Vintage Hurricane Lamp Repair - Me font's full of holes

[Silverclaws2]

And so following on from both Mr Waidson's rather informative article on the restoration of archaic Hurricane lamps I got me one in the hope I could restore to find something as pleasingly useful as yes I get it about the pressure lamps as I have already restored a Tilley Guardsman but being made from brass there's not much restoration to be done

To find on paint removal followed by rust removal the font is full of holes and yes I saw the bit in the article about it probably not worth fixing unless it's something special, but it is special it's my first Vintage Hurricane lamp so I think I am giving it a go at fixing to at least know if it's worth it in future.

Thus far and with the aid of a tin smiths soldering iron, yes the kind one heats over a flame ( thanks grandpa) I have successfully layered a skin of tinman's solder over most of the holes to be set to do the same with the rest, but was wondering is there another method of dealing with these perforations, what do other's do if indeed others do instead of hoofing the thing in the skip?

The lamp is a Chalwyn Tropic I guess may be of 1960's vintage, as it has the rather square looking tube arrangement with the hanging bail inserted into holes within those tubes unlike the later Czech made lamps and it was I understand a gloss grey at some point before I took the creosote smelling stuff it was black with off, where aside from the rust holes in the font there is no reason why it shouldn't work.

 

[Glow_worm]

Collectors of hurricane lamps often use epoxy vehicle fuel tank sealants- Por-15 and many other brands. Large holes still need soldering over or patching first, but it's an excellent way to seal and strengthen the tank and prevent future corrosion.

It's also flipping expensive stuff, the inside of the tank needs very specific and thorough cleaning first, and once opened tins go off relatively quickly.

I wait until I've got a big batch of lanterns which need treatment (a dozen or two!) then break open a tin. Or team up with other people.

 

[Silverclaws2]

Collectors of hurricane lamps often use epoxy vehicle fuel tank sealants- Por-15 and many other brands. Large holes still need soldering over or patching first, but it's an excellent way to seal and strengthen the tank and prevent future corrosion.

It's also flipping expensive stuff, the inside of the tank needs very specific and thorough cleaning first, and once opened tins go off relatively quickly.

I wait until I've got a big batch of lanterns which need treatment (a dozen or two!) then break open a tin. Or team up with other people.

Yeah I'm aware of the POR 15 and the procedure involved in applying the stuff and it's cost of course, hence my asking is there any other way beyond POR-15 as there is no way I am taking that route just for one lamp or maybe even more.

But to say I am rather impressed with the soldering as it's not as hard as I expected but then I do wonder if my choosing to use my grandfather's soldering irons has made the difference given the large heat transfer surface as opposed to that on an electric soldering iron, my grandfather by trade was a tin smith for myself to marvel at him making trays and boxes for his workshop.

 

[Mesquite]

Try Seal All, it's what Wayland recommended to me who in turn picked it up from a number of latern forums.

Instructions are a bit vague but you start off by washing the tank out with acetone then seal ever hole you can find with masking tape.

Then squeeze about a quarter of a tube into a mixing cup and mix it thoroughly with a "splash" of acetone (we think that means a couple of teaspoons worth) and pour the mix into the tank once well mixed. Rotate the lantern in all directions to ensure you get a good coverage in the tank then tip the excess out and leave to dry.

Check to see if it's worked by filling with water and leaving for a little while. You can do quite large holes apparently but it might take a couple more applications to seal those.

 

[Silverclaws2]

Try Seal All, it's what Wayland recommended to me who in turn picked it up from a number of latern forums.

Instructions are a bit vague but you start off by washing the tank out with acetone then seal ever hole you can find with masking tape.

Then squeeze about a quarter of a tube into a mixing cup and mix it thoroughly with a "splash" of acetone (we think that means a couple of teaspoons worth) and pour the mix into the tank once well mixed. Rotate the lantern in all directions to ensure you get a good coverage in the tank then tip the excess out and leave to dry.

Check to see if it's worked by filling with water and leaving for a little while. You can do quite large holes apparently but it might take a couple more applications to seal those.

Yes, thank you, I came across ' seal all ' somewhere to have at the time thought given the video that mentioned it was American it would be one of those wondrous American products that may not be available in the UK, but on Amazon, I see it is.

My soldering method, I have three holes that I know about yet to do - an operation that has taken me down a wonderful path into yesteryear discovering what fluxes and what solders are the ticket for soldering 'tinplate' - not that the metal is I understand tin plated but the techniques are I gather, the same and it's working so far.

Hasten to say regardless of my soldering job that is in essence filling holes with a lead/tin alloy as opposed to plastic filler I will be now advised and discovered be treating with the tank sealer as really I don't want that stinky stuff weeping out.

 

[Glow_worm]

not that the metal is I understand tin plated

There were three main methods of hurricane lantern manufacture that were sold in reasonable numbers on the UK market:

-Tin plated steel, soldered together. The tin plating makes soldering much easier.

-Plain steel assembled dry then the whole hot dipped in tin to join and protect the entire lamp- the name 'Feuerhand' is a reference to this hot dipping process.

-Plain steel, soldered together and painted for protection, not as common.

 

[Silverclaws2]

There were three main methods of hurricane lantern manufacture that were sold in reasonable numbers on the UK market:

-Tin plated steel, soldered together. The tin plating makes soldering much easier.

-Plain steel assembled dry then the whole hot dipped in tin to join and protect the entire lamp- the name 'Feuerhand' is a reference to this hot dipping process.

-Plain steel, soldered together and painted for protection, not as common.

If any aid can be offered as to the method of construction of my lamp it would be appreciated - why not sure perhaps no reason beyond historical interest but it might inform me for repair techniques.

My lamp is a Chalwyn Tropic I assume was made pre 1970 given knowledge as to when manufacture in England ceased. Not a mark 2 but definitely proudly bearing the stamp ' Made in England '

With paint off the non rusty parts are bright and shiny and is not rusting from exposure to air to guess there is some kind of plating there but what? Tin ?

I do have a later ' Chalwyn Tropic ' of Czech manufacture bearing the date ' 02. but it is a rickety untrustworthy thing compared to the rusty oldie and yes I have fired it up but I won't be relying on it as the wick winder is goosed

 

[Glow_worm]

I believe the UK made Tropics were stamped from tin plated steel and soldered together, and then in some cases painted over the top. No idea about the Meva versions though!

Wayland's article contains a slight error- somebody else's error in fact who posted that info on Classic Pressure Lamps. it is stated the lamps were made from nickel plated steel as hot nickel dipping wasn't legal in the UK- for 'nickel' read 'tin'.

 

[Silverclaws2]

I believe the UK made Tropics were stamped from tin plated steel and soldered together, and then in some cases painted over the top. No idea about the Meva versions though!

Wayland's article contains a slight error- somebody else's error in fact who posted that info on Classic Pressure Lamps. it is stated the lamps were made from nickel plated steel as hot nickel dipping wasn't legal in the UK- for 'nickel' read 'tin'.

This later Czech made ' Chalwyn ' has some distinct Meva features about it and from what I can discern given the air tubes are loose to make it rather rickety is that the thing is folded together. I have thought to solder it up but as said the wick winder is goosed ( toothed wheels don't have teeth on a part of the circumference), so perhaps no point

 

[Mesquite]

I have thought to solder it up but as said the wick winder is goosed ( toothed wheels don't have teeth on a part of the circumference), so perhaps no point

I'd solder it as replacement winders are easily sourced. If I remember rightly ones from Feuerhands fit