Wright & Son Handmade Bushcraft Knife - opinions/review

Totumpole

Native
Jan 16, 2011
1,066
9
Cairns, Australia
Hello to all,

I felt the need to talk (or rather rant) about my Wright & Son bushcraft knife. Its a 4mm 01 Tool steel handmade in England blade with Ebony scales and "custom" sheath included. I bought it new for £140 about a year ago when I first started getting into bushcraft and had some money to throw around.

I am mainly wondering what anyone else who owns this blade under its many handle guises thinks about it. Living in London I've struggled to find the time to get away and put it through its paces, but have done so more in recent months, and the more I use it, the less impressed I am. Particularly after looking at numerous reviews on other similarly priced knives.

In my opinion these are the knives pro's and cons.

Pro's:
1. BOMBPROOF!!! Good 4mm 01 tool steel that I have dropped numerous times on various surfaces without any problems or damage. Takes a beating when battoning wood etc. Obviously this makes it pretty heavy though.
2. Nice blade design, although quite heavy in the handle and the balance point is just behind the 1st rivet.
3.Excellent price for a handmade knife. Prices start at £110 for rosewood handles.

Cons:
1. Awfull sheath!!! Ive seen the exact same sheath for sale from numerous sellers on eBay, which makes me wonder if it is really "hand made"/"custom". It had an OK friction fit initially, but this was lost very quickly, and now there is absolutely nothing stopping the knife falling out if tipped the wrong way (refer to good point number 1 - BOMBPROOF!). The sheath does however give a great fit for my mora clipper, and the plastic mora clipper sheath gives a good fit for the Wright & Sons. They have now undergone a permanent house swap!!!
2. Poor edge: 2 parts
1.I cannot seem to get a good edge on the scandi grind (as in fine enough to glide through paper). I've tried all sorts from my Japanese water stones to wet and dry paper through try to refine the edge with a really rough grit. I have only been able to get something pretty sharp by putting a secondary micro bevel on it (but see point ii below)
2.Poor edge retention. After getting it as sharp as I can the edge is dulled after an afternoon in the woods. The edge on my mora takes far more abuse and can shred paper easily after a few strokes on the strop.
3. Handle scales are poorly fitted. You can catch your finger nail on the tang all round, and there are visible gaps at some points.
4.I find the 4mm blade can be a bit unwieldy for finer work (I think in future I will got wil a 3mm blade + an axe/machete/large camp knife) – thins is not the knives fault, but rather a comment on the way 4mm blades handle in general.

All in all my main issue is the inability to get or maintain a good edge, all other issues I would happily live with. At present I am back to using the mora for the majority of activities and am saving up for an enzo trapper.

I am by no means a “knife pro” and this is only my second fixed blade knife (after my mora clipper). I seriously hope Im not being dense but dont understand how I can get such a good edge on my mora and not this.

Rant over, I'm looking forward to hearing what anyone else thinks.

Regards

Colin
 

Xunil

Settler
Jan 21, 2006
671
3
56
North East UK
www.bladesmith.co.uk
Assuming your sharpening is up to scratch (and from what you say about your Mora I'm guessing that it is) you may find that the heat treating is out of whack. This would make the knife a pig to sharpen and it wouldn't hold whatever edge you put on it under any real use.

If you have any local engineering firms nearby you might ask one of them to Rockwell test the blade for you and tell you its measurement on the C scale. If you do this you will end up with a tiny indent in a flat area of the blade so don't do it if that concerns you. I'd put money on the heat treating being off.

For O1 anything of 57 or over on the Rockwell C scale is going to take a pretty good edge and hold it for a while. 56 and under can still be sharpened up but the edge won't last anywhere near as long.

I tested a hand made bushcraft knife for a mate of mine recently and on four readings it read from the low 40's to a high of 49 on the Rockwell C scale. I can get O1 to 48 just by taking it to critical heat in the forge and allowing it to air cool, so my guess was that his particular knife hadn't been heat treated at all or, if it had, someone, somewhere, had made a serious error in the process.

Sometimes un-hardened knives can get mixed up with those that have been heat treated and they end up getting finished and sold. The heat treating process itself can fail (tempering too hot, or the quench done when the blade wasn't sufficiently hot) and, more recently, some of the O1 coming into the UK is basically crap and can't be heat treated at all, so the potential is there for material and/or process failure or human error (or all of the above).

I dislike the commonly misused word "custom" when people use it to sell knives. Custom should mean made to order, which is very different to lots of the same product being repeatedly churned out, even if they are hand made. If I forge a Damascus knife, finish it out, make a sheath for it and then offer it for sale it's hand made. If you ask me to make one for you and we discuss design features and you get to select materials and so on, that's custom. Big difference in my book...

The only other thing that comes to mind is whether the bevels are too shallow for a 4mm blade resulting in an angle that cannot be properly sharpened.

Unless you have the blade tested you won't know where you stand with regards to any possibilities it may or may not have.

Good luck with it.
 

Samon

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 24, 2011
3,970
45
Britannia!
Tried to upload some photos, but not quite sure how to go about it - any tips on this would be great.

I've heard the blades scandi grind isn't high enough..meaning the thick steel just isn't going to get sharp untill it's made thinner.

Join www.photobucket.com (takes like 2 minutes) then upload the pictures you wish to show people on the site, once that is done click on 'my albums' at the top and hover the mouse over the image and press 'IMG Code' then just paste it on your post and the image will show up. like this ...

FS1.jpg



;)
 

JAG009

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 20, 2010
2,407
2
Under your floor
I've heard the blades scandi grind isn't high enough..meaning the thick steel just isn't going to get sharp untill it's made thinner.

Join www.photobucket.com (takes like 2 minutes) then upload the pictures you wish to show people on the site, once that is done click on 'my albums' at the top and hover the mouse over the image and press 'IMG Code' then just paste it on your post and the image will show up. like this ...

FS1.jpg



;)

Is that a first go at a wood spirit then ?:lmao::lmao:
 

Samon

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 24, 2011
3,970
45
Britannia!
Take that camping with you might keep those pesky badgers away as well:evilangel:

Jason

It might keep the badgers away but it would most likely feast on my soul while I were sleeping.

Word of advice..don't stare into its empty eyes..

;)
 

Totumpole

Native
Jan 16, 2011
1,066
9
Cairns, Australia
Thank you very much, all helpful. The grind is pretty shallow, I think I will try and deepen the grind first, and if that fails get its hardness tested.
I completely agree about the custom statement (hence the "...").

Now signed up to photobucket and photos are here.........taaadah

DSC_1059.jpg


DSC_1056.jpg


DSC_1055.jpg
 

Totumpole

Native
Jan 16, 2011
1,066
9
Cairns, Australia
I have one and have nothing but negative things to say about them, get it reground if you can as a starting point!

Glad I'm not the only one. I was worried I was gonna offend numerous happy owners of said knife. The only youtube reviews i could find were from people having just got and being all happy about it (much like I was when I first got it). Not seen anyone put it through its paces in a video.
 

Xunil

Settler
Jan 21, 2006
671
3
56
North East UK
www.bladesmith.co.uk
The trouble with feedback is the expectation of the user that often underlies it and colours the facts.

Example:

Joe Bushcrafter buys 'X' endorsed knife or 'Y' endorsed axe (or a clone) and is deliriously happy with it before it even arrives, and that feeling only (usaully) increases once it has been delivered.

Many folks who buy knives and similar kit won't want to fly in the face of currently in-vogue opinion and voice disappointment or dissatisfaction.

If enough people say something is good then it is, whether it is or not, if you understand my meaning.

There are a lot of Woodlore clone knives out there that put the real Woodlore knife to shame, but there are a lot that don't as well. You rarely hear someone complain though, and I often think they may take the quiet option rather than upset the apple cart or, even worse, perhaps assume that they themselves are somehow at fault, which is a real shame.

I guess the point I am slowly meandering towards is that if you take bias out of the equation there might be a lot more folks out there telling it how it is, warts and all. Nobody wants to be seen to talk a knife down that ought (all things being equal) to live up to the hype.

Not all knives are created equal though, and there is often a huge assumption and expectation of clone knives. Some of them even live up to that level - a chap I know was very disheartened when he bought a clone knife and tried to use it. It was 5mm thick and the bevels were not ground high enough in relation to the thicker steel to give a good working edge, but he was convinced he was doing something wrong and never considered the knife itself may be the issue. When I pointed out some of the possible causes he looked through clearer eyes at his knife and saw what I could see, which was rectified for him (by me - what are friends for after all ? ;) ) and it ended up becoming a useful tool.

Good luck in finding a solution to your knife's issues - perhaps a simple regrind might be all it needs, provided the heat treating is OK. Just make sure it is done by someone who will take care not to compromise the temper - on a hardened blade you really need a slow running ceramic belt otherwise you'll go through loads of grinding belts unnecessarily and generate far more heat than is good for the blade.
 
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Kepis

Full Member
Jul 17, 2005
6,849
2,749
Sussex
I have one, bought it when i fell into the "it must look like a woodlore" trap, the thing couldn't keep an edge for toffee, then i sent it away for a regrind and now's it's an everyday user and i do mean an every day user, keeps a wicked edge now, ive had a couploe of knowledgeable knifemakers look at it and they ahve all said the same thing, it's essentially a good knife that is let down by a poor grind, and before people kick off about he large ricassaro ont hem, ther one on mine is smaller than my on my Shing & my RM Woodlore

DSCF9700sep2small.jpg


more info on my bloggy thing http://kepisbushcraft.blogspot.com/2011/02/bushcraft-knife-regrind.html
 
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