Anvil, finally found one!
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The elastic properties of wood suggest that there will be less echo, less elastic rebound, on wood than a harder base.
More alike a dead-blow hammer. I suppose it depends on what you use it for?
Local farrier has a beautiful new and bright work shop. Every anvil on a stump of wood.
More alike a dead-blow hammer. I suppose it depends on what you use it for?
Local farrier has a beautiful new and bright work shop. Every anvil on a stump of wood.
yes, a temporary set up initially for the rail track anvil but seems to work ok with the brooks. i did put a wood cap on it with a skirt to stop things sliding around
thanks Andy, very informative and thanks for the offer
yes... i paid a lot for it, too much, but just had had enough of looking for one. i had to travel a fare way as well to pick it up (Cornwall to Andover) but... at least now i have one and love it.
all sorts, knives initially but started making J hooks, brooch's, pokers... just beginning so anything simple to start
It's very much each to his own, there's no real right / wrong way of doing it to a certain extent. As long as the anvil is clamped down tight to what ever stand it's on the ring will be reduced.
What I read years ago is that the anvil is essentially a bell that rings at a certain frequency, clamping it down tight stops it from vibrating at that frequency thus reduces the noise. In theory a steel stand rings at a different frequency, so when struck the two sort of cancel each other out. Adding chains works in the same sort of way. You can add caulk or silicone sealant as well.
You can also put a strong magnet under the horn or heel which helps to reduce the ring.
Either way hearing protection is an absolute must.
As a side note some hammers I have will ring when struck too.
All the best
Andy
Master t
As with many things if you master the basics the more complicated things become a lot easier. Things like J hooks are a good place to start.
As with many things if you master the basics the more complicated things become a lot easier. Things like J hooks are a good place to start.
I'd like to buy enough fuel to beat on some different steels (files, leaf spring, etc.) just for the experience.
I already know that my striking accuracy is really embarrassing.
So far, I've avoided that out of worry that I might really get interested.
I already know that my striking accuracy is really embarrassing.
So far, I've avoided that out of worry that I might really get interested.
Don't kick yourself about the price I have seen utter trash going for around £300, mine was £160 but an un-know gamble, and I have spent £30 on gas and wire for wielding and a fair bit of time chasing cracks in the front feet, yours has a sound body and the face and horn look dam fine!
Ho if any of you are looking there is a anvil much like mine at Glastonbury rec yard, its rusty and a gamble on condition, but I could get it cheap-ish!
when i picked it up i started to haggle over the price but he wouldnt budge. i thought to myself its a good anvil, its in nice condition, iv driven hundreds of miles so just buy the bloomin thing and be done with it. i may find another tomorrow cheaper just down the road or it could be another 12 months... never?
what i dont want to do is knock the railtrack anvil, its served me well over the last year or so and have made all sorts of small items on it including knives. iv not had to worry about abusing it.
Reading this thread and Everything Mac’s guide thread, I now realise how lucky I was to find my anvil while cleaning out a load of junk in my barn last year. I believe mine is a John Brooks 100lbs or 1cwt cast steel one.
Apart from the rust, it seems in decent condition and this thread has shamed me into moving it up my roundtuit list of projects and to get it cleaned up, mounted on something other than a concrete block (I have a nice piece of hardwood set aside) and use it for its intended purpose.
I assume that a wire brush or drill attachment and coating it with oil will help preserve it - I did see ATF recommended somewhere, any other suggestions?
Apart from the rust, it seems in decent condition and this thread has shamed me into moving it up my roundtuit list of projects and to get it cleaned up, mounted on something other than a concrete block (I have a nice piece of hardwood set aside) and use it for its intended purpose.
I assume that a wire brush or drill attachment and coating it with oil will help preserve it - I did see ATF recommended somewhere, any other suggestions?
Could you give me an idea what to look for. I know of a fellow at a scrap yard with 4 on his roof
The Anvils a Beginners Buyers Guide posted by Everything Mac might be worth a look!
https://bushcraftuk.com/community/i...-a-beginner-buyers-guide.149373/#post-1858762
Best condition, biggest weight, go with a ruler and hammer see what is true, hit everything! micro cracks your unlikely to find till clean up.
I have see guy's get by with just big hammer heads set in wood, so I don't knock a good bit of "get the hell on with what you got!" I did ok with just a sandwich of welded plates so the little chubby will be a dream to use!
Have a read through that other thread I posted. I'm working on adding pics at the minute.
Most of it is common sense. If it's clearly badly damaged then walk away.
Bring cash with you. Money talks and all that.
If they are much of a muchness then generally speaking bigger is better - to a point. There's no point buying an anvil you can't shift by yourself unless you're lucky enough to have plenty of space.
Anything up to about 2cwt is more than enough anvil for most people.
All the best
Andy
I don't think they (busoiness in scrap) will haggle that much as they have a variety of stuff that they could not bare to destroy for scrap out of sheer novelty, bits of brass etc mangles. I'm sure they won't mind them going back into service for a reasonable price. I've read the thread thanks, I think I get the idea without pictures.
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