Smock, Windproof, 1942 Pattern (the original 'SAS smock'), but made in Ventile in 2026!

  • BushMoot: Come along to the amazing Summer Moot 31st July - 5th August (extended Moot : 27th July - 8th August), a festival of bushcrafting and camping in a beautiful woodland PLEASE CLICK HERE for more information.
Ventile....there's a good reason to use tape instead of cord, it doesn't rub the channel into a line of holes where it gathers.

Double layers...they're very good on hood, shoulders and arms if you're working in them the inner layer still breathes while the outer one gets saturated and soaks itself tight. You have to use matching thread so that it swells to fill the stitch holes.
Double ventile is a pain in the backside to dry though.
 
Very nice work and good design modifications, ive a repro WW2 SAS smock in cotton and it’s a nice smock. Ive often thought of modifying it meself, full length pit zips would be one for sure.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Toddy
Inspired by this, and having thought that I really didn't need another jacket, I looked at the Helikon-Tex smocks and found that I could get a brown one on sale very cheap, £50-odd.

....I then thought that I would enjoy modifying an army one more than buying a good one off the shelf.

I looked at used desert DPM smocks and found a former RAF one for less than £16 posted.

I have removed the badges, added more cord locks, dyed it dark brown, reduced the volume & shortened the front (and re-inserted the wire) of the gigantic hood and ordered some zips for the pits.
 
Just finished this!

View attachment 104022View attachment 104023

It is spot-on per the original;

View attachment 104024

But with a couple of small deviations;

-I made it in Antique Brone Ventile L24
-it does not have any double layers anywhere (originals have them on the shoulders and lower abdomen panels), as I find Ventile loses a lot of breathability with two layers and this smock has no vents at all (I wanted the correct looks)
-I shifted the lower pockets up a touch. Some other originals also have them a bit higher, and that helps the pockets clear a modern rucksack's hip belt and ride above them.

The white cotton tape is probably a bit too much, considering swapping those to cotton cord and leather adjusters.

Other than that, really enjoyed making the pattern and putting it together! Next steps are to try to hand-paint a length of fabric in the original 'brush stroke' camo and make a camo version.

I even ordered printed labels that match the originals The printed ones that arrived are a bit shiny and white, so maybe soak them in tea and vinegar, then spray a matte acrylic varnish. Or just forget about it and let it get dirty

View attachment 104025
View attachment 104026
Very nice, quality workmanship
 
  • Like
Reactions: CLEM
Inspired by this, and having thought that I really didn't need another jacket, I looked at the Helikon-Tex smocks and found that I could get a brown one on sale very cheap, £50-odd.

....I then thought that I would enjoy modifying an army one more than buying a good one off the shelf.

I looked at used desert DPM smocks and found a former RAF one for less than £16 posted.

I have removed the badges, added more cord locks, dyed it dark brown, reduced the volume & shortened the front (and re-inserted the wire) of the gigantic hood and ordered some zips for the pits.
Any photos of your finished/re-finished smock???
 
Inspired by this, and having thought that I really didn't need another jacket, I looked at the Helikon-Tex smocks and found that I could get a brown one on sale very cheap, £50-odd.

....I then thought that I would enjoy modifying an army one more than buying a good one off the shelf.

I looked at used desert DPM smocks and found a former RAF one for less than £16 posted.

I have removed the badges, added more cord locks, dyed it dark brown, reduced the volume & shortened the front (and re-inserted the wire) of the gigantic hood and ordered some zips for the pits.
Fantastic! I have never tried dyeing fabric, and I want to attempt painting the 'brushstroke' camo the original smocks were made of in their camo version. I guess different from dyeing. Ever tried painting fabric with anything other than acrylics? Any ideas?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Aristotle and CLEM
I'm in awe of your sewing skills. I wondered about the draw-tape instead of cord.
Might have related to cost and availability but it might also be more comfortable and bunch up/cut into the skin less than cord. Pyjama trousers usually have tape not cord on the waistband possibly for that reason.
Don't think the tape will stay white for very long in use!. (either dyed or shoe-blacked by the squaddie)
Sooooo...I researched a bit the story with the 'sand coloured' smocks. There was never an official sand coloured version; they were all drab or camouflage. The 'sand' colour versions are the above, boiled for hours by the special forces folk operating in arid environments back in the day. They lost most of the dye, and the tape became that white colour.

On the subject of tape; I have now used the smock in anger in Sutherland. It is very easy to handle, much easier to 'feel' than cord. Presumably, the cord back in the day was also not that strong. And you are right, it would likely cut into skin if tight, over time, something which the tape is less likely to do.

I've been carrying materials and pouring concrete piers for a log cabin, in the most midge- and horsefly-infested place I've ever know. My verdict is single-layer ventile keeps the midges out, absolutely no chance it stops the cleggs! Got several bites through it, I could not believe it.

Also, Ventile sucks for breathability, especially if you sweat in it.

So, next experiment is making one of these in the 'proper' gabardine fabric, essentially a 100% accurate copy, but still single layer, which will be my very breathable, windproof and insect-proof smock. Then, if the conditions dictate, put the ventile layer on top.
All with a merino base layer, and wool for insulation.
 
Horse flies are evil things.

How does gabardine differ in function to the Ventile?
As far as I can tell from what I read (not first hand experience though, never used it, thus the 'experiment'), it is not swelling 'tight' to the point it becomes waterproof, and it is letting a bit more circulation of air. Losing waterproofing, but more breathable, and still windproof.
I was trying to find out what the originals were made of, but there is conflicting information. Some sources online seem to suggest Stotz Twill 230 (now 'Ventile Twill 230') is the closest, but that would basically make it Ventile, meaning it just stops breathing the second you sweat enough to saturate it -or when it rains.
Some other sources suggest a cotton gabardine fabric of around 230gsm, which is what I will try with.
Either way, I enjoy the whole sewing thing, and just laugh at how much money I spent over time to buy garments that fitted me poorly
 

BCUK Shop

We have a a number of knives, T-Shirts and other items for sale.

SHOP HERE