Wetterlings

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Personally, I like the Fallkniven DC4 combination ceramic/diamond stone on axes ...

http://www.tregor.co.uk/dc4.html

Great product that I can highly recommend! Be careful though, I've seen the DC4 stone go for a LOT more than what it's listed for on that site!
 
I will probably get crucified for this, but if you go to the Axminster tooling site you can pick up a full sized combination waterstone, they have a 250/1000 grit stone for less than a tenner.

It's possible to cut one of these stones down in size so you have a number of field stones (at least two). The others will be quick to point out that they are heavier than the likes of the DC4, but they have two very good grits and may well be worth looking at. Here's the link

http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=KING8C1

You will also come across a 1000/6000 grit combination stone for probably the cheapest that i have seen one, hope it comes in handy, Leon.
 
The DC4 does appear popular but to be honest I still use traditional stones to sharpen my axes.

The GB sharpenening stone (looks like an ice hockey puck) is good but a little heavy.

I use an old pocket Arkansas stone (for my knife too) in the field - lubricated with good old spit.

In base camp or home I use the same waterstones as I use for my knives.

Remember - K.I.S.S!
 
I've just got a GB 'puck' from Rob on BB.
Personally I don't think the weight is an issue as it's not that heavy (Wayne did weigh his and give the weight on another thread). It's a fantastic piece of kit as far as I'm concerned. Just like the Wetterlings.
I prefer to keep my DC4 for my Opinel and Puuku.
 
Your right Martin it isnt THAT heavey but it, combined with all the other bits and pieces that arent that heavy soon becomes heavy!

As I have said it is a good stone and I have used it on my knives too - but my Arkansas stone is lighter and just as good for field use - plus more to the point it is also more of an old friend these days.

As with all things its personal choice - as long as you dont start having to bath in he blood of a virgin on a full moon to make sure your axe is sharp I say good luck to you.

Oh and KISS is keep it simple stupid - i.e in this instance - for use in the field choose a stone that you can carry, isnt likely to brake and can be lubricated by water or spit.
 
I've got a waterstone from axminster and I cut it down. Cut about a third off the end leaving a large bit for home and a small bit for my GB and as a field stone. Pleased with the result but having said that I might get a gransfors 'puck' from rob on ebay as well

Bill
 
I haven't used a stone on an axe in quite awhile. I prefer a small wooden block with a piece of mousepad glued to it and some sandpaper mounted on it. This will give you a nice convex edge to your Wetterling.

hhonewwetterling.jpg
 
Hoodoo your Wetterlings handle looks alot healthier than mine and I've only had mine a few weeks, do you treat it with anything?
 
Hoodoo, I plan on replacing a Swedish military axe that was stolen, with one of Wetterlings large hunter axes and may as well learn from those in the know, how to keep a good edge on it. Do you have a site that can lead the less talented folks, like me, through the steps of your sharpening process?
 
RovingArcher said:
Hoodoo, I plan on replacing a Swedish military axe that was stolen, with one of Wetterlings large hunter axes and may as well learn from those in the know, how to keep a good edge on it. Do you have a site that can lead the less talented folks, like me, through the steps of your sharpening process?


I'd be interested in such a site/tutorial aswell as this method is obviously alot cheaper than stones and if Hoodoo has been using it then I think it's safe to say that it's effective.
 
I think the "Hoodoo's Cache" link in his sig has some valuable info I've used the mousemat method and it does give a nice edge to an axe and a small bit of 2X1 timber in your pack with some glued on weighs nothing :wink:
 

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