Annealing a bushcraft knife?

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billycan

Forager
Jan 21, 2006
240
1
Sussex
I've been doing a lot of reading and experimentation with knife making for several years now, i recently read in one book that the spine of the blade and handle should be annealed. For a bushcraft knife i'm assuming you want the spine or back of the knife to remain hard for your fire steel and batoning etc? but what about the handle?

thanks

billycan
 

Snufkin

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Oct 13, 2004
2,097
138
53
Norfolk
Ideally you want the handle to remain softer so it can absorb more shock. And in a worse case senario, bend rather than snap.
Also a soft spine is preferable as it strengthens the more brittle edge. You don't need a hard spine for batoning as you should be using a wooden baton, and a softer spine again absorbs more shock without the risk of snapping.
But a softer spine is not so good for use with a firesteel. I don't see this as a problem as it's not my firestarter of preferance.
 

C_Claycomb

Moderator staff
Mod
Oct 6, 2003
7,391
2,407
Bedfordshire
....recently read in one book that the spine of the blade and handle should be annealed.
I think you need to do some more reading. What book were you looking in?

The issue is that there is softer and there is soft ;)

Softer than the cutting edge is alright. Soft as in annealled is not so good (on the spine), but not disasterous either.

Taking O-1 (ground flat stock) as an example, I believe, it is very poor practice to leave the spine and tang in the condition the steel leaves the factory. There are some makers who use a torch to harden just the cutting edge, O-1 shows a change, when etched, between any part that has reached critical temperature, vs areas that are still in a spheroidized condition. Such knives can be very tough, they will bend before breaking, but they can't hope to be as strong as a blade that has been fully hardened and then differentially tempered, or cycled then edge quenched. The annealled areas will have little strength.

Even a lamellar anneal will be stronger than spheroidized.

Having said that, the affor mentioned makers test and use their knives and find them satisfactory for use. Most people aren't going to use a knife hard enough to notice the difference in strength anyway.

In any knife the handle area is significantly reinforced by the handle material. Provided that the tang has been constructed properly there should be no reason for it to break even if it has been hardened to the same level as the cutting edge. Or bend if it has been left dead soft. The main danger area is where the blade exits the handle and anywhere that you have sudden changes of section, either in thickness or depth.

Wow, what a lot of hot air I have! :p

In the end, all that matters is that the knife does what YOU want it to do, or what your customer wants it to do. There are many ways of doing things. Other makers will have prefered methods which may have as much to do with the tools they have, or the speed they have to make knives, or the type of use their knives normally see. These things will not necessarily transfer to your own making. If YOU want to use the spine on a firesteel, harden away and know you are in good company with Alan Wood, Roger Harrington, and many production companies. If you think you want a tougher blade, go with an edge quench/spine draw, or torch hardening. You will then be in company with such people as Wayne Goddard, Ed Fowler, Ed Caffery, and Mick Wardell.
:lmao: :lmao:
 

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