woodburning stove in shed

[Gill]

i have my woodburning stove for my tipi sitting in my shed doing nothing ,and with the cold months looming it just seems to be begging to get lit.this makes sense as i spend a bit of time in the shed and it will keep andy dampness out.my question is what should i use to exit the flue pipe out the shed roof or wall and keeping a watertight seal at the same time any suggestions.?

 

[Neumo]

Sounds like it's doable. From what I read elsewhere you need to make sure it's gets enough air from outside as they can suck out all the air from a confined space which may be a problem. A Carbon Monoxide detector would also probably be a wise move. I am sure a stove expert will be along in a bit to tell you the finer points as I am no expert.

 

[Scott Of The Llandow]

Hi,if you can exit the flue pipe thru the the wall of the structure the less of the chance of leakage,only go thru the roof if no other options are avialble.

cc
Sott

 

[Buckshot]

We have a wood burner in our conservatory and went through the wall rather than roof

If you were to cut the hole to give an inch gap around the flue you could then fill that with the metal type insulating tape that plumbers use to stick lagging together on industrial heating systems
That would stop drafts but give enough of a gap to stop the burning around the hole!

Mark

 

[HillBill]

I built a stove for under our carport. Chimney going straight up through the roof.

To stop leaks i made a large top hat for the chimney that extends 3" each side of the hole. That stops any rain coming in from above, then built up some sealer around the outside of the hold to stop water running in from the roof itself. There is an inch gap between the chimney and the roof material.

 

[Westnorfolk]

I have fitted a wood stove to my portacabin, where the pipe goes through the roof i used insulated pipe

http://www.fluestore.com/index.php?page=info&keywords=Chimney%20Systems|All%20Fuels%20DP|150mm|Straight%20Length%20460mm&grp=2&subgrp=1&diam=150&leaf=1&all=ALL&code=42-150-011

waterproofed with a silicone flashing

http://www.fluestore.com/index.php?page=groups&keywords=Masterflash%20LOW|Masterflash%20HIGH&grp=5&subgrp=4&diam=

and topped with a down draft cowl

http://www.fluestore.com/index.php?page=info&keywords=Rotating%20AD|Static%20AD%20(General)|0mm|Ultimate%20Anti-downdraught%20Cowl&grp=4&subgrp=2&diam=0&leaf=1&all=ALL&code=9-MIC

the hole in the roof was cut slightly larger and the pipe held and clamped with these two things

http://www.fluestore.com/index.php?page=info&keywords=Chimney%20Systems|All%20Fuels%20DP|150mm|Firestop%20Plate%20(stainless%20steel)&grp=2&subgrp=1&diam=150&leaf=1&all=ALL&code=42-150-070
http://www.fluestore.com/index.php?page=info&keywords=Chimney%20Systems|All%20Fuels%20DP|150mm|Adj%20Wall%20Support%20100-250mm%20c/w%20Locking%20Band%20(Cuttable)&grp=2&subgrp=1&diam=150&leaf=1&all=ALL&code=42-150-053

you use the clamping bracket so the weight of the chimney is not held on the stove. the bottom 500mm can be normal stove pipe as long as you use an adaptor (make sure its the right way up so all tars run back into the stove and not dribble outside the pipe.

with most installations the cost of the chimney will be more than the stove and to follow building regs you need to download the info

http://www.happystoves.co.uk/73_fireplace_articles/fitting_a_stove.html
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove_help_and_advice.html
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove_building_regulations.html
http://www.woodburnerwarehouse.co.uk/building_regualtions_for_stoves.phtml
http://www.firesonline.co.uk/acatalog/Stove-Building-Regulations.html

remember though... i am a smallholder not a stove fitter but these things have worked for me, i have a hunter herald 8 as the only heating for my house and in my portacabin i have an Element cast iron stove. Spend the money on the chimney and get a cheaper fire. the stove box is easy to service and weld up if you get second hand but quite a lot of the chimney is out of sight.

Dave