using mora with firesteel

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Dirac

Tenderfoot
Jun 18, 2011
53
0
Abbotsbury
Apologies if this is in the incorrect forum/subforum.

I'm trying to learn how to get sparks with my firesteel using the back of my Mora knife (thanks for recommending it to me, it's a great knife).

I've watched a vid where Ray Mears shows how to do it, and makes it look really easy. I simply can't get any shavings, let alone sparks using this technique. I also am very close to cutting my right index finger with the front of the knife. Does anyone know if it's possible with this knife?

MG Clipper
http://www.raymears.com/Bushcraft_Product/399-Morakniv-Companion-MG-Clipper-Knife

Thanks in advance
 

copper_head

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 22, 2006
4,261
1
Hull
Well first what sort of fire steel you got, some are better than others.
My technique is to keep the blade still and draw back the steel...
Might be worth taking a file to the back of the blade to get a bit more 'action'.
 

Dirac

Tenderfoot
Jun 18, 2011
53
0
Abbotsbury
Thanks for the speedy advice!

Hmm, I've had the firesteel for a while, all I know is it's meant to be Sweedish? With green handle and a striker that has three teeth on either side...The metal feels pretty hard and never really gives that many sparks at the best of times, could be that.
Any recommendations of good firesteels?
 

copper_head

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 22, 2006
4,261
1
Hull
Sounds like a Light My Fire jobbie, there not bad but the best IMO are the Woodlore Fireflash . Im sure someone on here can tell you other places to buy them but I got mine on a woodlore course 14 years a go and its still going strong.
 

mountainm

Bushcrafter through and through
Jan 12, 2011
9,990
12
Selby
www.mikemountain.co.uk
Thanks for the speedy advice!

Hmm, I've had the firesteel for a while, all I know is it's meant to be Sweedish? With green handle and a striker that has three teeth on either side...The metal feels pretty hard and never really gives that many sparks at the best of times, could be that.
Any recommendations of good firesteels?

It may be one of the tougher kind that give fewer, but hotter, longer lasting sparks.
 

Dirac

Tenderfoot
Jun 18, 2011
53
0
Abbotsbury
Went down to the shed and got the bench grinder on the back edge to give it a bit of a burr. It made a difference but the steel still feels really hard and yields no sparks! As it appears, the Ray Mears firesteel is the best (I'm a lot of people's opinions, I know you can't quantify 'best' haha)

On the woodlore website there are only the blank firesteels in stock. Are they the same as the one with the green handle?

Thanks
 

Teepee

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 15, 2010
4,115
5
Northamptonshire
I was struggling to get a spark off Going Gear ferro rods. I flatted the spine of the Mora down as suggested on here, leaving a sharper edge.

It did the trick for me, big globs of burning metal now fly off much easier.
 

rancid badger

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Went down to the shed and got the bench grinder on the back edge to give it a bit of a burr. It made a difference but the steel still feels really hard and yields no sparks! As it appears, the Ray Mears firesteel is the best (I'm a lot of people's opinions, I know you can't quantify 'best' haha)

On the woodlore website there are only the blank firesteels in stock. Are they the same as the one with the green handle?

Thanks

Yes they are or at least they said they were when I last bought a few.(apx 3 years ago I think:confused:)

I'd suggest your best bet is to phone or e-mail woodlore and ask the question direct, they might well have changed since I last stocked up:bluThinki

If they are the same, "fireflash" type, then they are the best steels I've come across so far.

cheers

Steve
 

Dirac

Tenderfoot
Jun 18, 2011
53
0
Abbotsbury
Yes they are or at least they said they were when I last bought a few.(apx 3 years ago I think:confused:)

I'd suggest your best bet is to phone or e-mail woodlore and ask the question direct, they might well have changed since I last stocked up:bluThinki

If they are the same, "fireflash" type, then they are the best steels I've come across so far.

cheers

Steve

Thanks for the information and advice, I'll give them a call tomorrow morning.
What do you guys use for handles?
 

Retired Member southey

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Jun 4, 2006
11,098
13
your house!
Its your knife, you need a good sharp edge on the spine, nice and squareish if you run your knife down the the ferro and the spine just runs over it, it need fileing, stick it in a vice and use a file, rather than ruin the temper with a grinder. Have fun chap.
 

rg598

Native
Its your knife, you need a good sharp edge on the spine, nice and squareish if you run your knife down the the ferro and the spine just runs over it, it need fileing, stick it in a vice and use a file, rather than ruin the temper with a grinder. Have fun chap.

Exactly that. If you are not sure about the fire steel, take a knife you don't particularly like, and try to get sparks by using the cutting edge. If that works, then the issue is the knife-follow the above instructions.
 
LMF, Fireflas, Primus all work great as a fire steel. The best...pffff personal and experience....

Anyway, I love Mora's but they do not make the best fire steel strikers/scrapers with the shoulders of the blade. They are too rounded. Roughing them up might work (for a while) but it was the one thing I really disliked about them.

Use the sharp end and sharpen that after use, use a separate scraper (I don't, since I do not want to carry extra stuff that I can loose too) or use a different knife ;-). The square spine of a Hultafors works great out of the box btw....

Grtz Johan
 

Dirac

Tenderfoot
Jun 18, 2011
53
0
Abbotsbury
Its your knife, you need a good sharp edge on the spine, nice and squareish if you run your knife down the the ferro and the spine just runs over it, it need fileing, stick it in a vice and use a file, rather than ruin the temper with a grinder. Have fun chap.
I can actually get a shower of sparks using the back of the knife after filing it down (it was already flat so only needed roughing up!). The problem is that I have to really strike the steel, and that sends the sparks all over the place and not on to my tinder because it is in no way controllable! Going to have some more practice today, if I have any luck I'll let you all know.

thanks for all the advice so far!
 

Retired Member southey

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Jun 4, 2006
11,098
13
your house!
Are you hitting the ferro rod rather than sliding( albeit with force in a slicing style) the spine of the knife down the rod, or holding the blade still and drawing the rod back? no need to hit the knife against the rod matey look here around 4 mins in for what I mean,

[video=youtube;eVcHWoT2jmE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVcHWoT2jmE&feature=re lated[/video]
 

Dirac

Tenderfoot
Jun 18, 2011
53
0
Abbotsbury
Are you hitting the ferro rod rather than sliding( albeit with force in a slicing style) the spine of the knife down the rod, or holding the blade still and drawing the rod back? no need to hit the knife against the rod matey look here around 4 mins in for what I mean,

[video=youtube;eVcHWoT2jmE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVcHWoT2jmE&feature=re lated[/video]
Ahh the master fire maker!! That's what I'm trying to do, I saw this video and am attempting to copy his technique. At the moment I start by placing the back edge of the knife on the steel and sliding down it. What I'm doing at the moment is kind of a mix, pulling the steel back and pushing the blade forward (if that makes sense?). I have to do it really fast to get any sparks, rather than just shaving it! How Ray does it with such a small part of the steel is mad, he must have seriously strong hands!
 

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