Advice on anvils

[tombear]

One of my second hand tool guys has got 8 anvils for me to take a pick from when we can get over to his place. Two of them ( from the poor quality phone pic he had ) look just the right size for me and a couple more i could live with.

Since most of my knowledge of anvils comes via Road Runner and Wiley Coyote can anyone give us some advice on what to look for and which makers were good and which to avoid. please. I'll be ok assessing basic condition but after that I'll be at a loss. Since its the sort of thing I hope to buy only once I don't want to get it wrong.

Hes pretty sure he'll have some pipe suitable to finish off the hearth ill be using as well. I'm also hoping he'll have some hardies to go with.

Thanks!

Tom

 

[Dave Budd]

get the biggest that is reasonable condition. It doesn't have to have a bick or hardy, but if it does then it increases the utility of the tool (most of my work is done without either though). The main things to look for are:

- not cast iron (cast steel is fine and the modern way, but small cast iron ones are useless)
- flat on the top. the less saddled the top is the better
- fewest chipped edges/corners. some can be lived wth and other welded up, but less damage the better
- no cracks. if there is a crack or the top is lifting (on a welded on one) then avoid it


post pics if you like, we can always help further from there

 

[tombear]

Cheers Dave !
That's the sort of thing. I'll take a straight edge with me to check the top.

Unfortunately I'm rather restricted in my choice, partly by expense but mainly because I won't be able to leave it where I intend to use it ( far end of the top garden) and access is up some narrow steps.

oddly enough there's some evidence that forging was once done up there, there's some remains of a brick structure and that's where we dug up the 13 lb sledge head with the deep indentations from being hit on something like a all metal chisel and a the whatchamacallit cutting head (normally on a long wire handle that you whack with the sledge). Once the stones are all cleared out of the way we will do a proper sweep with the metal detector, see if anything else was abandoned up there.

ATB

Tom

 

[tombear]

Still no play date to go view as the wife ( the family driver and paymaster ) is currently fetching some wood from a mates garage so today is a non runner . They are thick boards from a old inspection trench ( or whatever it is called, for looking underneath the cars ) . If they are too oil soaked or otherwise duff they will go to the scouts as firewood but if they can be planed clean ( I've not got a thicknesser but do have a good electric plane for removing lots of wood quick) or turned to remove the outer part then they will be keepers. By the sound of it they are very thick hardwood boards. We shall see.

Anyroad, I'm thinking that even if stained ( I can always stain them more on purpose) ill be able to make some bellows .


I've been looking at this site

http://www.manaraefan.co.uk/index_files/Page408.htm

and think I can do that. A while back we were given some big pieces of upholstery leather ex one of the wife's mates who did a handbag making course back in the 80s. It's not veg tan but since this won't be one of my reconstructions that doesn't signify.


Any thought on the site? Ill be rigging a electric blower as well for when I'm on my own but we rather fancy going old school as well.

ATB

Tom

 

[arian]

Well...

Give them all a "ring test" with a hammer.

1) Subject to other points, get the biggest you can manage.

2) Flattest top.

3) Best edges.

4) Horns are useful.

5) Hardie holes are useful.

 

[tombear]

Cheers!

saddly the wood turned out to be too far gone with cracks to be be if any use. One dry it will be chopped up for the scouts fire wood store.

ATB

Tom

 

[Everything Mac]

http://www.britishblades.com/forums...Anvil-advice&p=2389713&viewfull=1#post2389713

Some time has passed since I wrote out that post. Anvil prices are in a low just now. Some months ago the price was high so it is very much a buyers market just now. If he is asking for silly money say over £250 - tell him where to go. Under £200 is a good price at the minute.

Common sense is key - smooth, flat and chip free is the best. Chips are no big problem if the main part of the face is smooth and flat. - Take a steel rule as well as a hammer or ball bearing. You can test the face for hardness if you strike a corner or part you won't use. If it easily dents the face is likely quite soft. This has pros and cons but if a harder face can be had that may be the way to go.

(as a side note I've worked on very hard and vert soft anvils - both work absolutely fine)

Pass on anything that has a face very heavily U shaped (this is called "sway" - some like it to aid straightening. I don't)

If you want mate I cam PM you my number and you can send me a picture/ give me a call for advice should you need it.


As for the bellows - I wouldn't bother unless you are doing a period re-enactment. Quite a romantic idea, and fine for a day or two, indeed I've done it and learned on a forge that used a bellows. Get yourself a hair drier, bouncy castle blower or a hand cranked forge blower.
That said if you plan to use coal or coke, you'll need the constant air flow.

Let me know if you need any further advice.
All the best
Andy

 

[tombear]

Cheers, PM sent!

atb

Tom

 

[dewi]

I've been looking for an anvil since... well... seeing this post. Bout time I made good on my promises to myself to actually make stuff instead of sat at a computer pushing pixels.

Keep us updated Tombear, be good to see what you get

 

[tombear]

Will do. Once I've had my pick ill be happy to put folk in touch with the guy, I think he has 8 anvils at the mo'. His prices for other tools has always been very reasonable, a good half of the tools on my Carboot thread have come from him.

ATB

Tom

 

[dewi]

Good o... I'm a few junctions down the M6 from you (21 ish)... but it would be great to pick up an anvil so early on. Been concentrating on buying files, some steel to practise with and some fancy bits and pieces. Have a forge setup and a couple of kilns... but being a hobby thing, I'm getting round to everything in good time

 

[tombear]

At very short notice I was whisked off to Bury and had a look at what he had, one had already gone off as scrap as too far gone ( pitted, cracked etc) and all but one was way too big for me, I couldn't even move them. The one candidate left is unfortunately the cast iron sort with the steel top welded onto, there's a big chip out of one corner but the straight edge I took showed the top was true under the paint and rust and the small hammer I took with me bounced nicely. The back end rang really well, the front less so but wasn't dull, just not as high pitched. Because he has others to sell, on eBay I'm affraid, he wasn't interested in referrals which is fair enough, he swore me to secrecy about the price which was definitely mates rates. Put it this way the lads will only have to go without two or three takeaways to cover it.

He says it weighs 51kg which I believe is a hundred wight? The only visible markings is what looks like a 1 cast in. It does need some work and if I get into this malarkey ill no doubt upgrade. ,Ill need to build some sort of solid stretcher so two can carry it more easily ( I am such a weakling these days! ) to get it to where I want to use it, now to find a great big log to dig in a couple of feet to bring it up to the right hieght.

1 lb Hammer for scale

i've started to get the rust off and sharpen up the edges with the good old power file and will take a sander to get the top cleared of paint.

hes going to look for hardies for me, they occasionally turn up.

It would have been nice to got a perfect one for free but realistically it' will do for me and if I turn out to be hopeless I will be able to shift it on without loss, can't ask for more!

ATB

Tom

 

[richardhomer]

Looks Just the Job.
Good luck with cleaning it up.

 

[Dave Budd]

that looks like a nice little anvil and in good condition too! The 1 will refer to the weight in hundredweights, as you have guessed. It isn't likely cast iron though; most modern anvils (ie not the machine mart variety) are cast steel with solid cast faces but older ones were forged iron bodies with welded faces. The welded faces are teh ones that seperate.

 

[dewi]

Nice anvil! Bet you are well chuffed!!

I shall scour ebay for when they pop up... no mad rush... but if the right one appears...

 

[grey-array]

Looking Good tombear Do show us the end result when you get her all done up.
Can't wait to see it on a log next to you new home made forge ^^
boy I need to get myself a place to get my game on XD *tingling sensation starts*

Yours sincerely
Ruud

 

[Everything Mac]

Sorry to the late reply bud. Looks like a good one though. Certainly not cast iron, it will be a wrought iron body with a welded steel face on it. Perfect little anvil. 1, is indeed the weight in hundredweight. 112lbs or more or less 51kg.
I'd stick it up on the bathroom scale to see what it actually weighs though.

You'll need to build a stand for it. High enough that the face of the anvil touches your knuckles if you were to stand upright with a loosely clenched fist. I find that a little too low for my liking so have my anvil about an inch higher which is just fine for me.

I see you're in Rossendale. There's a friend of mine who collects anvils and tools living there. He has an awful lot of tools that he would,be quite happy to sell to you. I'll put you in touch later.

Tom and Dewi are both not too far from me, I'd be happy to arrange a forge in day to get you started.

Andy

 

[tombear]

First off since herselfs bottom lip was well out at my rejection of the inspection pit cover planks she dragged home from Stockport I had another look at them this morning as they will be going off to scouts to be burned tonight. The manky bits could be worked around so I took the power saw to them and cut out the cracks. We then hauled them up to the shed and Jnr and I started to put them through the band saw until I made the stupid mistake of letting a end fall when trimming the ends with the band saw so I snapped the blade!

The only spare is the thin one, for cutting tight corners. So that's me stuffed until I can order another. I will also get the widest one they do that will fit the machine for making long straight cuts like I'm doing, well was, now.

Trimmed I'm getting 45 inch lengths 3 inch thick which if I do a seat overhanging the end will be long enough to make the English style shave horse as in Ray Tabors book "Green Woodworking Pattern Book" which we got out of the library yesterday. A really good read as it happens, full of interesting ideas. The pattern calls for 48 by 9 by 3 inch so ill need to bolt, glue and or peg together 3 or 4 strips together. Then ill skim. 1/16th or so off he sides and top until the dirts gone. I've no idea what the wood is, some bits look like a open grained pine but the majority is quite dense and heavy. Anyone have a clue?

Anyway it's all on hold until I can get a new blade.

To return to the anvil, aye I'm rather chuffed with it. I'm happy it's not a cast job, the idea of it being hammered out is rather appealing for some reason. I'll get on with cleaning it up when my arms don't feel like they are coming off. There's should be enough wood to make a stretcher for carrying it.

Aye, the Rawtenstal end of the valley, there's certainly som bits I still need to get, cheers! Mind ill have to restrain myself for a bit, the anvil has eaten into the good will at the first bank of wife. Once I've shifted more of the deactivated guns and militaria ill be able to indulge myself.

Cheers for the advice on stands. For a temporary measure I was thinking of burying a length of heavily treated wood like a section of telegraph pole or sleeper. If I take to it ill lay some foundations and build a base for a hearth and a suitable distance away one for the anvil and at a later date build a open sided shed around it with 6 inch of sand above the foundations, a charcoal store and bench to fit a leg vice to.

That's very kind of you Andy, thanks!

ATB

Tom

 

[Everything Mac]

A telegraph pole would certainly work. Just be sure that the diameter of the pole is big enough to take at least the vast majority of the anvil's footprint. If not a telegraph pole, a railway sleeper cut in half and doubled up would do it.

The forum: Iforgeiron.com is a great place full of information that will be useful to you. Basically a blacksmithing version of this very site.

All the best
Andy

 

[tombear]

Cheers! Ill measure up the foot print and stick a note in my wallet, better measure the hardie hole as well incase there's more than one size.

ill have a mooch about that sorted when I settle down.

Herself ordered me another 9 mm and a 12mm blade from TuffSaws yesterday so I should get it Monday, Saturday if I'm lucky. They were pretty quick last time. Unfortunately the blade that broke kinked inside the machine so it's not worth keeping for repairs. Il'l have to angle grind it into lengths to use in hacksaws. No point in wasting it.

i stumbled down to the hardware shop and blew a tenner on the bolts and bits I need to make the shave horse. I can't complain the wood was free, even if the stuff has to be processed some before its usable. Ill finally have a reason to use the bl@@dy great scotch eye augers I've been hoarding!

4 half inch ten inch coach bolts to hold the main board together, a six incher to hold the pivot board on and a yard of 10 mm to cut down to. 13 inches for the pivot.

Ill have to start a separate thread on the shave horse build.

atb

tom