stage they will break. "
Anyone here actually broken a folding knife?
You should point out the difference between a locking and a slipjoint folding knife. That's very important for beginners to know.
You mention a 'spear point'. If this is for beginners then maybe put in a picture illustrating what you mean. I'm not sure what you mean.
Damascus steel does not cut through 'other european swords or even rock'.
" Carbon steel will rust and pattern over time, it is a softer type of steel"
Nope, generally carbon steel is harder.
"Choose a fixed blade knife as folding knives have an inherent weakness as the blade is not one piece and at some stage they will break. "
Anyone here actually broken a folding knife?
You should point out the difference between a locking and a slipjoint folding knife. That's very important for beginners to know.
You mention a 'spear point'. If this is for beginners then maybe put in a picture illustrating what you mean. I'm not sure what you mean.
Damascus steel does not cut through 'other european swords or even rock'.
I think this is a great effort and very largely correct. I would like to see some of the critical "experts" above do as well.
I quite agree maybe one or two questionable comments but great clarification and a good starting point to investigate further if you really want to.
Thanks
I have.
A small log splitting task (batoning). Pin didn't break, it was the locking part of the "tang" that sheared. Have known pins to loosen, too, giving for a level of play in the blade, even when locked.
I now have an instinctive mistrust and dislike of folders. Suitable only as backup and/or for light use - in my opinion. Each to their own. I've had no problems with Opinels (even batoning) which is just as well 'cause I'd never spend more than £12 on a folder. Why would you need to? Sadly, I tend to use (or carry) my customised (drop point and therefore shortened) Opinel #9 more than my fixed blade knife, for legal compliance in the UK.
A good article on a contentious subject even if it requires a couple of finishing tweaks. This is one of those subjects that would attract what might seem like heavy and/or pedantic criticism if ambiguous or incorrect by an iota. In my opinion, very few people would be able to write such an article without some inaccuracies - and criticism. Well done for putting your head over the parapet, so to speak.
I've learnt much from it - thanks Johnny!
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I've actually broken two. But not at the supposed weak joint. Both were broken within a half inch of the tip and TBH a fixed blade would have done the same.
However in other threads I've mentioned "wearing out" smaller folding knives. The joint is indeed what usually wore out with them.
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