Which Frosts Mora knife for novice?

[Paul_B]

I have always had an interest in bushcraft (or survival as it once was called) but not had the time or money to go on courses to learn. Now I have some knowledge but limited equipment (edged bladewise I mean). I am looking at getting a simple introductory blade that would last while I learn and hopefully get more interested / into the field. This basically means the Frosts Mora knives. My query is about the different models, what is the difference and which is best for my use? Remember I am a novice and have little knowledge of scandi grinds, concave / convex edges, etc. I have metallugry knowledge but not how the grades relate to use. Which model is best for novices? BTW I do know how to keep a reasonably good edge, not a perfect edge just a servicable edge.

Alternatively, is there anything better for similar prices? If I end up being too busy doing other things I don't want to waste money on an unused £65-100 knife.

 

[Tadpole]

I have always had an interest in bushcraft (or survival as it once was called) but not had the time or money to go on courses to learn. Now I have some knowledge but limited equipment (edged bladewise I mean). I am looking at getting a simple introductory blade that would last while I learn and hopefully get more interested / into the field. This basically means the Frosts Mora knives. My query is about the different models, what is the difference and which is best for my use? Remember I am a novice and have little knowledge of scandi grinds, concave / convex edges, etc. I have metallugry knowledge but not how the grades relate to use. Which model is best for novices? BTW I do know how to keep a reasonably good edge, not a perfect edge just a servicable edge.

Alternatively, is there anything better for similar prices? If I end up being too busy doing other things I don't want to waste money on an unused £65-100 knife.

I'd get two, a Carbon steel clipper and a 740 (or 760). (both in carbon steel) you'd not need another knife, easy to sharpen and keep sharp. Last a life time. And when you get used to using the you can cut off the finger guard.

 

[leon-1]

I agree with pretty much everything that Tadpole said, I would say though that frosts mora don't just stop at the likes of the clipper and the 760. If you can get to handle a mora 2010 as it's a bit of the best of both worlds.

If you like wooden handles and the frosts shape blade and are happy to work without a gaurd look at getting a frosts mora classic or if you want a gaurd possibly the frosts mora classic safe (it has a gaurd).

There is a lot of choice out there, but the one thing to remember is it doesn't matter what we say it's what you are happy with. If you are comfortable with the knife and it does what you require of it then it's the knife for you.

 

[robin wood]

They are all good they are all cheap they will all do what you want.

 

[Tony]

I have to agree with everyone else they're great knives and at the prices they are you can try a few before you settle down on one type. Saying that they've just taken a big jump in price so if you can find some old stock jump on it and get your knife.

 

[rapidboy]

Any of them are great, not a huge difference betweens the various models in terms of blade shape but the handles are quite different in hand.

For the same sort of money you can buy something from Cold Steel which look nice but they are not in the same league

 

[sandbender]

If you can rustle up £40 you could afford a new Mora Miki and one of rapidboy's excellent kydex sheaths.

See this thread.

 

[Tony]

A good guide would be that Mors Kochanski uses the wooden handled one at the bottom of Rapidboys 1st picture and he does some serious stuff with it

 

[Paul_B]

Looked at Rapidboy's sheaths. WOW! Some of them look like a difficult carry position to justify to the boys in blue in the UK. I mean the one fixed horizontally round the back just above your belt. Concealed and very rapidly accessed, just don't put it there until miles from civilisation. Good concept though.

I noticed there is one set-up with the sheath held upside down I take it there is good security for the knife? Do you do sheaths for other Mora Frost knives? Do they come with a fire steel holder as it looks like there is one in the thread sand bender linked to?

Please let us know if you are able to offer more knife and sheath deals in the future.

 

[sandbender]

I noticed there is one set-up with the sheath held upside down I take it there is good security for the knife?

Yes, it is very secure, I have been wearing one around my neck for a few weeks now and I am confident that it won't accidentally fall out.

 

[Paul_B]

I was wondering about rescue knives for kayaking and wondered if Mora do any such thing. As they produce good quality knives at reasonable prices it might be good to have one for my kayaking set-up. These are usually with a flat tip (screwdriver tip). Anyone know about these? Not really bushcraft but there seems to be some very knowledgable knife experts on here. The reason for blunt end is to minimise risk for resuce applications such as cutting people free in pinned situations. Imagine trying to stick the knife close to someone's body and sawing through a strap to find you have just caused a loss of the victims claret.

BTW reckon I will just get the cheapest Mora for now and wait to see what I learn about knives in its use. They used to be about £6 to £11 now they seem to be £10 upwards (a few at about £25!. Are the 2000 and 2010 really that much better than say a 911 quicksnap or a 840/940 clipper?

 

[Hoodoo]

They make a mora with a serrated edge. You could grind the tip off. I'm not a fan of serrated knives but they do have their application and I think a good one is for canoeing, rafting and kayaking.

They call it a rope knife.

I do wonder, though, how aggressive the serrations are. Try it and give us a report, eh?

 

[sandbender]

"... The reason for blunt end is to minimise risk for resuce applications such as cutting people free in pinned situations. Imagine trying to stick the knife close to someone's body and sawing through a strap to find you have just caused a loss of the victims claret..."

Wouldn't a rescue hook be simpler? keep the Mora in your bag until you need to make feather sticks on the shore.

Additionally a rescue hook will also probably attract less attention. (click back a page on the above link for a diverse range of rescue tools).

 

[spamel]

All iof the Mora knives will do the job. To be fair, they're all as good as each other, it's where the steels differ that a difference is noted. I have a triflex model, I gave my carbon steel one to my brother. I wish I'd kept the CS version, I don't like the triflex at all! Strangely enough, I love other laminated blades, just not this one!

 

[Paul_B]

Sandbender - Hooks are a good idea for straps but not plastic kayaks (serrated edges are best) when trapped in one bending around a rock by the force of the water. That has happened to a member of a group I was in, luckily they managed to painfully get out. The kayak didn't fare too well though. Probably the most common use for rescue knives in kayaking is to cut through obstructions in the river. For example if a small overhanging branch prevents access to a play wave a serrated knife has been known to miraculously and of its own accord cut through said branch. Definitely not at the hand of a kayaker as we would never do that! ;-D

I guess a folding saw would do better for most applications. I know a lot of kayak shops do sell such items. Although not sure of the quality, bushcraft ones are probably more robust. I guess a truly equiped kayaker should have both a knife and a folding saw. If I get both of these then I would also have them for other activities like bushcraft applications. Now what justification is there for a kayaking axe?

The kayaking knife is not too important as I will need more practice to get back to the old skill level that needed such a knife. Returning after a long break means I have a long way to go to get back there.

 

[Bravo4]

Hi Paul,
I've got this little rope/rescue knife for river work:
http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=CR2391

Terrible for bushcrafty stuff but it's cheap and lightweight, has an excellent retention system, serrated edge, blunt tip.

 

[rapidboy]

Looked at Rapidboy's sheaths. WOW! Some of them look like a difficult carry position to justify to the boys in blue in the UK. I mean the one fixed horizontally round the back just above your belt. Concealed and very rapidly accessed, just don't put it there until miles from civilisation. Good concept though.

I noticed there is one set-up with the sheath held upside down I take it there is good security for the knife? Do you do sheaths for other Mora Frost knives? Do they come with a fire steel holder as it looks like there is one in the thread sand bender linked to?

Please let us know if you are able to offer more knife and sheath deals in the future.

My modular sheath system was designed to allow you to reconfigure the sheath for different carry options to suit different activities / environments and in the case of the clipper version it also allows you to change the knife depending on the task in hand.

All the clippers fit the same sheath so you can build the sheath with a 25mm strap loop and use a serrated stainless clipper in your canoe.
Rebuild the sheath with a firesteel holder and regular belt loop and add a carbon clipper for a bushcraft weekend.
Use the sheath body only tucked in your game bag with a stainless plain edge clipper for gutting rabbits. etc. etc.

I don't remember posting any pics of a clipper "horizontally round the back just above your belt" ?

This clipper ....

.... and this Miki

are both shown on the front and there should be no problem with the boys in blue if you can provide good reason for it, i carry like this when I'm shooting from a vehicle - the knife doesn't catch on the seat belt getting in and out and doesn't dig into the seat.

With a rucksack wearing a knife on your belt in a traditional vertical carry position can be a problem so again this carry method can be advantageous.



Im not a big fan of "across the back" carry, it's simply not very safe to draw or resheathe a knife behind your back.
The only kydex sheath i made specifically for across the back carry was long enough to resheath relatively safely.
Across the back is the most comfortable way to carry this knife simple because it's too long for regular vertical belt carry and too heavy for any other carry position.

I do like "discrete carry", this is pretty good and very safe in use.
The knife is certainly not concealed but it doesn't draw attention to itself.

As for the inverted carry- the knives are held very securely and it's one of the main advantages that kydex has over leather.

I make the sheath systems for different knives - Fallknives are always popular, most of the Frosts / Mora's but i also make them for custom knives as well.

I make firesteel holders for some, others are tailored for specific duties to the customers requirements like this one made for a medics pack which will hopefully serve him well in Afghanistan.

 

[Asa Samuel]

If I had £40 to spare I'd be snapping your hand off for one of those kydex sheaths.

 

[welshwhit]

All I can say about Rapidboys work is . . . superb

I have one of his clipper sheaths and I use it alot, its left as a neck carry when I stalk, I have used some of the other options to attach it to my gunbag.

After using it for a good few weeks now, I can also say that these knives won't go any where out of these sheaths unless you choose so!

They are spot on!

Drew

 

[Caveman1]

rapidboy, do you make these sheaths, and are they for sale. I cant find any website URL on this thread. I am looking to purchase one for my mora 840