Recent content by davek

Thanks for the generous offer but I'm a machinist hoping to make some whiz bang aluminum scales. I've also been looking for CAD files of Green River blades or basically any knife related CAD files I can find. Here are some Green River blades I've "reverse engineered" and made slabs for...

Well, a very thin coat I think would make it last longer. You could follow it with some melted beeswax to stiffen it up. I just today softened a pouch sheath for a folder and that type may be better for it. I dunno, I can be a bit anal. Anyway, I've heard mineral spirits are poison to...

Well, a way to minimize absorption is to dampen the leather, then apply. This works well. It stops a lot from soaking in initially and you can coat the whole piece. As the leather dries what's left soaks in. My problem is that most pieces aren't just a flat surface and have hard to reach...

That's a great idea, but do you end up getting too much in the leather sometimes? I've read that just a very small amount is sometimes best, especially if you want the leather to stay stiff.

In industrial applications, yadda, yadda, you have what is called "zinc fever" from welding galvanized stuff, etc. I've gotten it, from melting "pot metal" (zinc, usually) from belt buckles and such thinking I could use it like pewter. You get no symptoms right away and then feel like you...

Anyone have a CAD file of the scales? (DXF, etc.)

This is an answer I have been looking for for some time. What would be a good "thinner" for neatsfoot oil? Something where you could paint the stuff on and the "thinner" would evaporate and leave a thin coat. Thin coats of neatsfoot are the best for many or most applications and I have...

Ya that :rolleyes: thanks. I got them at Smoky Mountain Knife Works (Tennessee, U.S.). Huge, fantastic knife store, the blades were 10$ each and I picked ones with straight lines to make them easy to "mass produce". The engraving will vary. Not in this for profit, will be gifts or sold...

Made some slabs for my Green River blades. They are machined hard anodized aluminum. They look great (bad pics), but might be cold and slick outdoors. I put a layer of epoxy between the slabs and the full tang in the hopes of preventing a reaction between the metals. Comments on whether that...

http://www.ragweedforge.com/HistoricalKnifeCatalog.html $8.50 for the cabbage knife, 6" long, great quality.

But will hold an edge well http://www.discountcutlery.net/en-us/dept_21423.html

a pair??? Clamp a scribe or something similarly small and pointy in a vise. Then, holding the can near one end (maybe with fingertips), tap the can sharply on the scribe near the other end. Drop the can in the trash, no big deal.

Better'n starting a new one to me. No use re-inventing the wheel.

I hate to add this with all this great stuff, but this one turned out kinda neat. Black anodized aluminum machined into slabs for my Green River blades and engraved with my initial. I think they'll make good paring knives. Cross dressed.... errr posted on British Blades. Hope I'm not...

I used to use a steel away from me till I learned this tip. Put your elbows in a position where you can't reach your fingers with the knife while steeling. Then while you are steeling - don't move your elbows. I've found that if I put a good edge on a good kitchen knife, don't put it in...