Wooden handle for Mora

[Bob]

I'm thinking about putting a wooden handle on my Mora - and wondering how to do it!!

Did a quick Search of the forums but couldn't find anything obvious pointing to any previous threads on this subject. Does anyone know if this has been broached before and - if so - where the info is?

Any signposts / info / advice gratefully received - especially on what lies beneath the existing plastic handle, how to remove it, types of wood to use and best means of attaching a new handle - thanks!

Bob

 

[OldJimbo]

You mortise the tang between two scales or blocks of wood. They're sold as knife scales. Then you fit one and drill for holes in tang - from tang side. Put on other scale and drill through. Now glue everything together and fit pins that will hold scales on too.
Mortising or cutting the hollow for the tang can be done with chisels - or you can get neat little routers for a dremel tool. Just make sure that you have the right size bolts or pins. Bolts will have to be recessed so more drilling. A good solution is to get brass tubing from hobby supply store. Glued into place it will hold everything and is light.
Best to sketch final shape and position of tang on wood before putting together - to make shaping easier.
I'm hoping this pic isn't too big:

 

[rapidboy]

Someone posted a pic quite recently of a rehandled Mora and it looked great.
Can't remember where is was .
I have a stainless version that has just about reached the end of the road so i will try to make some time to remove the plastic handle and post some pic's.


rb

 

[Graham_S]

so who has access to an x-ray machine??

 

[simonsays]

so who has access to an x-ray machine??

*cough*


Simon

 

[riddleofsteel]

I bought one of the Frost Mora Knives from Woodcrafters. Nice blade for a killer price but a handle like a chisel.
I had some quilted maple and decided to make a handle for it. I took two pieces of the board and drew out the tang area on the board. Then I used a series of small chisels and exacto knives to remove the wood until the tang fit flush into the board. Do not worry about exact fit here as the glue will fill small places.
When the blade tang fits insert the blade tang, apply epoxy glue and clamp the two handle sides together. When the handle dries wrap the blade in heavy tape and go to the sander. I shaped mine as a utility knife. As a result it looks more like a potato with finger grooves than a conventional knife but it is superbly comfortable.
After sanding to a working smooth finish I applied some Minwax stain to bring out the quilted maple highlights and sealed it with some dull lacquer.
The result is a fully functional knife with laminated stainless blade and a very comfortable and safe grip all for less than $12.50 US.

Oh yes....... I am an X-ray tech by trade and I do have access to a digital X-ray setup. If you have a particular request I will try to accomodate you.

 

[rapidboy]

As you can see my work knife has been sharpened once or twice

 

[Daniel]

If you were to now put a wooden handle on that blade RB, with such a small part in the wood (the tang is it??) would it actually hold in there strong enough?? Would you need to drill a hole in the metal and the wood and use a pin to hold the handle in place?

Sorry if this is a stupid question but I'm new to all this knife making business, and am intested in doing this to my mora...

Cheers,
Dan

 

[rapidboy]

I would cut a few small nicks with a dremmel and rough it up to give the epoxy a really good grip and a pin would help for sure.
A longer tang would be better but a short tang will work as long as you dont expect too much from it.
I wouldnt worry too much about it being strong enough as you would probably bend the blade or split the handle before the blade and handle come apart from use.
It is a source for a cheap blade but you cana;so buy cheap blades from BRISA or Attleborough Accessories that have longer tangs and would be better project blades.


rb

 

[Daniel]

Cheers RB I'll check those websites out!

 

[Brixton]

or Attleborough Accessories that have longer tangs and would be better project blades.


rb

I had a look at Attleborough Accessories
http://www.attacc.com/acatalog/Attleborough_Accessories_Knife_Making.html
A bewildering choice of blades.
Which would the jury vote for?

I currently have a Frost Mora with an oh so lovely green plastic handle and a knife ( the Deluxe 4.5" knife) I bought from Countrytrader.co.uk which only cost £20.00
Bought it for the word deluxe!
Problem is after I had attacked it with an angle grinder so I wouldn't chafe me poor thumb when using the firesteel I found it was bent. Only a few degrees but now I've spotted it it's irritating.

 

[leon-1]

I had a look at Attleborough Accessories
http://www.attacc.com/acatalog/Attleborough_Accessories_Knife_Making.html
A bewildering choice of blades.
Which would the jury vote for?

I currently have a Frost Mora with an oh so lovely green plastic handle and a knife ( the Deluxe 4.5" knife) I bought from Countrytrader.co.uk which only cost £20.00
Bought it for the word deluxe!
Problem is after I had attacked it with an angle grinder so I wouldn't chafe me poor thumb when using the firesteel I found it was bent. Only a few degrees but now I've spotted it it's irritating.

Brixton which specific blades were you looking at??

This is one of the 95mm Lauri PT blades that I put together

The Lauri blades are pretty cheap, but the carbon and PT blades can rust quite heavilly so it may be worth looking at a stainless version (I am currently working on a 77mm version of this blade), I hope this will be of some use to you, Leon

 

[Brixton]

The
BAMSEN stainless 4.6"
Looked good to me but am hoping for some advice as I am a very inexperienced chap in this game.

 

[rapidboy]

Looks a bit big to me ,the stainless Jervin looks good or the "BRUSLETTO DIY KNIFEMAKING KIT" for £30.00 with everything you need looks like a bargain.

rb

 

[leon-1]

Fair statement rb, the brusletto's are very good little knives and will last a fair old while, unfortunately they are not very good with a firesteel

 

[wingstoo]

Not an X-ray but the tang...

LS