yew longbow making question

[Del the Cat]

Hi guys, I'm new to this forum.
My website has tons of stuff on Yew longbows and a page on other yew bows which shows how forgiving Yew is and a nice little primitive from a stave which didn't have much heart wood.
There are some tillering videos too, which may help anyone new to bow making.
Google 'delsbows' to find my site, I also have a 'bowyers diary' which shows bows as they are being made and what I'm doing.
Del

 

[jacobkurt32]

Hi every one I've just got a few questions... i just went and cut myself a 5-6" diameter yew trunk stave (there were 3 more on this tree so didn't cut the tree down ) im kind of wondering what the best way to start is? is it better to split it into quarters? or work it with a hatchet?

i cut a good 3foot chunk of the end (was too long to start with) and split it to see how it split (thought i would make some crossbow limbs) it split in half perfectly, but when i went to quarter it, it twisted a bit i think.... i cut of the end that was a little kinked.. could this be just that? or will the whole stave be twisted? i will load some pictures of the stave What do you guys recommend i do about the potential twist? (first try)

and how big does a knot have to be to be too big?

ehm, how do you get picture on here like the other peoples ones???

/Volumes/CANON_DC/DCIM/123___08/IMG_4994.JPG
/Volumes/CANON_DC/DCIM/123___08/IMG_4995.JPG/Volumes/CANON_DC/DCIM/123___08/IMG_4995.JPG

 

[Seoras]

im kind of wondering what the best way to start is?

Hi there

Welcome to the forum.

This may help on getting started. Just download the article - http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/content.php?r=446-Carving-an-Ash-Flat-Bow-George-Aitchison

Also look here on posting pictures - http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77526

Cheers

George

 

[jacobkurt32]

here are some pictures too my last post. i couldn't figure out the picture instructions... i had no options on the popup...

anyway here they are in a link.

 

[jacobkurt32]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/photosarestories/7887676366/in/photostream/

 

[r0bot]

Why thank you for the compliment!
You won't bloody believe it but the thing just snapped in half earlier today as I drew it back. DAMM DAMM DAMM! It snapped at the point where I lopped-off the thick branch that was originally there. Check the original photos on top of page 1 to see what I mean. Weakest point of the bow I suppose

Well I'm gonna scout around the local area for a nice ash tree and try my luck with yew in the future when I get a proper trunk log.

Any tips on selecting an ideal piece of ash? What should the minimum thickness be bearing in mind I'm after an 80+ lbs war bow. Is ash similar to yew bows making in the way of heartwood/sapwood, or is ash completely different?

Any advice please guys!
Cheers all.

Why in the world would you go after 80+ lbs bow :| it will split arrows (i mean nature made you have to buy factory ones) it will not shoot true because of tension in your arms and it will have absolutely no edge over 50+ lbs bow for hunting or whatever. Also if you are inexperienced in bow making try to start with something smaller a lot easier to make not that i am an expert or something that is just my opinion.

 

[Colin.W]

Why in the world would you go after 80+ lbs bow :| it will split arrows (i mean nature made you have to buy factory ones) it will not shoot true because of tension in your arms and it will have absolutely no edge over 50+ lbs bow for hunting or whatever. Also if you are inexperienced in bow making try to start with something smaller a lot easier to make not that i am an expert or something that is just my opinion.

I would agree with starting with a lighter poundage for most practical use up to 60lb would be ample. I think a lot of people get side tracked by the reports from the archeologists reports from the mary rose. some of the bows were calculated to be in excess of 100lb draw. They were the exception not the norm. and they have worked out from the skeletal remains which people probably shot them from the deformaties to their upper bodies. most likely starting at a very young age and building up to very high poundage by their early 20's. The heavy bows were used as a first volleys to get distance rather than accuracy. apparently it upset the enemy when they start getting struck with arrows from a couple of hundred yards away

 

[dwardo]

Hi guys, I'm new to this forum.
My website has tons of stuff on Yew longbows and a page on other yew bows which shows how forgiving Yew is and a nice little primitive from a stave which didn't have much heart wood.
There are some tillering videos too, which may help anyone new to bow making.
Google 'delsbows' to find my site, I also have a 'bowyers diary' which shows bows as they are being made and what I'm doing.
Del

Hi Dell, nice to see you over here. For those that havent had a look at dells site do so, he is the king of English lonbow design and excels at using yew that most of us would just burn to make a longbow.

I would agree with starting with a lighter poundage for most practical use up to 60lb would be ample. I think a lot of people get side tracked by the reports from the archeologists reports from the mary rose. some of the bows were calculated to be in excess of 100lb draw. They were the exception not the norm. and they have worked out from the skeletal remains which people probably shot them from the deformaties to their upper bodies. most likely starting at a very young age and building up to very high poundage by their early 20's. The heavy bows were used as a first volleys to get distance rather than accuracy. apparently it upset the enemy when they start getting struck with arrows from a couple of hundred yards away

I dont shoot half as much as i build and 50lbs is more than enough for me. Yes i can shoot heavier bows but i will soon run out of steam and it wont be fun. I prefer about 45-50 ish, more than capable of taking upto moose size game acording to our hunting cousins over the pond. Think more a well designed and efficient bow rather than just draw weight.
The "Warbows" of fame were artillery weapons rather than hunting weapons as Colin says.

The short looking bits of yew look to have split fine to me and the split followed the grain. Yew is one of the few woods you can get away with a lot of spiral/prop twist and growth ring violation. If the other bit is reasonably straight then your in. Lets have a look at the good bits. Also d you want to make an English longbow type or a flat bow?

 

[ant12]

I've always had an idea to make a bow and I finally managed to get hold of a branch of yew from a local wood yard.

The branch I've got is about 7' long and 9" diameter at one end and 7" at the other. I've heard the best way to start is to split the wood down the center. Is this correct or can it be sawn? I have no idea how I'd split it. I've got an axe but hitting it smack in the center is beyond by capabilities!!

Thanks for any adivce

 

[Dobloz]

I've always had an idea to make a bow and I finally managed to get hold of a branch of yew from a local wood yard.
The branch I've got is about 7' long and 9" diameter at one end and 7" at the other. I've heard the best way to start is to split the wood down the center. Is this correct or can it be sawn? I have no idea how I'd split it. I've got an axe but hitting it smack in the center is beyond by capabilities!!
Thanks for any adivce

hi Ant, :welcome1:

my first bit of advice would be to start a new post and ask the question again because this thread began a couple of years ago, and the last reply before you was August 2012.

have you had a read of the other bow making posts in the forums?
there are many that cover this topic in some detail, as well as lots on youtube (which i'm sure you know!).
there is nothing wrong with asking again though getting ready to make stuff makes me want to ask questions and poke around for advice too!

i'm not a bowyer, but i've made a couple of sticks that propel arrows

if you've not made a bow before, i'd recommend saving the yew until you've had a practice on a couple of bits of wood -

1) aquire (from friends / neighbours etc!) or buy some *cheap* wood which has the straightest and tightest (growth rings close together) grain you can find, with no defects / twists / knots in it.
searching through timber stock can be a rewarding experience!
i bought an 8'(2.4m) long by 6"(100mm) wide by 2"(50mm) thick pine plank and split it length wise into 3x 8'x2"x2".

2) practice splitting (scrap) wood by using the axe as a wedge (tapping with a hammer allows it to be perfectly positioned), you can make and use wooden wedges to help with the progressive lenthening of the split.
the finer or smaller the angle of the wedges the easier to split the wood.

3) take some pictures when you do it, it is alot easier than trying to explain what to do with words (note to self - take some pictures next time!).

4) depending on your personality - read more - watch some videos on bow making - ask more questions - just get on with it.
oh, and make some mistakes. the more mistakes (i) make the more i learn, but i prefer to make the majority of mistakes with the less important
wood or raw materials

5) grab your chosen wood removal device(s) and begin removing wood following your design/plan/drawing/thoughts.

6) make some more mistakes....

7) repeat 3) to 6) until 8)

8) finish the stick with varnish / beeswax / paint / oil or nothing, there are many differing opinions on *ALL* aspects of *ALL* the aspects of bow making - as i'm sure you'll find out here ...irate:

seriously though, i hope you enjoy the making and using of your bow.
as i said at the beginning, i'm not a bowyer but i'm willing to be along for the ride.
it's great to be able to do, make, see, share, give and receive on forums like this with so many amazingly gifted people :You_Rock_

if there is anything i can help with i will! (and i'm sure many more people will too!)
just ask!

austin

 

[ant12]

Hi Austin,

Thanks very much for your reply. I think you're right I'm going to put the yew to one side for now! I'll make my first bow with something else, maybe ash unless you've got any other suggestions?

I've seen a youtube video showing a log split with a hammer, wedge and axe. It looks simple enough, although I'm sure it's not! I'll try it on a few pieces of scrap wood like you suggested.

I think I'm starting to get an rough overall picture of what needs to be done.

* Get the best steak of wood available (close grain and knot free).
* Split it if required
* Roughly shape it into so something a bow can be sculpted from
* Let it dry thoroughly, possibly starting outside (out the rain) for a 3-4 weeks, then indoors away from a heater. Check the weight. Once it stops getting lighter it's ready.
* Sculpt the bow, keeping about one third sapwood at the outside and two thirds heartwood for the inside - (at least for yew, not sure about ash though). Chase the grain as best as possible on both the inside and outside. Allow the bow to bend a little in the center (at least for a longbow).
* Tiller the bow to get the bow flexing symmetrically.
* Add the knocks etc

If there are any holes in my plan the please let me know. I'm sure there must a few things!

I'm not really sure how to hold the bow when working on it. I've seen various devices but I have no idea which one to try. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Ant

 

[Dobloz]

hi Ant,

If there are any holes in my plan the please let me know. I'm sure there must a few things!

i don't see any holes in your plan my friend, only learning opportunities....

I'm not really sure how to hold the bow when working on it. I've seen various devices but I have no idea which one to try. Any ideas?

i used a black and decker workmate because it is what i had....



if you get hold of a piece of wood and want to have a practice you could trace the grain around with a pencil, along the sides and the ends of the plank/stave eg



this will help visualise where to begin taking wood from.
but remember that the grain is generally not flat, so don't run along the line with a saw because you'll cut through the growth ring in the middle!

you'll understand more when you actually *do* it...

austin

 

[ant12]

Great tips. Thanks again for your help. I'll keep you posted with my progress, hopefully I'll get something done during the next few weeks. The workmate seems like a good idea. I did think of using one at some point, being portable I could take it outside if it stops raining for a few hours as well!

I'll do as you suggest trace the grain. Makes sense to make things as easy as possible.

Cheers,

Ant