I've been using a home-made filing-jig for the last few years now, so i thought i would share my findings with anyone that may be interested. I have cut the bevels of over 20 different knives on it now so i thought it was high time i sang it's praises. Obviously they are slower and far more physically demanding than a belt linisher, but they do have several benefits being cheap,quiet and less messy as the filings are kept very localised (particularly handy for me as i only have the family kitchen to work in! ). With a bit of thought they can be surprisingly efficient and are capable of cutting just about any type of bevel and doing a quality job of it. In my view it is the perfect tool for anyone starting out as a hobbyist maker or with limited work-space.
Mine has slowly evolved over the years, but a simple version can be knocked up from a few pieces of scrap timber and a few nails or screws.
This is mine. It aint pretty, but it is a working tool.
The round horizontal bar sets the bevel angle and the blocks at either side are used in conjunction with the pins at the back of the blade blank to set the plunge angle and end of travel for the filing bar.
The large flat metal plate under the knife slides left or right in a snug channel to maintain an exact distance from the top bar. This helps when removing then returning the blade and when flipping it over to file the other side. Fixed points are the best way i've found to keep the bevels symmetrical.
I use a small parallel bar clamp to achieve symmetry at the plunge, as i found this a particular problem at first. The bar clamp is fitted at the desired angle, then the knife handle is clamped in the jig,on a metal block with the blade end protruding. A round file is attached to the filing bar and the plunge is cut.
30 minutes of filing later and the bevels are done.
After heat treating the blanks will be clamped back in the jig and the bevels will be finished in the same manner, but instead of a file, a flat bar with ali-oxide paper will be used. The same method can be used for sharpening using diamond hones.
Darren.
Mine has slowly evolved over the years, but a simple version can be knocked up from a few pieces of scrap timber and a few nails or screws.
This is mine. It aint pretty, but it is a working tool.
The round horizontal bar sets the bevel angle and the blocks at either side are used in conjunction with the pins at the back of the blade blank to set the plunge angle and end of travel for the filing bar.
The large flat metal plate under the knife slides left or right in a snug channel to maintain an exact distance from the top bar. This helps when removing then returning the blade and when flipping it over to file the other side. Fixed points are the best way i've found to keep the bevels symmetrical.
I use a small parallel bar clamp to achieve symmetry at the plunge, as i found this a particular problem at first. The bar clamp is fitted at the desired angle, then the knife handle is clamped in the jig,on a metal block with the blade end protruding. A round file is attached to the filing bar and the plunge is cut.
30 minutes of filing later and the bevels are done.
After heat treating the blanks will be clamped back in the jig and the bevels will be finished in the same manner, but instead of a file, a flat bar with ali-oxide paper will be used. The same method can be used for sharpening using diamond hones.
Darren.
