Advice on asbestos insulating board

Paul_B

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 14, 2008
6,411
1,698
Cumbria
I think your builder, gonzo, didn't want to handle asbestos so conned you into dealing with the risk.

No expert but the issue is asbestos has such fine fibres they can get deep into the lungs where they're most vulnerable to damage resulting in a form of cancer. It gets airborne easily. You can't smell or taste it. You will not feel a gritty texture if it gets into your mouth like most other fibres. It's a microfibre that you can not detect in the air without the equipment needed.

Even if you fully protect yourself with shop bought ppe you can't be sure you're being safe. For example your suit, is it suitable? It needs to be a full barrier which the fibre cannot pass through. That's usually easy to sort, get a decent plastic overall with a good zip and baffle behind put it on and tape around your gloves. Take it off at any point you bag it and get a new one when starting. Mask? You would be wise to get a face fitting from a specialist plus trained in putting it on. I could go on but you get the idea.

There's many people on here who have a very self sufficient attitude, which is to be commended. But with the risk of asbestos I think things change IMHO. Get a professional. It's seriously not worth it IMHO.
 
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Fadcode

Full Member
Feb 13, 2016
2,857
895
Cornwall
If you look at the HSE site, it will actually guide you through the removal of asbestos, although it does not advise removing soffits yourself, so do have a look, it gives guidance on identifying which type you have, and whether it is safe to remove, certain dangerous elements of AIB were banned ,Amosite was banned in 1985, and Chrysotile was banned in 1999, so the age of your house may well determine which type you have, if your concern is just to get more ventilation into loft space, then leave the asbestos alone, you could always add a Velux window to your roof, or put in an extractor fan similar to one in a bathroom, they are quite cheap to install and replace.
You do mention the problem with damp in the winter, there is a big difference between damp and condensation, if you live in a old house built before 1947, you probably donr have a damp course fitted, and are unlikely to have cavity walls, and these can lead to the ingress of damp, so maybe getting someone in to determine what is actually wrong, should be your first step.otherwise you may end up like this

.

Imagine the cost of that....
 
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Turnip

Full Member
Sep 28, 2010
519
56
Radnorshire
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/a1.pdf
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/em1.pdf
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/a1.pdf
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/em8.pdf

Just putting these here in case they are of use to anyone in the future.
Using the info in these I think I'll wait for a rainy day, get suited up appropriately then wet the area, see if I can remove the vent I put in as a bung, if I can without to much disturbance I will (If not I wont) then seal the edge with either pva or similar and then be done with it.
I'll have to find another option for the ventilation.
 
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gonzo_the_great

Forager
Nov 17, 2014
210
71
Poole, Dorset. UK
Paul_B
It was my suggestion. The builder had already done the same job to the other two ajoining houses in the terrace.

The roof tiles were very smooth and hard finish. And pretty much damp during the whole process. Moss on top, and slime on the underside.
So I wasn't woried about doing the work, in my particular case.
If there was any risk, it was to the roofers removing them as some did break in the process.
I did floor out the loft space and plastic sheet it all before they started the job. And that got wrapped up and binned afterwards.

I have removed the old corrugated asbestos roof on the garage many years ago. That was pretty much done in the same way.
The sheets came off whole, so were no extra risk than with them sat on the frames. As they are exposed on all sides when in service anyway.
Back then, the council tip didn't even require you to bag it. Just pitch it over into the special skip.

Personally, I don't worry too much about the concrete loaded sheeting, if it is in good condition and you are not damaging it in any way.
The fibreous stuff, in pipe lagging and insulation is a different matter.
 

Paul_B

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 14, 2008
6,411
1,698
Cumbria
Fair enough. It was a bit of a facetious attempt at humour.

The issue I have is the potential for harm. When encapsulated the advice is often to leave it and just keep it encapsulated.

For example asbestos concrete panelled garages. If you keep the panels well painted it's likely to be safer than removing it. A relative had one and we painted it every few years. Safe enough to keep using. It's sold now and there was a discount on the price to account for its removal.

Personally, I would not do anything with asbestos myself. Even if it's well encapsulated. It's personal risk and choice. If you have the confidence of doing it safely then good luck to you. Read up on it and preferably take advice from experts where you can get it. Above all do it with safety in mind.
 

gonzo_the_great

Forager
Nov 17, 2014
210
71
Poole, Dorset. UK
All understood.
And the usual disclaimers to anyone else doing this!

Was recently talking about disposal, with a friend. Who had just found a few sheets stashed behind his shed (at his newly brought house). And also half a dozen more that had been buried in a shallow grave.
Advised him to bag them up (council require them to be double bagged now.)
Turns out the council tip now charge £20 a sheet or bag. But still cheaper than getting someone to take them away for £200 a sheet he was quoted.

(They also charge £20 a sheet to dump plaster board. Which is more than it costs to buy!)
 

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