Another Ventile smock...

[Sooty22]

Getting good at this... A client from my dayjob asked where I got my smock from, so I swiftly offered to make him one, and that was my first 'order'; never miss an opportunity

Same as mine but in a smaller size, with full zip and a storm flap, with double layers at the shoulders and lower front torso. I also lowered the lower pockets further so he can wear it with a rucksack without clashes between the belt and the pockets.

Ventile L24 in Antique Bronze. It would probably look better in sand yellow, but I couldn't find it in the UK. I only had my size pattern here, so I altered it on the fabric. Chuffed with how it turned out!

Next up, I will make me one in olive green, but a larger size as the one I have now is for limited layers underneath and I look like an overfilled sausage if layering for winter.

I really hope I will inspire folk to make their own clothes, it really is amazingly fulfilling and it only takes a little practice and an old sewing machine from ebay!

 

[Chris]

Impressive, looks great.

 

[HorseGuy]

Looks neat. You're very talented.

 

[Billy-o]

Excellent!

 

[Sooty22]

I just realised the storm flap looks odd, as it was an afterthought and is not central. I started making an inner flap, then thought "Why not stick it on the outside, with buttons as a storm flap?"
Live and learn...

 

[CLEM]

Looks good that, well done.

 

[Mesquite]

That's an impressive job, well done

 

[Sooty22]

Thanks folks! You should see the one I made just before that... Same pattern, my size, copying the 1963 patter smock in 70's DPM which I scored on ebay, it really was coming out gorgeous, and I managed to misalign the two sides on the zip by almost an inch... By the time I noticed, I had done the hem and that zip had been triple stitched Live and learn... More attention next time.

 

[John Fenna]

Easy done! Luckily I have caught mine before multiple stitching has been done... aligning over the zip can be a nightmare!

 

[Sooty22]

Easy done! Luckily I have caught mine before multiple stitching has been done... aligning over the zip can be a nightmare!

I was stuck inside with all the rain today (far far North), and fixed it! I ripped the zipper, ripped the hem, and all it needed was a half inch shift and it looks spot on!

 

[Sooty22]

It arrived with the client and it is well-liked, even with the stormflap looking offset. Now to see how it will perform at scout camp later in the week!

'Antique Bronze' looks spot-on afterall.

 

[Aristotle]

I'm impressed by your consistently neat stitching.

 

[Sooty22]

I'm impressed by your consistently neat stitching.

It got better over time. I found that much of it is down to the right foot pressure for the fabric, keeping the feed dogs and the bobbin area clean, slowing right down, keeping a steady speed and 'helping' the fabric move when approaching tricky spots so it doesn't stop and bunch up. And of course the right settings.
I am very lucky as both my wife and the mother-in-law are pretty good at sewing and were there to answer all my questions when it all kicked off. Around a year ago actually! I will need to find my pics from my first session with a sewing machine.

 

[Foogs]

That's some amazing work, and very inspiring! Love the 'back of a fag packet' blueprint.

Can I ask a few questions, as a novice sewist?

Where do you source your fabric e.g. Ventile and brass zips?

With that style of zipper (ie close-end), do you buy it in a specific length to fit the piece, or can you order it over-long and then cut it to fit the jacket?

How did you create the original pattern? Did you dismantle a smock to begin with?

What thread do you use?

Thanks and keep it up!

 

[Sooty22]

That's some amazing work, and very inspiring! Love the 'back of a fag packet' blueprint.

Can I ask a few questions, as a novice sewist?

Where do you source your fabric e.g. Ventile and brass zips?

With that style of zipper (ie close-end), do you buy it in a specific length to fit the piece, or can you order it over-long and then cut it to fit the jacket?

How did you create the original pattern? Did you dismantle a smock to begin with?

What thread do you use?

Thanks and keep it up!

Sure!
For the Ventile, try Profabrics. They only have L24 and some ecofriendly recycled versions, but they stock it consistently and are a great UK source.
Try extremtextil.de/en if you want more grades.
For brass zips, look up brass YKK #5. I can't remember the exact shop, as I got some from several shops; they often have deals on older stuff, and I snap them when I find them.
For cheap fabrics to practice on, try poundfabrics or eufabrics, they do cheap cotton twills that you can practice on before ventile. Speaking of which, you can make a pattern by measuring an old garment, ripping one to its components and tracing it, or by refering to photos and modifying a basic form from scratch until it suits you; then make a practice one on cheap fabric with very rough stitching to confirm the fit/looks are good for you, adjust and finally firm up your pattern and make the real deal.
Zipper-wise, you can make any length you want. You buy bottom and top stops, cut to length and put it on your garment. You can usually just reuse the top stops that came with it anyway, just remove them carefully and press them back in. When you cut the zipper, mark where you want the new end of the teeth, cut it 1" overlength and remove those end teeth by snapping them off carefully with a suitable pair of pliers, tidy up the end with a lighter so it won't fray, and Bob's your uncle!

 

[Sooty22]

That's some amazing work, and very inspiring! Love the 'back of a fag packet' blueprint.

Can I ask a few questions, as a novice sewist?

Where do you source your fabric e.g. Ventile and brass zips?

With that style of zipper (ie close-end), do you buy it in a specific length to fit the piece, or can you order it over-long and then cut it to fit the jacket?

How did you create the original pattern? Did you dismantle a smock to begin with?

What thread do you use?

Thanks and keep it up!

Some zips; https://www.williamgee.co.uk/product-category/zips/metal-zips/

 

[Sooty22]

What thread do you use?

You can get these in 5km spools. Great for practicing, and works out way way cheaper than gutterman's little spools of sew-all.

You want an older school sewing machine, off ebay for 50-100 quid, I scored a couple of Janome New Home M360 from the 90s for sweeties, and they both were like new. Very solid, highly recommend those if you can find one.



Btw, some advice on thread for Ventile and the fabric in general. Folk say Ventile requires cotton or polycotton thread for swelling and waterproofing the seams, but I think that is nonsense; single layer ventile is most definitely NOT a waterproof layer, and 'waterproofing' the seams is like soiling your pants and changing your shirt.

In two layers, it doesn't matter much if the seams leak very slightly as long as they don't line up between layers. And it still is not 'waterproof'; two layers just buy you more time before you are again with a soaked, heavy, stiff jacket that will take a lot longer to dry than twice what a single layer would. So, I now stick with two smocks in single layer, which I can use as I need, and still treat the setup as a breathable windproof that will keep me dry for a bit in a pinch.

Always carrying a light 'proper' waterproof outer along. Relying on Ventile for waterproofing longer term in Scotland is asking for hypothermia

 

[Foogs]

Phenomenal, thank you.

I'm sorted on the sewing machine front (have a vintage Necchi), and pattern-wise, I'm looking at some smock patterns to buy cheap online, as well as considering dismantling an old '95 pattern smock I have lying unsused.

Thanks again for the pointers!