Wood jewel puukko and leuku blades

Jun 5, 2013
16
0
United Kingdom
Hi all,

I have been looking at the wood jewel finnish wilderness puukko and leuku blades, does anybody have any experience with these tools. I prefer the all curly birch handled one rather than the antler version. I have also heard that some of them come with a secondary micro bevel, is this true?
https://www.google.co.uk/search?gs_...weedforge.com%2FWoodJewelCatalog.html;614;369
Sorry again for all the questions but I'm just getting into bushcraft.

Thank you,

Alex:)
 

Frederick89

Tenderfoot
Feb 15, 2010
84
0
Modena, Italy
As for many mass produced finnish knives the blades come from Lauri Metalli Oy, a Kauhava factory founded in 1928.
These blades are stamped from Krupp 80 CrV 2 carbon steel and do have a secondary bevel out from the factory, not even that small. The 80 CrV 2 is by the way a nice steel to work with, holding a decent edge and being very easily to sharpen.

Anyway a microbevel is put for adding stenght to the edge and, if properly made, it doesn't effects cutting performances. In Finland is actually not so uncommon to find also on handforged blades tiny microbevels or even convexed cutting edges.

Speaking of factory made puukkos and leukus, they are honest working tools, just don'r expect incredible fit and finish. I have used some of them (Eräpuu, Kauhavan Puukkopaja, Paaso Puukot, Ahti, Wood Jewel) before switching to smith's made so I'd suggest to to take a deeper look around.

Among the ones I tried I liked more Ahti and Puukkopaja ones since they felt more right in my hand.
 
Jun 5, 2013
16
0
United Kingdom
Thanks for you post mate, I was really useful:).

The trouble for me with the micro bevel, is sharpening. I use japanese waterstones but I cannot keep an angle very well, with my mora I just lay the blade flat on the big scandi bevel and I'm away. Do you think that the micro bevel will hinder me when using waterstones?


As for fit and finish, I am happy to do some sanding and oiling, if anything, it will make it mine. I am thinking about the full curly birch one so sanding will not be a problem.
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I like the look of the ahti's but I can't find anywhere in the uk that sells them:(.

Thank you,

Alex.
 

Frederick89

Tenderfoot
Feb 15, 2010
84
0
Modena, Italy
Well, keeping the angle is just a matter of training, nothing that can't be achieved. The microbevel might be simplier since you have to sharpen only a slim strip of steel and, also, it will slow down the blade wearing process: sharpening all the bevel every time takes away a big load of material and the blade will get "eaten out" sooner or later.

Speaking of sharpening I've come to use few different methods, depending on the level of sharpening I have to give. Usually I strop the blade after use, without any compound, just to polish it and get the original bite back.
If there is some minor dent or rolling I give it a touch with a cheramic rod, few strokes are usually enough. Then a bit of stropping.
I use water stones only when a massive sharpening session is needed. For this I have a finnish water stone with fine grain.

If you'll avoid to let your knife getting blunt you won't have to put much effort in sharpening.

Have a good time with the Wood Jewel, but if you'll ever venture into really handmade finnish puukkos you'll find an all new world. ;)
 

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