Time for another axe

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bb07

Native
Feb 21, 2010
1,322
1
Rupert's Land
And why not? It's as good an addiction as any other I suppose, and better than most:rolleyes:.
If there's one thing I simply never tire of, it's chopping.
My recent interest in slightly larger projects other than spoons and bowls has me convinced that I need a carpenter axe, so I chose the Wetterlings Carpenter axe, like this one: (internet photo)
saw18CH-4.jpg


My other choice was the Gransfors carpenter axe but I decided on the Wetterlings for reasons unknown. I just like the looks of it. Prices here are almost the same for either, so money wasn't the main consideration.
I'm sure someone here must have this same axe. Thoughts please?
 

woof

Full Member
Apr 12, 2008
3,647
5
lincolnshire
Looks good to me. I'm thinking of another axe at the moment, to keep in the back of my van. Why ?, well I work as a gardener, so that's a good enough reason for me...

Rob
 

londonscrub

Tenderfoot
Apr 11, 2014
54
0
London
The optimum number of axes one should own is best expressed by the equation: no.of axes = n+1 where n is equal to the number of axes you currently own.

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Feb 17, 2012
1,061
77
Surbiton, Surrey
I used to have the Gransfors version which looks very similar and although I ended up moving it on due to lack of use it was a really good axe. The grind was even but much narrower than the SFA/Wildlife type axes and could be used a large chisel of shaving down mortises and worked well as a knife if you choked up really tight to the head.
Looking at the pick of the wetterling I cant see much difference in design and think you will do well with it.

Hamster
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,709
1,947
Mercia
And why not? It's as good an addiction as any other I suppose, and better than most:rolleyes:.
If there's one thing I simply never tire of, it's chopping.
My recent interest in slightly larger projects other than spoons and bowls has me convinced that I need a carpenter axe, so I chose the Wetterlings Carpenter axe, like this one: (internet photo)
saw18CH-4.jpg


My other choice was the Gransfors carpenter axe but I decided on the Wetterlings for reasons unknown. I just like the looks of it. Prices here are almost the same for either, so money wasn't the main consideration.
I'm sure someone here must have this same axe. Thoughts please?

I had one and moved it on - didn't find a niche in my tools. A good side axe would for hewing, but the carpenters axe was not a carving axe, nor a log shaping tool, nor a firewood tool - nor a felling tool. Neither "fish nor fowl" in my book.
 

Fraxinus

Settler
Oct 26, 2008
935
31
Canterbury
A carpenters axe was commonly used to cut wedges that were hammered into masonry joints so things like skirtings and door linings could be nailed to the wall with cut nails, they often got used for more than that by people who got proficient with them, my old college lecturer told of a west indian carpenter who routinely used one for easing doors when he was an apprentice. A lot of the old skills have been put aside due to easier, faster ways of doing the job.
It would be nice to hear of anyone who routinely uses one and what for.

Rob.
 

Grooveski

Native
Aug 9, 2005
1,707
10
53
Glasgow
I've been using a GB carpenter for a while as a carver and get on fine with it. Regularly try other folks axes at camp and have yet to come across one I prefer for roughing out bows and paddles.
Did enjoy a shot of a GB Swedish carver once but it was too heavy for me.

Shaves great. Quite a few of the common camping axes have more of a splitter profile and will either glance off or gouge in when you try shave down to a plank(which is basicaly step 1 of paddle making). Not saying you can't shave with them but the range of angle of attack is narrower and chip control definately feels vague when I try with an SFA or the likes.

It's fine for (very)light delimbing(trimming down pine and spruce trunks and I used it a fair bit for rhodie bashing) but starts suffering as the branches get bigger. It's more likely to dig in and stick where something with a fuller profile would be lifting a flake and creating a split. I reach for the saw earlier with this axe than with others.

It's pants at splitting. Saving grace is that the vast majority of my camp firewood is driftwood or deadstanding pine and those split real easy, I've had it jammed in enough hardwood logs over the years though to readily admit that it sucks.
Isn't even trying to split for the first couple of inces by which time it's losing momentum...
...then whacks into the eye widening which has barely any taper...
...and jams.
Yeah - not good.
dry_zpsd177828d.gif


For making planks/beams and roughing out new toys though it rocks. At first I was having (pretty minor)problems with the sharp ends leaving gouges it what were supposed to be flat surfaces. Over the years I've rounded the ends slightly but it's essentially still a straight axe.

AB_05.jpg
Yew_28.jpg


Paddle_02.jpg
Paddle_07.jpg


P1010778P.jpg

P1020223P.jpg
 
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bb07

Native
Feb 21, 2010
1,322
1
Rupert's Land
Grooveski, thanks very much for the information and the pics! More pics and any advice using this axe are very welcome.
 

Fraxinus

Settler
Oct 26, 2008
935
31
Canterbury
Nice work there Grooveski, you've obviously got the hang of that tool.
I just found the axe book that came with my GB SFA and it says that a carpenters axe is "In a way, it works as a combination of saw, plane and knife".
This thread has kindled a bit of an interest in this style of axe, as thinking back over some of the work I have undertaken, there are times when it could have been really useful.
Cheers bb07 for bringing this up...........now where did she hide my credit card?

Rob
 

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