A couple of newbie leather working questions

[Toadflax]

I've trawled the forums but haven't found the answers yet...

I'm wanting to make a few belts as a starting point in leatherwork (just ordinary trouser belts) and have already made one plain one using a leather strap from Le Prevo (which I'm wearing now), and am just about to start a second one but have a few questions.

I know there's not going to be a definitive answer for most of these questions, but some thoughts would be useful.

1. To start with I bought two dyed straps (Dyed-Thru veg-tan), one black and one brown, and wondered if it is worthwhile buying plain straps and dyeing them, or just carrying on with pre-dyed straps.
2. This weight of leather seems good for a man's trouser belt, but I wondered whether the split cowhide (a little thinner and a bigger range of colours) would be suitable for lighter weight belts (e.g. ladies' belts).
3. If you do dye leather, do you need the special edge dye, or can you use the dye that you use for the face of the leather. For the pre-dyed straps, I've finished off by burnishing with a weak PVA solution.
4. If you are doing more than a few belts, is it worthwhile getting a strap cutter and a piece of hide (given that you'd have to dye the straps), or are you really better off buying pre-cut straps. And which piece of hide would give you sufficient belt lengths?
5. I was going to get one of the carving tool sets from Le Prevo. Can you tool dyed leather or should you tool it before dyeing? Or should you in fact tool it after dyeing.
6. If you dye the main face of the leather, do you need to burnish it, or is this normally only done for undyed leather?

Many thanks


Geoff

 

[Barn Owl]

Geoff,

I dye my own (only done a few).
I use med brown dye but have managed to make it tan by diluting with water.

Get the edge stuff,don't put dye on them or the reverse,it rubs off onto clothing.
You could if your prepared to burnish the edge though.

That's about all I can advise,I'm not a maker.

Hope it helps,
Tom.

 

[Toadflax]

Regarding the edge dye, I was planning on burnishing the edges, so is it OK to use standard dye for the edges? The reason I ask is that Le Prevo sell half a dozen colours of leather dye, but only two colours of edge dye. Though from what Barn Owl has aid, it sounds like you can get quite a variation in colour from a single dye by diluting it.

Alternatively (not having the experience to know this) do you even need to dye the edges of a leather belt, given that the burnishing darkens the edge in any case?



Geoff

 

[singteck]

To start with I bought two dyed straps (Dyed-Thru veg-tan), one black and one brown, and wondered if it is worthwhile buying plain straps and dyeing them, or just carrying on with pre-dyed straps.

Dyeing your own leather gives you more freedom. Might not work out cheaper but you can create belts with different colour or shades that is not available ready dyed.

This weight of leather seems good for a man's trouser belt, but I wondered whether the split cowhide (a little thinner and a bigger range of colours) would be suitable for lighter weight belts (e.g. ladies' belts).

Yes.

If you do dye leather, do you need the special edge dye, or can you use the dye that you use for the face of the leather. For the pre-dyed straps, I've finished off by burnishing with a weak PVA solution.

Edge dye is not really a dye but a coloured coating for the edge. You can use dye on the edge and burnish or use edge coat, or both.

PVA is not the best choice for edge. Gum tragacanth is prefered but sand paper with water works just as well. Lots of elbow grease is what you need or chuck an edge polisher onto a drill press and burnish away. Edge kote (not edge dye) makes preparing the edge easier. Just brush on and no need to burnish. Great for mass production.

If you are doing more than a few belts, is it worthwhile getting a strap cutter and a piece of hide (given that you'd have to dye the straps), or are you really better off buying pre-cut straps. And which piece of hide would give you sufficient belt lengths?

Strap cutter is cheap and last a lifetime. With a strap cutter, you have less waste because you can cut any width you want. If you want to produce lots of belt of the same width then the precut is faster for you, but more expensive. Buy a whole side (half the leather cut from head to tail) to get the length you need.

I was going to get one of the carving tool sets from Le Prevo. Can you tool dyed leather or should you tool it before dyeing? Or should you in fact tool it after dyeing.

Usually you tool and then dye. This is because you might want to dye them in different colours. You can dye and tool but .........................

If you dye the main face of the leather, do you need to burnish it, or is this normally only done for undyed leather?

You can burnish dyed or undyed leather. Burnishing flatten the surface and make it smooth and shiny. Sometimes you burnish to fix the dye so that they don't bleed or rub off.

 

[Toadflax]

Many thanks, singteck, for that comprehensive response. Most useful.


Geoff

 

[Buckshot]

I've got some Gum tragacanth if you want some geoff, I've got more than I'll ever use.
I'll try and remember it tomorrow - bring a jam jar or somthing similar in size (tupperwear)

Cheers

Mark

 

[Toadflax]

Thank you kindly, Mark. You'd better make me do all the work tomorrow in return!


Geoff

 

[John Fenna]

For that real "I did it all" feeling I make my own stain with wire wool in vinegar then burnish the edges and polish with beeswax/veg oil home made polish mix.
I must start growing Flax for making my own linen thread...or get some sinews...
I have already started carving Antler buckles!

 

[Toadflax]

For that real "I did it all" feeling I make my own stain with wire wool in vinegar then burnish the edges and polish with beeswax/veg oil home made polish mix.
I must start growing Flax for making my own linen thread...or get some sinews...
I have already started carving Antler buckles!

OK - you're well ahead of me! But are you tanning your own leather yet? Knowing you, the answer is probably yes! I did buckskin last year and have another hide in the freezer but I'm not sure I can be bothered with the effort. I'm tempted to try Toddy's method of washing the hide in the washing machine and lathering it with lots of hand cream.

BTW, my son didn't want the buff I got off you at the moot, so I've got both of them now. My wife thinks they look OK when worn as a cravat, but silly as a beanie!


Geoff

 

[Buckshot]

Thank you kindly, Mark. You'd better make me do all the work tomorrow in return!


Geoff

Don't worry, you will be!

 

[John Fenna]

Toadflax -I have yet to tan any hides - due to not having a source of hides at present!
I am glad you are getting good use out of the Buffs....but I think of them as "practical" rather than "fashionable" - so I dont worry how I look!
Mind you nothing realy looks good on me anyway!

 

[Toadflax]

Thought I'd let you know about good service from Le Prevo.

As I'm thinking about buying a part hide after Christmas, I asked Le Prevo for a set of samples and got a nice little envelope through today full of hide clippings, all marked up with their part numbers and a handwritten note.


Geoff

 

[rancid badger]

Hey up Geoff,

I'm pretty biased to be absolutely honest, as I know the lads at LePrevo, but I really wouldn't use anyone else for my supplies.
It's a proper, old fashioned 'Emporium', stacked from floor to ceiling with all sorts of 'stuff':

The fact that it's only a 15 minute drive away helps too mind

I've used the dyed through leather before and its pretty good for plain, formal, 'keep ya troozahs up' type belts but the variety of shading ( sometimes great sometimes not!) you can achieve with dying plain veg tan makes the latter, my normal choice.

You can actually use a black permanent marker on the edges, then burnish.(try on scrap bit)
The edge coat stuff is good but I've found that it sometimes cracks if you don't get the initial burnish right.

you could do a lot worse than order up one of Al Stohlmans books:
The Art of Hand Sewing Leather I can't remember if its £10 or £14 but its worth every penny when your first starting out and even now, a few years down the line, I still refer back on occasion.

Reminds me; I need to pop in to the shop, for some bits and bobs before Christmas

best wishes
Steve