Archery thread

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Doc

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Nov 29, 2003
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Given that half of last night's 'Bushcraft' program was on primitive archery, I thought an archery thread would be interesting. Especially as there are a few folk here who know much more about it than I do.

I've had a few lessons but never was too keen on formal target archery, and the 'local' field archery club is none too local. Also I intend to take a Bushcrafty/outdoors trip to Alaska or Canada when the boys are older, and I vaguely wondered about the possibility of bowhunting there - if I could reach an acceptable skill level. (Please note that bowhunting is illegal in the UK, and also some experienced UK archers question the ethics of it.)

I acquired a Bear Tigercat recurve bow for £45 or so - it's a thing of beauty with exotic wood in the riser (middle bit) and laminated limbs. Made in 1968, in Michigan. 62" length, pulls 45lb - which is regarded in America as a 'beginners' weight but is still legal for hunting deer in most states. In the UK, where target archery predominates, 45lbs is regarded as far too much bow for a beginner, and can impair the development of good technique.

I made some cedar arrows (not difficult- you buy the components to asssemble) and I'm having a great time practising instinctive shooting (ie, without sights). I don't find the 45lb draw weight a problem.

Well worth doing. The satisfaction when you hit the target is tremendous. Indeed, archery must be as old a skill as fire making, and releasing a few arrows gives that 'hard-to-explain-but-deeply-ingrained' satisfaction akin to making and sitting around a campfire. I'd urge anyone to have a go, but a bit of tuition in the beginning makes life much easier.

Of course, the next step is to try making the bow and arrows from natural materials only......
 

Tony

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I really do enjoy archery, I've not had a lot of opportunity but I’m eager for more. At the gathering I had a go with the bamboo bow that Chris made and it was lovely, easy to shoot, accurate and consistent. It really got me wanting to do more. I just need the time to do it :roll:
 

RovingArcher

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Jun 27, 2004
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Well, you know us Americans, the bigger the better. :roll: My opinion is that for a strong man, 45# is ok, but a beginner should start with a 30-35# bow maximum, depending on strength of shooter, so that proper form can be accomplished. Then accuracy will start forming on a more consistent basis. In fact, again my opinion, but accuracy shouldn't even be considered until form is rock solid and consistent. I'd suggest getting within a few steps of the target backstop and closing the eyes so that you can feel your way through the shot instead of looking and concentrating on the target. Once form is solid and consistent, then back up some and start shooting for accuracy.

One thing to keep in mind is, even though your upper body form can be carried through to hunting, you are likely to find yourself missing a lot unless you practice at unknown distances and under hunting conditions, which is where roving comes into play. They like to call it "stump shooting" in the states, but it's really just walking in the woods and taking shots at weeds, clumps of grass, pine cones, etc. Unknown distances and threading the arrow over, under, between, etc., obstructions between you and your intended target. It's a lot of fun too. :wink:

Once you are confident in your shooting with target points and roving points like the Ace hex blunt or Zwickey judo point, then you should start practicing with your hunting arrows (including broadheads) from whatever vantage you will be using to hunt. For instance, if the plan is to hunt from a tree stand, then you will need to practice from one at the same height and practice shooting at deer sized targets at all angles from the tree, as well as several practical distances. You will also need to study the animal so you know where to place the arrow so that it will take out the lungs from an elevated possition. You would be amazed at how far an animal can run without a heart, but take out it's lungs and they will drop within a relatively short distance.

Same if your intentions are to hunt from a ground blind or while still hunting (stalking). You must practice as you'll be hunting, or missing the animal or worse yet, wounding the animal, is a definite possibility. Missing is ok, but wounding isn't a good thing at all. It happens, even with firearms, but practicing to be the best shot you can be is of the utmost importance when preparing for the hunt. Also, you will need to hunt the wind and thermals, so understanding how your scent is carried on both and under what conditions is especially important.

Then, you will need to learn to blood trail the animal and then the real work starts with needing to know how to skin and field dress the animal, unless you will be hunting with a guide service, then they will do it for you. Good idea to know anyway though.

I don't understand the reasoning that bowhunting may not be an ethical or efficient means of killing animals. What comes to my mind is that our ancestors used the bow to hunt for 20,000+ years before the firearm was developed and somehow we managed to make it into the modern times.
 

C_Claycomb

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Oct 6, 2003
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If you are even remotely serious about going hunting in the US, especially somewhere like Alaska, go get a subscription to Traditional Bowhunter. I got it for about 3 years, lots of good articles detailing hunts all over the world, everything from bear on Kodiak to buff in Africa to deer in Australia. They have LOTS of adds for outfitters which would be my main reason for getting it if I was planning a trip far away.

Also, reading the numerous tails of other people's hunts gives a better idea of what is involved. Don't underestimate the accuracy needed, EVERY arrow in an 8 inch disk at hunting range is the minimum, that takes regular practice.

http://www.stickbow.com used to have some good threads on hunting Alaska too. Dunno what it is like now though.

As a visitor you are going to need to book a guide in most places. Costs for hunting as a non-resident are pretty high, and if you are going to pay those, plus travel, it is probably worth having a local (who knows BOWHUNTING) to show you around.

I am with you Doc, formal target shooting really did start to put me off after a time. Roving is much more fun. Judo points rock :super:
 

Doc

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Nov 29, 2003
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I think a licensed guide is compulsory for 'aliens' hunting 'big game' (whether with bow or rifle) in Alaska. Thanks for all the info. I got a sample copy of Traditional Bowhunter (5 us dollars, air mail to the UK - ie, cheaper than a magazine at the local shop!!!) and it is a very good read, written by nice people. I might well subscribe.

I'm told the average distance for deer harvested in the US with a traditional bow is 17 yards. I'm fortunate in that I can safely practice at home up to about 30 yards. As my youngest is just two, I reckon I've got about eight to ten years of practice before any serious trip to Alaska or Canada (mind you, every month the medical journal carries adverts for family physician vacancies in rural British Columbia- I am sorely tempted, but my wife is not! Rats!).

I enjoy the practice immensely. It is also a good 'family' thing, and even my 2 year old can shoot an arrow from his big brothers recurve bow (9lb draw).

If you are in the UK and interested in traditional/field/bushcraft -type archery Tom Foy at http://www.archery-centre.co.uk/ is a good source of equipment and advice.

Interestingly, Traditional Bowhunter sometimes features pictures of British hunters after successful hunts abroad.

I would agree 45lb is too heavy a bow to start with. I had a 25lb glassfibre bow when I was a teenager, and it was about right.

Digressing slightly, in the program Ray made a bow and arrows from scratch in the woods. Of course, he also had lots of time, the county's best flint knapper and a master bowyer to help him!
Assuming you had a couple of days, good natural resources (non-seasoned wood, cordage, flint), is it feasible to make a bow and arrows which will be acceptably accurate (lets say 8 inch target at 17 yards)? What do you think? Anyone done it? :shock:
 

alick

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Aug 29, 2003
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Northwich, Cheshire
I'm new into the fileld archery game but enjoying it a lot. I have a very good local club which is convenient. I use a 40lb recurve - a little unusual as it's a short hunting style bow only 53inches tip to tip. Perhaps 15 inches shorter than the norm. It does put more pressure on the fingers but is easier to maneouver around the wood. I'm in the middle of assembling my first dozen cedar arrows. Although I selected the shafts carefully before I bought, I notice that the POC is not as straight as on the day of purchase. This makes me very interested to try some shafts made by a canadian supplier who uniquely make a shaft that is assembled from six segments like a traditional fly rod to minimise the chance of warping.

I'd like to try roving but no doubt the problem will be to find a landowner willing to let me wander around sticking arrows in things ! Cheshire's a bit a "managed" for that sort of thing :nono:

Cheers
 

Simon

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Jul 22, 2004
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Addington, Surrey
Ditto on the roving ... can't imagine where it could be done though ... what kind of points to use? ... as I can imagine getting an arrow stuck in a trunk and it being a pig to remove ..... and my success rate at removing arrows firmly stuck in wooden target frames and immediately sticking it in my cheek is as high as I would like it to be and don't want it any higher :yikes:

shooting a 60" Sammick Spirit II Hunter traditional TD recurve @ 45lb
: -l) :eek:):
 

Oakleaf

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Jun 6, 2004
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Moray
I have dabbled in Archery for quite awhile - got quite serious - then quite seriously bored - by formal target archery in my youth.

As a shooter, it is with a wry smile that I see the relative perception of the 'public' when viewing bows v firearms. Given the general grief and PR struggles of the shooters, I would urge archers to maintain their 'wholesome' image at all costs!

Stump shooting - there is a special tip - semi blunt with a sprung claw. It flys similiar to a broad head, will stick in wood, but not deeply. Cant for the life of me recall the name - will look it up and revert. Not sure if DG Quick stock it. Quicks are a big UK archery outfit - they do a very good catalogue, which I would recommend to anyone interested in the topic.

Bows etc aside, they stock a big range of components. They also carry a good range of books - ancient and modern technique.

I deer stalk and confess that the idea of bow hunting has crossed my mind ( understand - taking any game in the UK with a bow is illegal ). Commonly, the arrow kills by bleeding out the quarry - hence the razor sharp broad heads. Not every bullet kills immediately - though that is always the goal. But it would seem ( and I speak from no hands on experience ) that on deer size quarry and above, the time from impact to loss of consciousness/ death will be longer.

Hunting to survive is one thing. Choosing a method that potentially increases quarry discomfort when alternatives exist is a concern for me.

I raise this as a talking point. As I say, I have no direct experience of arrow impact effect on game. Equally, other factors - balance with nature, respect for quarry etc all come into play. So please do not read anything here as judgemental - it is not. I would be interested to hear the experiences and views of others - in a constructive discussion.

The late James Douglas ( who was killed in a bow accident ) dealt with bow hunting stories in 'With Gun, rifle and bow'. You often see the book at Gamefairs etc.

I have followed the comments regards weight ( ie draw weight ). I think 25-35 lb is about right to start. Many training bows are too light - which can make release harder. Much depends on the person. But getting the technique right is the bedrock of all that follows.

Moving away from self constructed bows, but the compound is something to consider. In modern compound bows, eccentric cams give a let-off - commonly 50-60% of the peak draw weight. So you may have a 75lb bow, but the holding weight is 40lb. That make any sense? Many compounds tend to be quite short - so the string angle at draw may require the use of a release aid.

I have seen pictures of Native American compound bows - consisting of two traditional recurve bows bound back to back. The effect was similiar to the cammed bows. Anyone had experience with these?
 

RovingArcher

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Jun 27, 2004
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Monterey Peninsula, Ca., USA
Oakleaf said:
As a shooter, it is with a wry smile that I see the relative perception of the 'public' when viewing bows v firearms. Given the general grief and PR struggles of the shooters, I would urge archers to maintain their 'wholesome' image at all costs!

Stump shooting - there is a special tip - semi blunt with a sprung claw. It flys similiar to a broad head, will stick in wood, but not deeply. Cant for the life of me recall the name - will look it up and revert. Not sure if DG Quick stock it. Quicks are a big UK archery outfit - they do a very good catalogue, which I would recommend to anyone interested in the topic.

Bows etc aside, they stock a big range of components. They also carry a good range of books - ancient and modern technique.

I deer stalk and confess that the idea of bow hunting has crossed my mind ( understand - taking any game in the UK with a bow is illegal ). Commonly, the arrow kills by bleeding out the quarry - hence the razor sharp broad heads. Not every bullet kills immediately - though that is always the goal. But it would seem ( and I speak from no hands on experience ) that on deer size quarry and above, the time from impact to loss of consciousness/ death will be longer.

Hunting to survive is one thing. Choosing a method that potentially increases quarry discomfort when alternatives exist is a concern for me.

I raise this as a talking point. As I say, I have no direct experience of arrow impact effect on game. Equally, other factors - balance with nature, respect for quarry etc all come into play. So please do not read anything here as judgemental - it is not. I would be interested to hear the experiences and views of others - in a constructive discussion.

The late James Douglas ( who was killed in a bow accident ) dealt with bow hunting stories in 'With Gun, rifle and bow'. You often see the book at Gamefairs etc.

I have followed the comments regards weight ( ie draw weight ). I think 25-35 lb is about right to start. Many training bows are too light - which can make release harder. Much depends on the person. But getting the technique right is the bedrock of all that follows.

Moving away from self constructed bows, but the compound is something to consider. In modern compound bows, eccentric cams give a let-off - commonly 50-60% of the peak draw weight. So you may have a 75lb bow, but the holding weight is 40lb. That make any sense? Many compounds tend to be quite short - so the string angle at draw may require the use of a release aid.

I have seen pictures of Native American compound bows - consisting of two traditional recurve bows bound back to back. The effect was similiar to the cammed bows. Anyone had experience with these?

I agree. Anyone that uses any weapon to take game should live to the highest standards and should hold others to that same standard, no matter who they are and what they do with their lives.

The roving tip you are thining of is the Zwickey Judo Point. They are designed to be a small game head and because of their design, are perfect for roving because it can't snake under the ground cover. You are quite right that arrows are a bear to get out of trunks and stumps, which is why I avoid them. Not to mention that I look at a tree the same as I do a deer. I won't wound a tree if I can help it.

I have seen a lot of animals die from gun and bow. Speaking on deer, I have seen them knocked down by a 30-06 round, get back up and run 40 meters with a broken shoulder and then expire. A bow shot deer will run as well. The longest tracking job I've had after putting an arrow through both lungs was about 35 paces. The average distance of a rifle shot here in the open country is around 150 yards, but can extend out to 300 yards or so. My average shot distance is 15 paces. The longest was about 45 paces on a ground squirrel and the shortest distance was point blank on a Mule Deer. Many hunters sit in a tree and ambush their quarry. I hunt exclusively from the ground on the animals terms. Either weapon is fine, as is any hunting technique.

One thing I can guarantee is, you will not end the life of an animal without causing it pain. Nor will you take an animals life without affecting your own. I find the taking of life to be a spiritual matter and I treat it and the animal with the reverence they deserve and I offer ceremony before, during and after the hunt to cleanse and prepare myself, show respect to, honor and thank my quarry that has given it's all so that my family can live another day and offering thanks to my CREATOR for bringing the animal and myself together in such a good way. Of course, not many people understand why I do what I do, but that's ok, because it's all in how we view ourselves as part of the whole that makes us who and what we are in life.

To offer a comparison, cut yourself with a sharp knife, then smash your hand with a sledge hammer, shattering bones as you do. Now, imagine both hitting you in the chest. That is the difference between the arrow and the bullet. Neither is painless and neither is going to kill you right away.

I agree that a lesser weight is a good thing when starting out. But like you say, too little weight makes the release a problem. Go overly heavy in weight and problems like target panic, short drawing the bow, etc., can and do happen. Then it's very difficult to get back on track and fix those problems.

I used to shoot an older compound, but don't have much experience with the newer compounds other than to say, they were originally designed to make flinging arrows easier so that those who couldn't normally partake in archery, because of physical limitations, could enjoy the sport. Now, because of man's need to do things as quickly as possible and in the easiest possible way, the compound has become the main tool used for archery. Nothing wrong with them, just not my brand of tea. They will make it much easier to become proficient in the sport. Within a relatively short time, you would be hitting consistently, which at first makes for a happy archer. But being perfect is a very dull life in my opinion. I am happiest and gain the most satisfaction when I have to work hard for something and succeed because of my skill and not because of the weapons ease of use.

I have no experience with the NA bow you speak of. I've been to a few tournaments held by Native Americans and most of them use compounds now-a-days. However, there seems to be some traditionalists left that still use the primitive weapons of their ancestors.

My bows are made by bowyers both here in the US and in Canada. I have a 40# 64" Shakespeare Trident recurve, a 45# 62" Martin Hunter recurve (wifes), a 51# 60" Chek-Mate Hunter II 3 piece takedown recurve, a 46# 60" Tim Meigs reflex/deflex Duo-flex longbow (wifes), a 54# 66" Chek-Mate Crusader r/d 2 piece takedown longbow and a 47# 72" Don Brown Woodsman English style longbow. My favorite for both pleasure shooting and hunting being the Crusader.
 

Oakleaf

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Jun 6, 2004
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RA

Thank you for the observations and info. Just logged back on - after fruitless search for the name of those points; Zwicky Judo - thats the one. Amazed it didnt trip right of my tongue :biggthump

Agree with sentiments on trees and respect for quarry - Mitakuye Oyasin!

Read quite a bit on NA bows, but hadnt come across the compound set up - having solved the Zwicky query for me, I'll be wracking my brains as to where I saw it mentioned now :?:

Interesting to hear experience on reaction to shot. Issue of pain/ respect etc is what I was alluding to in my reference to other factors.

Thank you.
 

C_Claycomb

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Oct 6, 2003
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Primitive Compound = Penobscot bow, as on cover of Primitive Archer many years ago. This bow is touched upon in vol 3 of The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, but only briefly.

Is that the one that you were thinking of? No cams, but what amounts to two bows working together.
 

Oakleaf

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Jun 6, 2004
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That sounds like it. No cams as you say, literally two bows joined. Dont think it was any of those sources that I saw it - really bugging me now!
 

Oakleaf

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Jun 6, 2004
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That sounds like it - no cams, just two bows joined. Still cantthink where I saw it - wasnt any of the sources you list - but thank you. Name does ring bell.
 

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